t-case leak
- Thread starter brett76
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Good Pics. What I do is slide the input gear then spacer then PTO gear onto the shaft. Run a small bead/large tack on the spacer to input and spacer to PTO. PRESTO McNamera gear for free.RoddQLD said:Transfer input gear and spacer and PTO gear; in Australia you can actually buy these as one complete unit (the splines run all the way through!!).
http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/driveshaft1.html
A few hundred bucks, but might be worth it:
Rodd
Yeah the McNamera is a better design wil the full inner splining but this works great and, ITs FREE! I have done this 20+ times and have yet to have any issue; even on my beast.
Funny you should say that David, coz I just picked up a gearbox input shaft from a local fellow here, and he only just told me a very similar thing. It turns out that this fellow is a well respected guy who is involved in competition with his cruiser/s and has heaps of experience with Landcruisers.
I am stoked because not only have I got a notable landcruiser guy in my own town (since January) but he's got all the gear and knowledge that can help me out heaps (and he's a nice bloke, to boot)!
I am stoked because not only have I got a notable landcruiser guy in my own town (since January) but he's got all the gear and knowledge that can help me out heaps (and he's a nice bloke, to boot)!
LOL. No it's not. It's bad enough that the sheep give us funny looks!!!
(There's that old saying, "Australia.. where men are men... and the sheep are nervous"!!!)
(There's that old saying, "Australia.. where men are men... and the sheep are nervous"!!!)
Here is some more wear that I have found:
This is the 4WD selector in the T/C:
This is a close up:
You can see the wear on the splines. Fortunately, I saw one of these shafts on eBay a few months ago (cheap) so took the risk and bought it. It happens to be in really good condition, and at the time I didn't even know where the shaft went!!
This is the 4WD selector in the T/C:
This is a close up:
You can see the wear on the splines. Fortunately, I saw one of these shafts on eBay a few months ago (cheap) so took the risk and bought it. It happens to be in really good condition, and at the time I didn't even know where the shaft went!!
You will need bearing pullers to replace your bearings. Otherwise the rest of the transfer case disassembly hasn't required anything (but I haven't put it back together yet!!). CruiserDrew can help here. CruiserDrew has said that the preloads have to be set upon re-assembly (?).
Sounds like the gearbox is going to be more of a challenge as some heavy duty bearing pullers may be required (I'll pay someone else to do that).
Sounds like the gearbox is going to be more of a challenge as some heavy duty bearing pullers may be required (I'll pay someone else to do that).
You can take the assy to a machine shop with a press and get the 2 main bearings off the shaft and replace with new. The front inner roller bearing that mates to the front drive shaft is a giant PITA to remove. I use a carbide tip on a die grinder to split the case then chisle it out. If it is good shape you can leave it.
The preload is set using shims in the bearing retainer. The shims that come out of the old case will work with the new bearings. This is almost never an issue. Just use the old shims with new bearings and measure the preload per FSM. If you really need them OEM are still out there.
The preload is set using shims in the bearing retainer. The shims that come out of the old case will work with the new bearings. This is almost never an issue. Just use the old shims with new bearings and measure the preload per FSM. If you really need them OEM are still out there.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
brett76 said:
David is the expert here, but I'll tell you what I did. I did replace the front output shaft support bearing, It was easy to drive the old one out and easy to drive the new one in. There is a c-clip to hold it in place, be careful with that.
You need a big press to get the old output shaft bearings off, then a tiny pilot bearing puller to get the tiny pilot bearing out of the front of the output shaft. To re-install the bearings on the out put shaft, you also need a big press. I tried a bearing puller and had no luck. You need a big press.
Once the new bearings are on the output shaft, it is time to reassemble the case. Be careful with the high low shift fork. It is easy to get the actuator in wrong. Once the whole case is back together, the last job is to set the preload on the output shaft bearings. The retainer that holds the outer race has a small shim under it. This shim, determines preload in the whole system. I was given David's advice, that 9 times out of 10 the old shim will work and get preload correct. My experience was different. After install, my preload was zero and there was slight play in the shaft. I ordered a full pack of shims from Cruiserdan-I think there are 12 and they are $7 each.
By trial and error, I got the right preload after 3 tries and an educated guess. There is no shortcut here. You assemble, measure preload, and if wrong, drive out the race/shim and try a different one. If you are methodical it goes well. I have almost 5000 miles on my rebuild with no issues, so I think I did it right.Good luck, doing a second case would be easy. Doing the first case was difficult. I took my time and did everything as right as I could. The output preload adjustment is not especially hard, but it is tedious, and the result has to be exactly right, or the work of the rebuild was wasted.
My first peek inside the gearbox... can't see any problems in there (yet)...
Got my transfer case kit and gearbox kit, and rear diff kit.
Will be away from the transmission for a few weeks and will recommence after that (and keep you updated).
Will be away from the transmission for a few weeks and will recommence after that (and keep you updated).