Surge brake lines (1 Viewer)

[FJ40Jim]

I've just finished throwing together a flatbed utility/car trailer. Well, nowhere near finished, but at least on wheels.
It has a DICO surge coupler and a single 5200# dexter Torflex axle w/ 12x2 hydraulic drums. Cruiser 6-lug pattern, of course.

Does anyone know anything about connecting the hydraulics? The brakes move, relative to the rest of the trailer, so there must be a rubber hose connection from frame to backing plate, but I don't know what should be used. A review of the mfgrs. websites was almost useless as far as brake line info goes.

I'm hoping there is some generic GM brake hose that can be used to make the connection from frame to drum. Trying to avoid buying the $100+ brake line kit for single axle boat trailer. LMK if this is a problem that can be solved w/ a simple trip to FLAPS.

Yeah, I know, TTIWWOP.

 

[John E Davies]

Look up Hydraulics in the Yellow Pages, drive on down and talk to the sales guys there. They can fix you up with what you need in custom lengths and it will be cheaper than $100 for sure.

What kind of car are you planning to tow on that small trailer... it looks a little short. Most car haulers are tandems for a reason... why a single?

And what is TTIWWOP? Sure sounds bad if you say it out loud....

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[KOWBOY]

My opinion is worthless ...

but here it is anyways.

I won't ever pull a trailer again with a DICO surge brake unit. I had white-knuckle rides on two different occasions pullin' a 10k lb boat/trailer behind a company truck. Both events were on snow/ice-covered roads. Instead of the surge brakes engaging during braking, the trailer just pushed the ass-end of the truck around. Not good.

As the units age, they also develop problems releasing when you try to back the trailer up.

I only tow with electric brakes now so I can control the trailer brakes.

Just food for thought ...

Good luck with the trailer build.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Look up Hydraulics in the Yellow Pages, drive on down and talk to the sales guys there. They can fix you up with what you need in custom lengths and it will be cheaper than $100 for sure.

Good suggestion. The problem right now is I don't even know what to ask for. I'll do some more investigating to see if the thread in the MC & wheels is double flare or crush washer or NPT...

What kind of car are you planning to tow on that small trailer... it looks a little short.

It can carry 4000lbs, so anything that will fit on a 12.5' trailer will be fine. VW, MGB, FJ40, junk cruiser carcasses to the smelter...

Most car haulers are tandems for a reason... why a single?

We got a super deal on the single HD axle & surge coupler at the local trailer store, so we said "Why not?"

It's a single made in USA axle w/ USA bearings, USA hubs, USA brakes, Toyota wheels (not the ones in the pic) and USA ST225/75R15 trailer tires.

The only failures I've ever had towing, was a korean tire and a china bearing. Good thing it was a tandem trailer. Seems necessary if using offshore parts.

I had a 16' flatbed tandem. Thought it was way too much trailer for my use, sold it.
Got a 14' flatbed tandem. It's still longer than I need, so it's for sale.
12.5' should be just right.

I also do a lot of towing around town, and going around a 90* right hand corner just about tears the tandem axles off a loaded trailer. Not a problem w/ single axle.

And tire/maintenance/brake costs should be reduced.

And what is TTIWWOP? Sure sounds bad if you say it out loud....

This Thread Is Worthless WithOut Pics.

 

[FJ40Jim]

I won't ever pull a trailer again with a DICO surge brake unit. I had white-knuckle rides on two different occasions pullin' a 10k lb boat/trailer behind a company truck. Both events were on snow/ice-covered roads. Instead of the surge brakes engaging during braking, the trailer just pushed the ass-end of the truck around. Not good.

That's why you shouldn't a gone boatin in a blizzard!

Point taken. Like I said, we got the whole package for next to nothing, so I'll try it.

I only tow with electric brakes now so I can control the trailer brakes.

I done some investigating, and it appears that the axle & drum is the same for elec or hydro brakes. The backing plates just get swapped out. So I can install complete electric backing plates for $120 if/when the hydro goes TU.

I'm leaving the elec brake controller in the tow truck, for sure.