Suspension- Icon Stage 4 install on new (to me) '05.

[PNWRoughRider]

Hey All,

TL/DR: Novice trying to install a full suspension kit on a 05 Lexus GX 470. Scroll to the bottom for questions.

As the title says, I just bought a 2005 470, 200k miles for $8k. It's in decent shape for a 17 year old suv. It will mainly be used for light to medium off roading, traveling down PNW forest roads, dispersed camping, basecamp for hunting and a 500 mile once a month road trip to drill.

I'm a complete novice mechanic. I've done brakes, rotors and two radiators (Dodge Caravan and Ford Flex) and that's about it.

I'm thinking I should go straight to the Icon stage 4 suspension kit with the tubular UCAs as this will nearly completely overhaul my front and rear suspension and be enough (or slightly more than I need) for my activities. Also, I like the idea of it being adjustable for when I switch between road and trail.

Any reason I should go with a different stage?

Is the upgrade to the billet UCA worth the price jump ($900 more)?
Also, this kit doesn't come with lower control arms as far as I can tell, what Lower control arms would pair well with this kit?

I have more question regarding the install, but I know this is getting long....

I've watched some YouTube videos, but I'm worried this may be too much and I'll get stuck in a position where I can't get the truck to a shop (no suspension hooked up or something).

Questions I have:

Is this doable for a novice?

Are there any special tools I need? I have a Rigid Compact and a Rigid High Torque impact wrench. Set of metric impact sockets up to 20mm. Full set of 3/8 & 1/2" craftsman socket set. 6 and 12 inch breaker bar. 6 ton floor jack, two 6 ton jack stands. Torque Wrench (100 ft/lbs). Other normal hand tools.

Should I do front or back first?

Any other maintenance I should do, while I have this thing disassembled?

Thanks in advance for reading all this!

 

[eL PeReZ eSe]

Welcome, IMO for light to medium trails that's overkill and a lot of money. Example, my setup is 32.5" tires, 5100's Bilstein shocks, Dobinsons springs, Freedom off road UCA and OEM LCA. I tackle a lot of medium trails with ease. My opinion on remote reservoir shocks: unless you are running baja at moderate/high speeds, it's not worth the money. Just my two cents.

 

[Rednexus]

First off, congrats on the purchase of your rig! $8K for one of these is a good deal.

I'll answer your questions below:

1. DIY vs. non-DIY: I just installed a Icon suspension on a friend's '02 Tundra last weekend. He was in a similar place as you - some basic DIY experience (brakes and minor stuff, plus watching YouTube videos), limited tools, but not a hardcore wrencher. It took us the better part of 2 days and we used a laundry list of tools including a sawzall, 12-ton press (for wheel bearings - Tundra specific), slide hammer, breaker bar, ratchet wrenches, angle grinder, torque wrench set to 203 ft lbs, etc). The front suspension on these is not really that difficult to work on, but there was zero chance my buddy had the experience or tools to get this done on his own (and he admitted as much to me at the end of the job). At your level of experience, I'd only tackle this if you have a friend who has the tools/shop and time to help you - otherwise take it to a shop and pay to have it done.

2. As listed above, that ICON kit (at nearly $4K) is really overkill for your needs. ICON shocks ride great but also need rebuilds fairly often, like 20-30K. The external reservoir shocks are great if you are doing desert running, but really not necessary for a GX that gets driven for general use as a outdoor lifestyle vehicle. The billet UCAs are also overkill relative to other options that are a little more than half the cost. With a $4K budget and your listed uses, I'd suggest looking at kits in the $1500-$3K range (Bilstien 5100s, Eibach, Ironman FCP, Icon Stage 1 with aftermarket UCAs like JBAs, etc) and spending the rest of your money on skidplates, wheels, and rock sliders. That will give you a more capable and better looking rig. I have Ironman FCPs and they are great for a lifestyle vehicle GX, and also have a long rebuild cycle. The Stage 2 ICON kit (with JBA UCAs) we put on the Tundra rode frankly amazing and my friend loves it - and the kit came to under $3K total.

3. At 200K your whole suspension is going to be worn out. I'd suggest a lift kit that comes with UCAs (or buy them separately - JBA or SPC UCAs are reasonably priced), and then replacing everything else. In the front, that would be lower control arms (go OEM Toyota - and note that you'll probably need to replace the alignment cams), tie rod ends, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings. In the rear that will also be the sway bar end links and bushings, plus the lower and upper control arms. You can get all 4 rear control arms for around $150 from Rock Auto (Moog's), maybe a bit more for OEM Toyota arms. Aftermarket adjustable rear control arms really aren't needed unless you are hardcore wheeling.

 

[Banandalorian]

I've watched some YouTube videos, but I'm worried this may be too much and I'll get stuck in a position where I can't get the truck to a shop (no suspension hooked up or something).

Questions I have:

Is this doable for a novice?

Are there any special tools I need? I have a Rigid Compact and a Rigid High Torque impact wrench. Set of metric impact sockets up to 20mm. Full set of 3/8 & 1/2" craftsman socket set. 6 and 12 inch breaker bar. 6 ton floor jack, two 6 ton jack stands. Torque Wrench (100 ft/lbs). Other normal hand tools.

If you don't have access to more tools and a knowledgeable buddy, you are setting yourself up to get stuck halfway through and be unable to get the truck to a shop easily. An 18 year old truck with 200k miles has a reasonably high chance of something being rusted stuck or breaking while you are removing the old parts. If you don't have the means to deal with that, you shouldn't start the job yourself. The remote reservoirs in the Icon kit you like also complicate install as you have to figure out where to mount them and potentially make threaded holes in the frame. You also need a bigger torque wrench, ratcheting box wrenches, and some method of dealing with the springs.

I installed my lift with my buddy who is a mechanical engineer that does all his own auto work with a giant garage/shop with all manner of tools and spare parts and everything else readily available. We used multiple jacks to manipulate the rear axle to get the springs swapped, and then put rivnuts into the frame for my shock reservoirs. One of the bolts/brackets for my sway bar appeared to have been previously cross-threaded and if I were doing this in my own driveway I would have been stuck there all day trying to get new tools and know-how to fix it. Engineer buddy instead just grabbed something to drill the bolt out, had a thing to clean up the threads, and a drawer full of spare properly rated hardware to replace the bolt so this was like a 20 minute problem.

 

[PNWRoughRider]

First off, congrats on the purchase of your rig! $8K for one of these is a good deal.

I'll answer your questions below:

1. DIY vs. non-DIY: I just installed a Icon suspension on a friend's '02 Tundra last weekend. He was in a similar place as you - some basic DIY experience (brakes and minor stuff, plus watching YouTube videos), limited tools, but not a hardcore wrencher. It took us the better part of 2 days and we used a laundry list of tools including a sawzall, 12-ton press (for wheel bearings - Tundra specific), slide hammer, breaker bar, ratchet wrenches, angle grinder, torque wrench set to 203 ft lbs, etc). The front suspension on these is not really that difficult to work on, but there was zero chance my buddy had the experience or tools to get this done on his own (and he admitted as much to me at the end of the job). At your level of experience, I'd only tackle this if you have a friend who has the tools/shop and time to help you - otherwise take it to a shop and pay to have it done.

2. As listed above, that ICON kit (at nearly $4K) is really overkill for your needs. ICON shocks ride great but also need rebuilds fairly often, like 20-30K. The external reservoir shocks are great if you are doing desert running, but really not necessary for a GX that gets driven for general use as a outdoor lifestyle vehicle. The billet UCAs are also overkill relative to other options that are a little more than half the cost. With a $4K budget and your listed uses, I'd suggest looking at kits in the $1500-$3K range (Bilstien 5100s, Eibach, Ironman FCP, Icon Stage 1 with aftermarket UCAs like JBAs, etc) and spending the rest of your money on skidplates, wheels, and rock sliders. That will give you a more capable and better looking rig. I have Ironman FCPs and they are great for a lifestyle vehicle GX, and also have a long rebuild cycle. The Stage 2 ICON kit (with JBA UCAs) we put on the Tundra rode frankly amazing and my friend loves it - and the kit came to under $3K total.

3. At 200K your whole suspension is going to be worn out. I'd suggest a lift kit that comes with UCAs (or buy them separately - JBA or SPC UCAs are reasonably priced), and then replacing everything else. In the front, that would be lower control arms (go OEM Toyota - and note that you'll probably need to replace the alignment cams), tie rod ends, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings. In the rear that will also be the sway bar end links and bushings, plus the lower and upper control arms. You can get all 4 rear control arms for around $150 from Rock Auto (Moog's), maybe a bit more for OEM Toyota arms. Aftermarket adjustable rear control arms really aren't needed unless you are hardcore wheeling.

Thanks! I'll look into other options for sure.

 

[PNWRoughRider]

If you don't have access to more tools and a knowledgeable buddy, you are setting yourself up to get stuck halfway through and be unable to get the truck to a shop easily. An 18 year old truck with 200k miles has a reasonably high chance of something being rusted stuck or breaking while you are removing the old parts. If you don't have the means to deal with that, you shouldn't start the job yourself. The remote reservoirs in the Icon kit you like also complicate install as you have to figure out where to mount them and potentially make threaded holes in the frame. You also need a bigger torque wrench, ratcheting box wrenches, and some method of dealing with the springs.

I installed my lift with my buddy who is a mechanical engineer that does all his own auto work with a giant garage/shop with all manner of tools and spare parts and everything else readily available. We used multiple jacks to manipulate the rear axle to get the springs swapped, and then put rivnuts into the frame for my shock reservoirs. One of the bolts/brackets for my sway bar appeared to have been previously cross-threaded and if I were doing this in my own driveway I would have been stuck there all day trying to get new tools and know-how to fix it. Engineer buddy instead just grabbed something to drill the bolt out, had a thing to clean up the threads, and a drawer full of spare properly rated hardware to replace the bolt so this was like a 20 minute problem.

Thanks! There's a spot around me that I can rent garage space for a week so that may be a better option. Also has some tools available and regularly has people working in it, that seem friendly. May be worth checking that out first.

 

[PNWRoughRider]

Welcome, IMO for light to medium trails that's overkill and a lot of money. Example, my setup is 32.5" tires, 5100's Bilstein shocks, Dobinsons springs, Freedom off road UCA and OEM LCA. I tackle a lot of medium trails with ease. My opinion on remote reservoir shocks: unless you are running baja at moderate/high speeds, it's not worth the money. Just my two cents.

Thank you! I may keep showing around for different options!

 

[suitcase]

I'm just a hack myself, but have stumbled my way through various projects on other cars I've had. After watching many install videos and reading the forums, I felt fairly comfortable, but ended up taking it to a mechanic who did it as a side job while I helped (Dobinsons IMS, GX460). I think we got it done in about 4.5 hrs. After actually seeing the work involved I think it would've taken me two days as a newbie. I paid extra to have the front coils preassembled. I don't recall all the torque specs, but pretty sure there were things that needed to go above 100ft-lbs. Didn't need any special tools. Having a good buddy will definitely help especially when it comes to pushing the lower control arms down to fit in those coil overs. They're heavy and bulky. I'd also agree that remote reservoir shocks are overkill. I did a trip to Death Valley that included long stretches of washboard fireroad and the Dobinsons did fine.

 

[PNWRoughRider]

First off, congrats on the purchase of your rig! $8K for one of these is a good deal.

I'll answer your questions below:

1. DIY vs. non-DIY: I just installed a Icon suspension on a friend's '02 Tundra last weekend. He was in a similar place as you - some basic DIY experience (brakes and minor stuff, plus watching YouTube videos), limited tools, but not a hardcore wrencher. It took us the better part of 2 days and we used a laundry list of tools including a sawzall, 12-ton press (for wheel bearings - Tundra specific), slide hammer, breaker bar, ratchet wrenches, angle grinder, torque wrench set to 203 ft lbs, etc). The front suspension on these is not really that difficult to work on, but there was zero chance my buddy had the experience or tools to get this done on his own (and he admitted as much to me at the end of the job). At your level of experience, I'd only tackle this if you have a friend who has the tools/shop and time to help you - otherwise take it to a shop and pay to have it done.

2. As listed above, that ICON kit (at nearly $4K) is really overkill for your needs. ICON shocks ride great but also need rebuilds fairly often, like 20-30K. The external reservoir shocks are great if you are doing desert running, but really not necessary for a GX that gets driven for general use as a outdoor lifestyle vehicle. The billet UCAs are also overkill relative to other options that are a little more than half the cost. With a $4K budget and your listed uses, I'd suggest looking at kits in the $1500-$3K range (Bilstien 5100s, Eibach, Ironman FCP, Icon Stage 1 with aftermarket UCAs like JBAs, etc) and spending the rest of your money on skidplates, wheels, and rock sliders. That will give you a more capable and better looking rig. I have Ironman FCPs and they are great for a lifestyle vehicle GX, and also have a long rebuild cycle. The Stage 2 ICON kit (with JBA UCAs) we put on the Tundra rode frankly amazing and my friend loves it - and the kit came to under $3K total.

3. At 200K your whole suspension is going to be worn out. I'd suggest a lift kit that comes with UCAs (or buy them separately - JBA or SPC UCAs are reasonably priced), and then replacing everything else. In the front, that would be lower control arms (go OEM Toyota - and note that you'll probably need to replace the alignment cams), tie rod ends, sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings. In the rear that will also be the sway bar end links and bushings, plus the lower and upper control arms. You can get all 4 rear control arms for around $150 from Rock Auto (Moog's), maybe a bit more for OEM Toyota arms. Aftermarket adjustable rear control arms really aren't needed unless you are hardcore wheeling.

Hey, I was hoping you wouldn't mind fielding another question.

So I think I settled on the Ironman Foam Cell suspension kit, I'm back and forth between stage 1 and stage 2, I might go stage 2 to get the UCA as part of the kit, just to make life easier instead of piecing it all together.

One question I had though is regarding the lift these kit give. I wouldn't mind somewhere around 2-2.5" in lift, mostly for looks. But I noticed that Ironman offers the front in 2.5 or 3 inch but the rear is offered in 2" or 3". I'm guessing the rear is already offset by some degree but couldn't find much on the web about it. I'd like it to be even/level front to rear, but not sure which rear lift would make that happen. I'm guessing the 2.5" front and 2" read would be even.....?

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Hey, I was hoping you wouldn't mind fielding another question.

So I think I settled on the Ironman Foam Cell suspension kit, I'm back and forth between stage 1 and stage 2, I might go stage 2 to get the UCA as part of the kit, just to make life easier instead of piecing it all together.

One question I had though is regarding the lift these kit give. I wouldn't mind somewhere around 2-2.5" in lift, mostly for looks. But I noticed that Ironman offers the front in 2.5 or 3 inch but the rear is offered in 2" or 3". I'm guessing the rear is already offset by some degree but couldn't find much on the web about it. I'd like it to be even/level front to rear, but not sure which rear lift would make that happen. I'm guessing the 2.5" front and 2" read would be even.....?

You are getting good advice on this thread.

In terms of the lift, the front was about 3/4” lower than the rear from factory.

Over time, the front sags even more and you could be up to 2” lower in the front depending on how much sag you have.

So, a new 2.5” front lift and a new 2” rear lift should get you close to level but still have a little rake.

Measure the hub to fender distance prior to the lift and after. My guesstimate is that from the factory the front measured 20.25” and the rear 21”. I have friends whose stock front measured 19” on original front shocks and springs. Mine measures 22.25” in the front with Bilstein 6112s on 700# coils on the 3rd circlip. The rear varies from 22” to 23.5” depending on cargo loads.

And remember that a lift does not clear bigger fatter tires. So, if your next move is 33” tires…your wheel offset, wheel width, camber, and tire width will determine if you need a BMC or fender liner trimming.

 

[PNWRoughRider]

You are getting good advice on this thread.

In terms of the lift, the front was about 3/4” lower than the rear from factory.

Over time, the front sags even more and you could be up to 2” lower in the front depending on how much sag you have.

So, a new 2.5” front lift and a new 2” rear lift should get you close to level but still have a little rake.

Measure the hub to fender distance prior to the lift and after. My guesstimate is that the front measured 20.25” and the rear 21”. I have friends whose stock front measured 19” on original front shocks and springs.

And remember that a lift does not clear bigger fatter tires. So, if your next move is 33” tires…your wheel offset, wheel width, camber, and tire width will determine if you need a BMC or fender liner trimming.

Thanks, yes this threat has been great. Everyone is extremely helpful.

For tires I'll probably stick to stock or close too. The ones on there are A/Ts in good shape so its low on my priority list. My thought right now is that I want to stick with a size that will fit the spare in the undercarriage (stock compartment). Not sure if that will hold bigger than a stock tire, but not too worried about it for now.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Thanks, yes this threat has been great. Everyone is extremely helpful.

For tires I'll probably stick to stock or close too. The ones on there are A/Ts in good shape so its low on my priority list. My thought right now is that I want to stick with a size that will fit the spare in the undercarriage (stock compartment). Not sure if that will hold bigger than a stock tire, but not too worried about it for now.

Your stock tires will look too small on a 2.5” front lift with a 2” rear lift!

 

[PNWRoughRider]

Your stock tires will look too small on a 2.5” front lift with a 2” rear lift!

Oh for sure, I'll get to them eventually, but it came with Toyo open countries that only have about 14k miles on them. Kinda hard to justify throwing them out and droping 2k on new tires/rims right now.

 

[Rednexus]

I sold the nearly-new tires on my GX and uograded 2 days after buying it. Tires should really be your first mod. 265-70R17 tires will fit stock (including in the spare location) and are big enough to look OK with a lift.

It might be worth coming up with a budget and then working backward into your mods. Both HomersCanyonero and myself have itemized costs for what it actually takes to build, maintain, and repair these rigs (in our build threads). Unfortunately, it's more than you think . My costs are 100% DIY and would be quite a bit higher if the work was done professionally.