Swapping 2UZ-FE with 1HDT_FTE and Installing performance upgrades ! (1 Viewer)

Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
27
Location
pakistan
 
I'm working on my new Rig on a 100 series LC. I'm retaining its original Chassis and the rest of the drive-train except its motor/engine. I'm planning to swap the stock 2UZ-FE gasoline V8 with a diesel 4.2 1HDT-FTE, retaining the stock 5 speed Auto Transmission. So for which 1HDT-FTE engine option I will choose; I have two variants of 1HDT_FTE one in 79 series and another in the 100 series. I'm interested in 79 series 1HD-FTE coz of easy wiring as compared to the 100's. However, I'm not using 79 series manual trans. i want to use 79's 1hd-fte and plug it with 100 series 5 speed auto transmission with zig-zag gears. If i don't get the 79 series 1HD-FTE then reluctantly, i will go for 100 series 1HDT-FTE. The unique thing with my RIG is 100 percent redesigned custom fabricated body which gives it a unique value, but the problem is the body of the truck is heavy in comparison to factory body weight standards and that creates the challenge furthermore, the box styled body design and height of the truck creates a lot of Drag as well which is further aggravated by 37x18 tires and wheels. To respond to the problem, I'm searching for a comprehensive solution. I definitely need turbos and inter coolers (at least). However, options of UNICHIP modular, after market performance injectors,cooling systems, valve body upgrades, exhaust system upgrades and so many other mouth watering options are there which sounds really attractive but expansive as well !
I'm planning to spin 37x18 inch coopers-stt pros mud terrains on this planned rig with a heavy body, pl suggest what is the Minimum which can give me some real torque and horses(HP) to this monster RIG and how I can plug 79 series 1HDT_FTE engine with a 100 series 5 speed Gasoline auto transmission?
The real issue is most websites on Diesel Performance selling these performance upgrades; are only talking about TURBOS and UNICHIPS and magic power increase but they are not advising how to handle the increased Torque & HP...? how to make the truck body and its drive-train absorb the increased power which can be sustainable and with no major impact on engine, gearbox, and so many other parts of the drive train.
I live in Pakistan where I don't get quality service and maintenance support as You gentlemen have in Australia or USA. I need your assistance as how this power increase would impact my drive train right from the transfer box/case to the bearings of the truck's rear wheel, its engine mounts, body mounts, and bolts etc.
I would really appreciate, if you guys can help me identify all these issues and come up with a turn key solution with plug and play equipment, suggesting what are the minimum performance upgrades which can give me nice highway speed with off road and gravel expedition capability, I need to do to enhance the power of my clutch plate, axles, connecting rods etc to sustain the increase in boost,torque and power. As I mentioned above, I live in a place where I don't have experts on remapping or even tuning in a professional manner.
With this epidement, I request that kindly suggest what I need to do?


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Joined
Sep 24, 2017
Messages
542
Location
Texas
We would love to see some more pictures of your vehicle, sounds very cool. Is the rest of drivetrain stock 100 series? Independent front suspension?
alot of how strong things need to be depends on how hard you drive it.

80 series guys run 37 on stock 80 rear axles(which is similar to our rear axle) so I would have no concern there. In regards to IFS, you will likely need stronger CV joints and ensure you have the 4 pinion front differential. Even then I wouldn’t be surprised if you occasionally broke CV joints. Everything else in the drivetrain won’t be a bottle neck
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2018
Messages
158
Location
EU
You can find info on such swap here by eleblanc.

The drivetrain is not your limiting factor on power.
You can go above 280hp/1200nm with a manual gearbox and a 1300nm clutch. With the 4 speed auto I have seen many 800nm+. The 5 speed auto is way more limited and can safely handle only up to about 600nm. You can maybe get a bit more with a custom valve body, but not very much. The limit there is the 5th speed and line pressures.

You 100% need 3" exhaust and bigger intercooler for anything above stock. For higher powers high flowed injectors (+70) and higher flow turbo - 30+ psi are also a requirement.

The engine itself handles the power fine. People from Australia only advice to use stronger head bolts above 40psi.

If souring engine, etc from abroad definitely try to get an Australian ECU. Almost all decent chips on the market target that. The European engine & ECU have some Euro 3 emission additions and stock VNT turbo that make things harder to tune.

Is the rig on the photo yours? Looks bloody amazing.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
27
Location
pakistan
 
Is the rig on the photo yours? Looks bloody amazing
yep
You can find info on such swap here by eleblanc.

The drivetrain is not your limiting factor on power.
You can go above 280hp/1200nm with a manual gearbox and a 1300nm clutch. With the 4 speed auto I have seen many 800nm+. The 5 speed auto is way more limited and can safely handle only up to about 600nm. You can maybe get a bit more with a custom valve body, but not very much. The limit there is the 5th speed and line pressures.

You 100% need 3" exhaust and bigger intercooler for anything above stock. For higher powers high flowed injectors (+70) and higher flow turbo - 30+ psi are also a requirement.

The engine itself handles the power fine. People from Australia only advice to use stronger head bolts above 40psi.

If souring engine, etc from abroad definitely try to get an Australian ECU. Almost all decent chips on the market target that. The European engine & ECU have some Euro 3 emission additions and stock VNT turbo that make things harder to tune.

Is the rig on the photo yours? Looks bloody amazing.
YES, it is my Rig, Im working on this project for the last 7 years, like a chameleon, it changes shapes and colors but the drive train is 100 series with IFS in the front and with 5 speed automatic transmission. i have added 4.88 gear ratios coz with such a big body box and air drag and 37s, it was difficult for the 2UZ-fe to spin the tires. i have also added upper arms from total chaos and icon dynamics 2.5 suspension with remote reservoirs. i have recently purchased lower arm kit from Killer offroad due to MR.CHRIS convincing arguments about the kit, but neither he sent instructions for install nor i know how to install them, so almost a setup destined to live in the garage cabinet !
Now i am planning 1hdt-fte, so thanks a zillion for your feedback. can u help me identify the source in AUS, where i can get a stand alone ECU, Turbo, Intercooler, and high flowed injectors front forged CV joints and engine head controls. the problem is we dont have experts in fabrications back here, so i essentially need bolt on and pre-tuned setups. if u can i dentify products which are tough, durable and pre tuned, i would be grateful.
greetings from Pak

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Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
27
Location
pakistan
 
We would love to see some more pictures of your vehicle, sounds very cool. Is the rest of drivetrain stock 100 series? Independent front suspension?
alot of how strong things need to be depends on how hard you drive it.

80 series guys run 37 on stock 80 rear axles(which is similar to our rear axle) so I would have no concern there. In regards to IFS, you will likely need stronger CV joints and ensure you have the 4 pinion front differential. Even then I wouldn’t be surprised if you occasionally broke CV joints. Everything else in the drivetrain won’t be a bottle neck
YES, drive-train is stock 100 series. i changed to 4.88 gear ratios, total chaos upper arms, front diff drop, and icon dynamics 2.5 suspension system. recently, i gambled on Chris from Killer off road USA and got their lower arm kit for 100 series with coil-overs in the front. however, there are no instructions for installation and the recent reviews on this kit is not encouraging, so im actually splitting hairs as what to do !!!???? the kit is expansive but to change from torsion to coil-overs seems risky. im working on this project for the last 7 years, like a chameleon it changes colors, i will share a few pics

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Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
27
Location
pakistan
 
YES, drive-train is stock 100 series. i changed to 4.88 gear ratios, total chaos upper arms, front diff drop, and icon dynamics 2.5 suspension system. recently, i gambled on Chris from Killer off road USA and got their lower arm kit for 100 series with coil-overs in the front. however, there are no instructions for installation and the recent reviews on this kit is not encouraging, so im actually splitting hairs as what to do !!!???? the kit is expansive but to change from torsion to coil-overs seems risky. im working on this project for the last 7 years, like a chameleon it changes colors, i will share a few pics

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Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Messages
991
Location
Hungary - EU
FYI, they have a different frame. (And different (diesel is longer) torsion bars as well) Also the cooler/intercooler/climate cooler setup is way different from the petrol ones. Dash, ECU, engine harnesses, blabla.. I'm not saying it's not worth trying, but it must be way easier and cheaper to live with the v8, than to hack the 1hd into its place. If you really need a diesel (wouldn't understand why, as the 2uz is superior), then I'd try to hack in an 1HD-FT instead, as that at least has a mechanical distributor (instead of the super expensive and notoriously unreliable electronical one on the FTE - which is not even serviceable easily (toyota doesn't sell parts for it) like the FT one) & no complicated engine management.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
27
Location
pakistan
 
FYI, they have a different frame. (And different (diesel is longer) torsion bars as well) Also the cooler/intercooler/climate cooler setup is way different from the petrol ones. Dash, ECU, engine harnesses, blabla.. I'm not saying it's not worth trying, but it must be way easier and cheaper to live with the v8, than to hack the 1hd into its place. If you really need a diesel (wouldn't understand why, as the 2uz is superior), then I'd try to hack in an 1HD-FT instead, as that at least has a mechanical distributor (instead of the super expensive and notoriously unreliable electronical one on the FTE - which is not even serviceable easily (toyota doesn't sell parts for it) like the FT one) & no complicated engine management.
On the Dot, point well noted !
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
27
Location
pakistan
 
On the Dot, point well noted !
The issue is the guts of 2UZ-FE
We would love to see some more pictures of your vehicle, sounds very cool. Is the rest of drivetrain stock 100 series? Independent front suspension?
alot of how strong things need to be depends on how hard you drive it.

80 series guys run 37 on stock 80 rear axles(which is similar to our rear axle) so I would have no concern there. In regards to IFS, you will likely need stronger CV joints and ensure you have the 4 pinion front differential. Even then I wouldn’t be surprised if you occasionally broke CV joints. Everything else in the drivetrain won’t be a bottle neck
Rightly said; that how hard im gonna use this truck would actually define what precaution would need to protect drive-train and its components including body and chassis from negative impact. well, Im not going to use it on typical US and Aus trails with serious offroad. however, i intend to use my truck on the street, long gravel roads and trails and a bit of off-road. Im looking for decent highway speed coz essentially due to different truck scenarios available in my country which are either desert and gravel high torque and hp environment to heavy torque and low gear scenario of 4x4 level 1 type trails. Im planning to work some where in the middle of these extremes. the reason is this truck is actually chasing an expedition challenge, to cover Miles and miles on different challenges of tracks,motorways,highways,dirt ,snow,desert tracks etc with temperatures extremes from 50 degrees to minus deg scenarios !
Due to locally hand made bodywork without modern tools and equipment (as you lucky truckers have got plenty back home), the body got weight. This issue, with extreme air drag, which is due to the box style of the truck body and the fact that in the last fabrication which we did on this truck in 2017 resulted in a higher wind shield and lower cowl and hood placement which due to this difference created even more drag, snatching a lot of horses of my motor. to respond to this issue, we re fabricated the cowl and the front hood of the truck.
work is in progress, which would be actually the Third re-carnation of this truck i named as, ASHENSTEINE !
please advise, I have, as mentioned above re-fab the front hood&cowl. the interior of this truck is carrying its original dash with complete original complete wire looms,ECU etc, with fridge console and leather and electronic stock seats. the issue is due to the straight wind shield 100 series dash is not properly sitting coz of curved style of the dash. So im planning to remove the windshield and cut it down to the floor, and replace it with 100 series original dash engine bay separator area from the nose cut of 100 series body.
it is indeed challenging but im up to the task. the hand made roof has rusted and i definitely need new roof, again i need to shed weight but i also want to keep its old AShensteine's looks. All this is a challenge, IM up-to. Gentlemen, You r lucky to have a huge industry support system, in our country we are trying to reach to a reasonable level of support system as the race environment is specially on the boom back here ! still it is a difficult environment due to lack of industry support to have access to parts, tools and expertise. Gentlemen, pl help me build a nice and clean project ! I need advise as I have stripped the body from its chasis, tips on how to do it and direction for parts would really help me a great deal. From body sound and weather proofing to custom floor carpet concepts and so on, body parts, paint jobs, performance and so on !
I will be sharing the progress of the rig on the forum, pl find time to comment your feedback would be really helpful !

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Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
885
Location
Colorado
Have you ever thought about just supercharging the 2UZ? That will add a decent amount of pep to the engine that you have. If you are willing to swap out the rods, you can get even more than the 100 hp and 100 tq that the supercharger will add in normal form. The supercharger also just uses a piggyback tuner.

I would look forward to seeing a 1HD swap though too.
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
27
Location
pakistan
 
Have you ever thought about just supercharging the 2UZ? That will add a decent amount of pep to the engine that you have. If you are willing to swap out the rods, you can get even more than the 100 hp and 100 tq that the supercharger will add in normal form. The supercharger also just uses a piggyback tuner.

I would look forward to seeing a 1HD swap though too.
yes that is a very valid option but back here except few selected stations we have high octane, rest of country on regular ! so the non availability of high octane is the limiting factor !
 
Joined
Aug 16, 2012
Messages
27
Location
pakistan
 
FYI, they have a different frame. (And different (diesel is longer) torsion bars as well) Also the cooler/intercooler/climate cooler setup is way different from the petrol ones. Dash, ECU, engine harnesses, blabla.. I'm not saying it's not worth trying, but it must be way easier and cheaper to live with the v8, than to hack the 1hd into its place. If you really need a diesel (wouldn't understand why, as the 2uz is superior), then I'd try to hack in an 1HD-FT instead, as that at least has a mechanical distributor (instead of the super expensive and notoriously unreliable electronical one on the FTE - which is not even serviceable easily (toyota doesn't sell parts for it) like the FT one) & no complicated engine management.
Would you pl tell me what things I need to change as I finally got a good 1hd-fte engine 2005 model with an automatic gearbox, I need to swap it to manual gear. Now what I need to change, ECU, torsionbars... what else ???? Can 79 series RKR manual gear of 1hd-fte would work with 109 series 1hd-fte? Can gasoline version of manual gear of 109 would work with 1hd-get or I have to get exact diesel 100 series manual gear box? Can I install rear and front diff locks with factory center diff lock?
 

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