T/O Bearing Fork issue

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Apr 26, 2007
Upper So. CA
Tried a couple of fruitless searches and turned up nothing. Patch has a Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch in it. 11-12 years ago I had the pivot ball pocket in the t/o bearing fork break, which caused hard shifting. The slave cylinder would fully cycle, but the fork would bend in the pivot pocket and not completely disengage the clutch.

Well, it feels like this might have happened again. I am curious if anyone else has had this happen to them too? Seems like an odd failure to have happen twice. Makes me think that the Centerforce PP might be the cause of the problem.

I'm going to check the hydraulics out first since the symptoms are the same. Sure would be nice to have an inspection cover (G series) so that I could see inside of the b/h rather than having to pull the trans-t/c combo just to inspect the fork. Oh well, t/o bearing needs to be replaced anyway.....
I decided that since I could not recall when I'd replaced either the master or the slave that I'd just do it now, and then see how the clutch worked. On the way home from my fiance's I stopped at our local CarQuest and bought the parts. Crawling under Patch (for the first time) to open the bleed nipple I noticed that the slave cyl was dripping. So it may just be the hydraulics. Fingers crossed.....
a center-force I does not, but it is at the limits, downy had a chart on there site a while back, any how i have run the center-force I for about 1998 and have had now breakage or problems i could say was the clutch its self, i did have a new master that would not let my slave fully engage.
Looks like new cylinders fixed it. I found an angle where I could sort of see the pivot pocket and pivot point while the slave was moving the fork and I didn't see any flex or cracks that appeared and disappeared as it moved. Was tough to get into reverse, but even with everything good it had trouble while still on high idle. I'll try driving it to work tomorrow.
The same thing happened to my '86 truck w/ a dual friction clutch. I welded up the fork and ran it 'til it broke again which was around 5K miles. Replaced the fork for a brand new OEM one and after 25K miles I think it broke again 'cuz my tranny is stuck in 1st gear. So the truck will sit 'til I have time to work on it again.:frown::)
I replaced the fork with a new OE part when it broke. I am thinking that should this one break that I'll add a strap welded tot he fork near the fork in it, over the pivot divot (but not welded to it!) and then out to near the slave push-rod divot. If the welding doesn't slightly shrink the strap I'll do that to put some tension on the pivot divot.

However, I drove it to work today (41 miles) with no trouble so I think that I jumped the gun because of previous problems. Over-looked the obvious in favor of the bizarre just because that's what happened the last time.

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