Tall skinnies / Split rims

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tomcolins

tomcolins

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 17, 2008
Threads
36
Messages
185
Location
Marfa, Texas
So I have been fooling around with split rims for a year or so now, running them on my '80 long bed. Partly I dig the old school LC thing and partly I like the ability to mount tires myself and patch easily in the field. Just got a brand new set of Power Kings off of an imported truck. Almost too big for the truck but almost too badass to take off. I'm posting some picks, mostly as porn, but feel free to weigh in
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very nice truck wheels and tires . what size tires are those . i would like to find that set up for my 85 4runner
 
They are old bias ply conventional sized, eg simply 7.50 x 16. They are mounted on a 5.5 in steel split rim. There is no real way to predict sidewall height that I know of with that sizing style though I can say that the more aggressive the tread, the taller the tire ( as a general rule of thumb ).

There is no real equivalent in modern radial tire sizing. The 7.50 is the "width" of the tire but I dont think it's the true section width but rather the width at the tread. The section is probably closer to 8" or so.

If it were sized with an aspect ratio it'd probably be something like 205/100/16 as the sidewall is pretty much as tall or taller than the tread. Trailer tires and some tractor tires are still sized in this way.
 
Nice truck. I love tall skinies. Looks bad ass. Plus they are better in wet and snow, except mud. I will go this way when I buy new tires... for both my LC and pickup.

I guess you really need to know your way around the splits; have heard they can be quite dangerous. I like the look of them. Though don't see the practicality of them with tubeless tires... plugging up tires is so easy. However, for a wheeling vehicle or long distance off road adventure vehicle, I can really see the advantage.
 
There seems to be a lot of concern about spilt rims and their safety. As far is I have been able to discern, the Toyota style "split rim" is really more of a "locking rim" rather than an old-school two piece wheel.

There are many variants I will try to post some pics when I can get home to my computer but they range from old-style semi wheels to tractor tires, to military and civilian trucks.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6qoCRxl-o3g/TlUlmmMCjuI/AAAAAAAAcJg/31PEm3VDzWs/IMG_7238.JPG

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/images/splitrim2.JPG

TheToyota wheels work in a slightly different way.

There is a ring that locks into the wheel. The wheel is all one piece. When removed, the locking ring allows the tire/tube combo to be lifted off of the wheel.

The danger is that if the locking ring isn't seated properly the growing pressure in the tire/tube will force the ring off at high velocity. Supposedly taking your face with it

On many types of split rims I suspect a proper seat is harder to spot but with the lock-ring type, it seems pretty clear when it ain't right. I still stay pretty clear of the tire when inflating it. But it seems safe enough.

I do spend a lot of time exploring the back country and aside from the novelty, I do think its helpful to be able to break the bead and re-set the bead without a high pressure burst of air (aqua-net notwithstanding). Also, should the tire need to come off the rim for repair, it's much simpler. Tubes and patches are pretty easy to store

I'm new to this set up too but I'm getting used to it and working out the +\- of it.
 
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