Taking my 60 for a good long drive (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter WideAngleWandering
- Start date
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surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Full post with links and larger pics (see it in all it's glory): http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/11/mike-sky-ranch-now-with-less-axle-damage.html
2012-09-11
From Rancho Coyote Heading North by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
This morning I packed up the truck under a clear blue sky with the clouds racing overhead, emphasizing the effect of altitude on one's perspective. This might have been a good night for stargazing in the park but after three days I was ready to move on.
I set off at 9AM, a pretty early start for me, after first tracking down a ranger to open the gate and let me out. The view was not too different from what you might see on Tioga Pass in California, but steeper and with more rocks washed out over the pavement, including one new boulder that would surely take heavy equipment to clear.
My goal for the day was to finally cross the trail from the observatory road to MX-3 via Rancho El Coyote and Mike's Sky Ranch, ending in San Felipe. The only other way was a long loop west to MX-1, north to MX-3, east to MX-5 and south to San Felipe.
As I drove down the observatory road, I couldn't see the turn-off to Rancho El Coyote so I stopped at Rancho Meling for advice. The owner looked up and asked, "Are you alone?"
Yes, I said, and pointed at Betsy, but I can make it.
"I wouldn't recommend it. That road is pretty bad."
I almost made it once before, I told him.
"Did you get over the hill?"
Yep.
He shook his head and knelt in the dirt, drawing me a map. "Good luck then."
The turn-off was just west of of the ranch. The El Coyote sign was covered in Rancho Meling advertisements but now that I knew where to look I did spot it. El Coyote was closed but I got more route advice from one of the workers. I asked what the road condition was like. He looked up, then down, and said "I don't know. There's been a lot of rain."
Hah, I scoffed, and set off again.
Oasis by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
The trail was a bit confusing near El Coyote but once I was on the right path, it was easy going. There were very few spur trails and while I didn't see any other vehicles, I did see some motorcycle tracks that I followed through lush areas just past El Coyote.
Once the trail reconnected with the main path to Mike's Sky Ranch, the terrain became much more rugged, with many recently washed out arroyos and a few rocks that had to be moved from my path.
Climbing to Mike Sky Ranch by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Most of the trail didn't require 4WD but I did need low range for some of the hill climbs. Fully loaded, Betsy is kind of a pig. With 18 gallons in the tank, another 15 on the rear bumper, 6 33" mud terrains, a plywood/2x4 bed to sleep on and my set of tools, I suspect she's a bit overweight for this sort of terrain.
Descending to Mike Sky Ranch by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
The descent down the hill yielded many more stunning views, but I left the Contour on auto as I was paying far too much attention to the road to stop and take photos.
Eventually I reached Mike's, crossed the stream, traversed some more rough terrain and reached the sandy trail out to the highway. Along the way I stopped at Juan's ranch, where I'd spent the night after the great axle disaster, and gave him a recipe for apple marmelade. Nomads - keep an eye out - there may be a new jelly man on the peninsula.
Exiting the Trail to MX-3 by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
From the pavement to San Felipe took another couple of hours, plus 15 minutes at the army checkpoint at the junction of MX-3 and MX-5. From this point on I'm going to start being difficult with these checkpoints (forgetting all my Spanish and making them work a bit harder) as this guy asked me a million random questions, rifled through all my stuff and generally made a mess of my packing.
I did that trip with my girlfriend (now wife) years ago, in a Datsun 510. No one thought we would make it. We were "somewhat prepared".
I still don't know why she married me.
There's a lot to be said about learning off-roading in a "non off-roading" vehicle.
It would be a fun trip for us now, and the scenery is amazing...
- Thread starter
- #23
Nothing definitive - either the chunks of metal in my oil pan are rings, bits of piston, or bits of bearing. I think bearing bits are the most likely explanation. I should know more tomorrow. I'm quite concerned but eh, screw it, I'm having fun either way.
If you can find your way back down - do it. This is one of the few places I've visied in Mexico that isn't over-developed and over-populated. It's beautiful and so close to the states.
A 510 wagon was the best car I've ever owned. It also handled bad roads without falling apart or ever missing a beat. I'm enjoying the photos and story. Keep us posted.
- Thread starter
- #25
Full post (click it!): http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/11/mechanics-report-taller-barney-in-san.html
Read the same content below if you don't appreciate the effort I've put into making my non-commercial ad-free site attractive and pleasant to use (or if you use Internet Explorer, hah!).
2012-09-17
Betsy's Gets Her Starter Flushed by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
After a couple of weeks spent driving around in the mud, sometimes for fun, sometimes just to get across a washed out road during one of the rain storms, Betsy's starter solenoid started hanging up. Getting it to start involved a hammer and sometimes jumping the starter solenoid to the battery.
After a couple days of this, I stopped by Taller Barney to see Alfeín, a highly recommended mechanic in San Felipe. I don't mind doing my own work when I'm at home, but on the road, it's nice to let someone else get greasy.
Alfeín's crew had the starter off in no time. He opened it up and a couple ounces of water, mud and grime poured out. I don't really understand how all that muck could have infiltrated the starter.
One of the kids in the shop ran down the road and came back with half a gallon of gasoline, a two-liter bottle of coke and some plastic cups. By this point the neighbors had started filtering in and we shared cold drinks during the afternoon heat as Alfein vigorously cleaned out the starter with the gasoline.
I met a guy with a prosthetic leg who runs every day along MEX-5, learned how to spot the water caches that the locals leave in the desert, got some tips on good places to hide money and valuables in my truck and heard many tales of roads and trips throughout México.
While I was there, I spotted some pretty cool vehicles. Alfeín likes to brag that he does his fabrication by intuition and with his senses. He has a mental image in his head of what he's building or fixing and doesn't need computers, manuals or plans.
I can't speak to that, but his V8 converted FJ40 job was coming along nicely, the engine sounded great and he got my starter in like-new condition for cheap. Hanging out in his shop was not a bad way to pass an afternoon.
The Motor Whisperer by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Cruiser by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Cart by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Buggy by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Read the same content below if you don't appreciate the effort I've put into making my non-commercial ad-free site attractive and pleasant to use (or if you use Internet Explorer, hah!).
2012-09-17
Betsy's Gets Her Starter Flushed by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
After a couple of weeks spent driving around in the mud, sometimes for fun, sometimes just to get across a washed out road during one of the rain storms, Betsy's starter solenoid started hanging up. Getting it to start involved a hammer and sometimes jumping the starter solenoid to the battery.
After a couple days of this, I stopped by Taller Barney to see Alfeín, a highly recommended mechanic in San Felipe. I don't mind doing my own work when I'm at home, but on the road, it's nice to let someone else get greasy.
Alfeín's crew had the starter off in no time. He opened it up and a couple ounces of water, mud and grime poured out. I don't really understand how all that muck could have infiltrated the starter.
One of the kids in the shop ran down the road and came back with half a gallon of gasoline, a two-liter bottle of coke and some plastic cups. By this point the neighbors had started filtering in and we shared cold drinks during the afternoon heat as Alfein vigorously cleaned out the starter with the gasoline.
I met a guy with a prosthetic leg who runs every day along MEX-5, learned how to spot the water caches that the locals leave in the desert, got some tips on good places to hide money and valuables in my truck and heard many tales of roads and trips throughout México.
While I was there, I spotted some pretty cool vehicles. Alfeín likes to brag that he does his fabrication by intuition and with his senses. He has a mental image in his head of what he's building or fixing and doesn't need computers, manuals or plans.
I can't speak to that, but his V8 converted FJ40 job was coming along nicely, the engine sounded great and he got my starter in like-new condition for cheap. Hanging out in his shop was not a bad way to pass an afternoon.
The Motor Whisperer by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Cruiser by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Cart by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Desert Buggy by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
- Thread starter
- #26
Stars over Punta Willard
See the post on WideAngleWandering.com, slathered in awesome-sauce: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/11/to-punta-willard.html
2012-09-18
View from Punta Willard at Sunset by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
This morning, before leaving San Felipe, I had to stop for one last breakfast at Champ's. I shared my huevos rancheros with the cat and thought about finally getting back into Baja's wild desert landscapes for some camping.
After breakfast, I lingered over conversation with the waiters, Benny and Alfonso. Benny has lived in San Felipe for 24 years and greets me every morning with a smile. Alfonso is the new guy. He speaks English primarily, having lived in the US since he was three years old. He left the United States in the late 90s after a DUI arrest. He unknowingly signed an agreement permanently banning him from the United States in exchange for a speedy deportation (avoiding time in an immigration holding center) and dropping the DUI charges. His kids still live in the states.
After breakfast, I stopped at the market and bought water, tortillas, cheese and a bag of cooked beans. Even I can assemble this into an easy meal.
Finally on the road, I stopped just south of San Felipe and picked up a hitch-hiker, Alberto, who was headed for Puertocitos to work on the road-building crew. He was born in Mazatlan but now lives in Puerto Peñasco. For several months he has been in Baja, working. He stays with friends in San Felipe on the weekends and hitchhikes to the job site during the week. He was enthusiastic about Maztlán and encouraged me to spend time there.
I dropped him off in Puertocitos, and soon after, encountered the road construction. I spent the last few miles to Gonzaga picking my way through the trails crossing the torn-up dirt road, weaving between the occasional bull-dozer or dump truck and keeping an eye out for the sudden drop-offs where the bridges were not yet in place. This is one of the few construction zones I've seen where I would have appreciated a pilot car.
Three hours after leaving San Felipe, I saw the turn-off for Papa Fernández restaurant and palapas. Cruz met me at the gate, charging 60 pesos for a palapa and a place to camp. He was an incredibly friendly and welcoming guy and I was glad to throw some money his way.
Clouds over Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
I set up my hammock and explored the beach a bit before making myself some tortillas 'n beans 'n cheese for dinner. As the sun began to go down, I took some photographs.
After darkness fell, I found myself in a spectacular location to photograph the stars. For the first time on the trip, there were no city lights, no lighthouses, no boats on the horizon, no cars and no flashlights. Just nature. It was perfect.
Milky Way Over Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Ursa Major from Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Ursa Major from Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
See the post on WideAngleWandering.com, slathered in awesome-sauce: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/11/to-punta-willard.html
2012-09-18
View from Punta Willard at Sunset by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
This morning, before leaving San Felipe, I had to stop for one last breakfast at Champ's. I shared my huevos rancheros with the cat and thought about finally getting back into Baja's wild desert landscapes for some camping.
After breakfast, I lingered over conversation with the waiters, Benny and Alfonso. Benny has lived in San Felipe for 24 years and greets me every morning with a smile. Alfonso is the new guy. He speaks English primarily, having lived in the US since he was three years old. He left the United States in the late 90s after a DUI arrest. He unknowingly signed an agreement permanently banning him from the United States in exchange for a speedy deportation (avoiding time in an immigration holding center) and dropping the DUI charges. His kids still live in the states.
After breakfast, I stopped at the market and bought water, tortillas, cheese and a bag of cooked beans. Even I can assemble this into an easy meal.
Finally on the road, I stopped just south of San Felipe and picked up a hitch-hiker, Alberto, who was headed for Puertocitos to work on the road-building crew. He was born in Mazatlan but now lives in Puerto Peñasco. For several months he has been in Baja, working. He stays with friends in San Felipe on the weekends and hitchhikes to the job site during the week. He was enthusiastic about Maztlán and encouraged me to spend time there.
I dropped him off in Puertocitos, and soon after, encountered the road construction. I spent the last few miles to Gonzaga picking my way through the trails crossing the torn-up dirt road, weaving between the occasional bull-dozer or dump truck and keeping an eye out for the sudden drop-offs where the bridges were not yet in place. This is one of the few construction zones I've seen where I would have appreciated a pilot car.
Three hours after leaving San Felipe, I saw the turn-off for Papa Fernández restaurant and palapas. Cruz met me at the gate, charging 60 pesos for a palapa and a place to camp. He was an incredibly friendly and welcoming guy and I was glad to throw some money his way.
Clouds over Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
I set up my hammock and explored the beach a bit before making myself some tortillas 'n beans 'n cheese for dinner. As the sun began to go down, I took some photographs.
After darkness fell, I found myself in a spectacular location to photograph the stars. For the first time on the trip, there were no city lights, no lighthouses, no boats on the horizon, no cars and no flashlights. Just nature. It was perfect.
Milky Way Over Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Ursa Major from Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Ursa Major from Punta Willard by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
- Thread starter
- #27
Gonzaga Bah
2012-09-20
Gonzaga Bay Pastels and Bird by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
I woke up early, sweating, as the sun was up and over the horizon. The fridge drained my battery overnight so I cooked all the perishables and had more machaca/chile/lime tacos than any person should need in the morning.
After breakfast I went out and explored the rocky beach and went for a swim. The water was shallow, warm and very clear with small grey minnows and bright yellow fish that looked like they belonged in a small freshwater acquarium. Later I regretted this swim as it caused blisters, like little chemical burns on my skin.
READ MORE: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/gonzaga-blah.html
Click through for more photos and the exciting conclusion. Will I turn into a half-shark half-human supercreature? Wrestle a jelly fish to shore? Stumble into a real estate deal, meet a Bajeña and spend the rest of my life in Gonzaga? Or just drift on to the next spot?
Sorry about the teaser - I'm getting lazy about copying/pasting/fixing links/swapping HTML for BBCode, etc to copy these posts to the various forums.
2012-09-20
Gonzaga Bay Pastels and Bird by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
I woke up early, sweating, as the sun was up and over the horizon. The fridge drained my battery overnight so I cooked all the perishables and had more machaca/chile/lime tacos than any person should need in the morning.
After breakfast I went out and explored the rocky beach and went for a swim. The water was shallow, warm and very clear with small grey minnows and bright yellow fish that looked like they belonged in a small freshwater acquarium. Later I regretted this swim as it caused blisters, like little chemical burns on my skin.
READ MORE: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/gonzaga-blah.html
Click through for more photos and the exciting conclusion. Will I turn into a half-shark half-human supercreature? Wrestle a jelly fish to shore? Stumble into a real estate deal, meet a Bajeña and spend the rest of my life in Gonzaga? Or just drift on to the next spot?
Sorry about the teaser - I'm getting lazy about copying/pasting/fixing links/swapping HTML for BBCode, etc to copy these posts to the various forums.
Last edited:
Looks like a pelican to me. What do you suppose caused the blistering? If not sun exposure, something in the water that shouldn't be there?
- Thread starter
- #29
Pretty sure it was a pelican - there were tons of them out there. I should update the caption.
Blistering - I think it was something in the water. It happened around both sides of Punta Willard and nowhere else that I've ever been. It wasn't severe, just annoying.
Blistering - I think it was something in the water. It happened around both sides of Punta Willard and nowhere else that I've ever been. It wasn't severe, just annoying.
- Thread starter
- #30
Coco's Corner
Full Post http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/cocos-corner.html
2012-09-21
Bahia de los Angelos Sunset by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Yesterday I left Gonzaga Bay and headed towards Coco's Corner, not sure if I was after a deserted beach with no grumpy conversations or if I'd make another stab at finding the overland track, if there even is one in Mexico right now.
Heading south, I drove through beautiful desert landscape with ocotillo cactus swaying in the breeze, tall saguaro's standing solid and many rocks covered in spray-painted graffiti from thoughtless passers-by. This is pretty inhospitable territory and I have a hard time imagining the early inhabitants, conquistadors and missionaries making their way through this place. Stopping to take a break and some photos, I saw two vehicles pass by. Both made a point of stopping and making sure I was ok.
Click here for the full post, with photos and links and all that happy stuff.
(sorry for the teasers. i don't really care if people go to my blog, there's not an ad-word or an attempt at profit to be found there. I'm just tired of reformatting/fixing links/writing UBB code to convert blog posts to forum posts)
Full Post http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/cocos-corner.html
2012-09-21
Bahia de los Angelos Sunset by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
Yesterday I left Gonzaga Bay and headed towards Coco's Corner, not sure if I was after a deserted beach with no grumpy conversations or if I'd make another stab at finding the overland track, if there even is one in Mexico right now.
Heading south, I drove through beautiful desert landscape with ocotillo cactus swaying in the breeze, tall saguaro's standing solid and many rocks covered in spray-painted graffiti from thoughtless passers-by. This is pretty inhospitable territory and I have a hard time imagining the early inhabitants, conquistadors and missionaries making their way through this place. Stopping to take a break and some photos, I saw two vehicles pass by. Both made a point of stopping and making sure I was ok.
Click here for the full post, with photos and links and all that happy stuff.
(sorry for the teasers. i don't really care if people go to my blog, there's not an ad-word or an attempt at profit to be found there. I'm just tired of reformatting/fixing links/writing UBB code to convert blog posts to forum posts)
WideAngleWandering said:
No worries, it's worth it for the read (and the pictures).
- Thread starter
- #32
Screw the Whale Sharks
Full post: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/screw-whale-sharks.html
2012-09-22
Dawn Breaks over Bahia de Los Angeles by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
This morning I woke up just before dawn to hear the fisherman getting their gear ready. I was sweating in the humidity despite leaving all my windows open to let the breeze through. I watched the sun rise from my tailgate, which motivated me to get out of the truck and shoot a few images from the beach.
I took my time organizing my gear and set off to explore the town and decide if I would stay or go. Maybe even see some whale sharks (hopefully not entangled in a Gonzaga gill net). First I stopped by the Brisa Marina, where the sea turtle hatchery is located. It was shut down and in disrepair.
Read on for the full post with photos, links, etc
Full post: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/screw-whale-sharks.html
2012-09-22
Dawn Breaks over Bahia de Los Angeles by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
This morning I woke up just before dawn to hear the fisherman getting their gear ready. I was sweating in the humidity despite leaving all my windows open to let the breeze through. I watched the sun rise from my tailgate, which motivated me to get out of the truck and shoot a few images from the beach.
I took my time organizing my gear and set off to explore the town and decide if I would stay or go. Maybe even see some whale sharks (hopefully not entangled in a Gonzaga gill net). First I stopped by the Brisa Marina, where the sea turtle hatchery is located. It was shut down and in disrepair.
Read on for the full post with photos, links, etc
- Thread starter
- #33
Gracias. It helps keep me motivated to post if I think someone's actually enjoying my drivel.
WideAngleWandering said:
I'm really enjoying it. I dream of taking a trip like this someday in my 80.
Your adventures look like a lot of fun, thanks for sharing. What happened with the metal in the oil pan? Did it turn out to be valve guides or rings?
- Thread starter
- #36
It is a mystery. I should know more this afternoon when I go back to the shop and witness the first start with the newly serviced injectors.
- Thread starter
- #37
Ciudad Antigua (fleeing mortars and rockets)
Full Post: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/ciudad-vieja.html
2012-12-08 (Please note the dates. I'm now posting in whatever order I please.)
Rickety Rocket Launchers by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
The chicken bus stopped unexpectedly. The driver said something I didn't make out and everyone began to get off. I stepped off the bus and looked up to see the top of a rusty ferris wheel against the backdrop of a volcano. As I was wondering what the problem was with the bus, I heard the twin thwumps of mortars being fired. They exploded high overhead, sending cardboard shrapnel to the ground. I followed the crowd and rounded the corner to find a flatbed truck full of angels and demons blocking the road.
The rest of the afternoon was uneventful, though after finishing my business in the city, I found myself walking back to Antigua, wondering where the return buses were.
2012-12-09
The chicken bus followed the normal route today. After a fruitless visit to my mechanic, I walked to the centro to find some food. A sizeable crowd was picking their way through the aisles, shopping and eating. I bought some water and a tortilla with sausage and fermented cabbage (Mayan sauerkraut?) and sat down by the church. A banner on the wall depicted a wrinkly old white guy with a gold, jeweled staff topped with a crucifix. Inside, a pre-recorded sermon read by an overly-inflective voice actor played, followed by hymns. Outside, dozens of bells clammered for the attention of potential ice cream customers.
After a few minutes, the music changed to flutes and drums. Suddenly the bells stopped and the ice cream vendors started pushing their carts down the road. I thought a religious procession, the bizarre mix of the solemn and the raucous, might be displacing the vendors but suddenly the people on the street began to run. I stood up and looked for danger; the last time I'd seen a crowd move like that it was followed by a group of riot police firing tear gas. A short distance away, I saw a burst of smoke quickly followed by a loud report.
Read more ...
(sorry for the teasers - copying/pasting/fixing links/converting HTML to BBCode for the various fora has become a burdon)
Full Post: http://www.wideanglewandering.com/2012/12/ciudad-vieja.html
2012-12-08 (Please note the dates. I'm now posting in whatever order I please.)
Rickety Rocket Launchers by WideAngleWandering, on Flickr
The chicken bus stopped unexpectedly. The driver said something I didn't make out and everyone began to get off. I stepped off the bus and looked up to see the top of a rusty ferris wheel against the backdrop of a volcano. As I was wondering what the problem was with the bus, I heard the twin thwumps of mortars being fired. They exploded high overhead, sending cardboard shrapnel to the ground. I followed the crowd and rounded the corner to find a flatbed truck full of angels and demons blocking the road.
The rest of the afternoon was uneventful, though after finishing my business in the city, I found myself walking back to Antigua, wondering where the return buses were.
2012-12-09
The chicken bus followed the normal route today. After a fruitless visit to my mechanic, I walked to the centro to find some food. A sizeable crowd was picking their way through the aisles, shopping and eating. I bought some water and a tortilla with sausage and fermented cabbage (Mayan sauerkraut?) and sat down by the church. A banner on the wall depicted a wrinkly old white guy with a gold, jeweled staff topped with a crucifix. Inside, a pre-recorded sermon read by an overly-inflective voice actor played, followed by hymns. Outside, dozens of bells clammered for the attention of potential ice cream customers.
After a few minutes, the music changed to flutes and drums. Suddenly the bells stopped and the ice cream vendors started pushing their carts down the road. I thought a religious procession, the bizarre mix of the solemn and the raucous, might be displacing the vendors but suddenly the people on the street began to run. I stood up and looked for danger; the last time I'd seen a crowd move like that it was followed by a group of riot police firing tear gas. A short distance away, I saw a burst of smoke quickly followed by a loud report.
Read more ...
(sorry for the teasers - copying/pasting/fixing links/converting HTML to BBCode for the various fora has become a burdon)
Hey no word recently, everything going ok?
- Thread starter
- #39
Everything is good. I've decided to hole up in Antigua through the holidays. I've met a lot of good folks out here, travelers and locals alike, and well, I do have a propensity to linger.
I have photos and posts to write but also beer to drink and mountains to explore. It's a tough call sometimes
I have photos and posts to write but also beer to drink and mountains to explore. It's a tough call sometimes
WideAngleWandering said:Everything is good. I've decided to hole up in Antigua through the holidays. I've met a lot of good folks out here, travelers and locals alike, and well, I do have a propensity to linger.
I have photos and posts to write but also beer to drink and mountains to explore. It's a tough call sometimes
I don't blame you a bit. I wish you a Merry Christmas and happy hunting. I look forward to your next post.
