Suspension seat bases into non-suspension seat truck

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Sep 2, 2007
Longmont, CO
I'm contributing this because there doesn't seem to be enough pictures of this process out there. This is the installation of suspension seat frames into a non-suspension-seat BJ73 (1985, if it matters).

Pull up the carpet - the non-suspension trucks have towers welded to the floor that must be removed. There are three - one at the rear inside corner, one at the front outside corner, and the rib over the tranny hump that needs shortening. In truth the front-outside tower can probably be left in place, but I removed it anyway.

I used a reciprocating saw because it was fastest. Worked great.

On my truck, at least, all of the necessary captive nuts were present under the floor. Others have said some, or none, are there on their trucks - might be a year or 73/74 thing.

I drilled a pilot hole from the bottom, and then drilled to the full diameter from the top. And then some grey primer because I had it laying around.

Fits perfectly.

If you're fitting aftermarket seats then you're done. But adapting non-suspension seats to suspension frame is troublesome. Problem #1 is that the non-suspension seats are asymmetrical, the outer slider is spaced way down from the seat. However the inner slider is at the appropriate height for the suspension frames.

The other problem is the mechanism for sliding the seat includes a cable-operated doohickey that swings the seat forward when you flip the "rear entry lever". On non-suspension seats this points inward and prevent that slider from bolting onto the suspension frame.

Dunno how to solve those problems yet. Thinking on it. Here's where I'm at now, I cut off the "deep" slider mount so I can make something more like the inner edge.

If you've got a spare set of seat sliders from a suspension-seat truck, by all means let me know............ :D
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I should add...

It IS possible move the outboard slider to the inside and visa versa and then they'll both fit. However, you won't be able to connect the cable from the rear-entry lever, so the seat will no longer slide forward when you hit the entry lever - only the seat back will flip forward and you'll have to reach for the other lever to move the seat. I may do this as a short term solution.
Swapped out some seats from a Honda Prelude (1988). Just fabed up some steel plate and fixed that to the bases using original bolt holes. No welding required. Seems to work OK nice and comfy seeing that Iam a short arse (178cm) but a well built 85KG ha ha .
Suspension seat reference pics

Drew, let me know if you need any close ups of anything. These were taken of the DS seat:

- side
- front left
- front right
front left.JPG
front right.JPG
- back view
- close up of back of inner side of seat
- front view of space just below seats

And yes, it's just your imagination... there's no dog hair in that one! ;)
rear left.jpg
Busy, busy, busy! So glad to not be home for the cutting up process lol! I will much more enjoy the end product. Be nice too Moose and don't hurt him!
Great work! I am thinking of doing something similar. I am debating between installing new foam on the existing seats or putting putting new seats on the suspension base.
Nice work,
I however did go the oposite way and removed the 20kg squeeking seat-suspension from the base.
The top and bottom (suspension) frames can easely be welded togeather, as if they are in fully compressed position


"Light Duty" Suspension seat frames welded togeather ;)

Bottom of Subaru seat with leftovers of the LC seat welded on. Which is now bolt on , and adds the height due to the ex-suspension seat base being in the lowest position.

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