The trick is to put the (stake)nut on (without the companion flange!!!!). Tighten it handtight, rotate the shaft several revolutions to get the bearing 'seated' and then use the torquewrench to "torque" the nut.
Make sure the transfer is set to 'neutral' so that the shaft can turn freely.
As the shaft can turn freely you cannot really torque the nut because the shaft will start to rotate.
The amount of torque that is needed to get the shaft turning is the 'preload' for the bearing.
If you have a 'bending' torquewrench it's just a matter of looking at the scale and observe the amount of force applied at the moment you turn the shaft. If that is within the prescribed range, you're fine.
Is the value too high ---> thinner shim, too low -->thicker shim (get bearing retainer off - remove race - replace shim - race in(make sure race is seated properly!) - bolt on AND torque bearing retainer - check preload etc).
In case you have a 'clicking' torque wrench, set it to the lowest value and try. If the shaft starts rotating before the 'click' the preload is too low (--> thicker shim needed).
If it doesn't start rotating, set it to the upper value and check.
if the rotation starts before the 'click' you're done because the preload is in range. If it doesn't --> preload is too high (thinner shim).
The required values are 15 - 24.7 kg-cm!! or 13.0-21.4 in.-lb or 1.5 -2.4 Nm
Have fun!
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