Sudden No Start Problem (1 Viewer)

[t6dpilot]

So I drove my truck all summer and it ran great. Put a little Seafoam in it for storage a drove it around for a few days after that. Went to start it to take it to storage and it would not start. Tried several times and it finally fired. Drove it to the hanger, ran fine and parked it. Now it won’t start at all. Has spark and fuel to carb. Put starting fluid in the carb and it fires off. Spark is yellow ish orange. Had a new Kyosan new fuel pump so installed that. No go and very confused. I may change to new plugs to see if that helps. Very odd, it ran great then won’t start. Any ideas?

 

[gnob]

So I drove my trick all Sumer and it ran great. Put a little Seafoam in it for storage a drove it around for a few days after that. Went to start it to take it to storage and it would not start. Tried several times and it finally fired. Drove it to the hanger, ran fine and parked it. Now it won’t start at all. Has spark and fuel to carb. Put starting fluid in the carb and it fires off. Spark is yellow ish orange. Had a new Kyosan new fuel pump so installed that. No go and very confused. I may change to new plugs to see if that helps. Very odd, it ran great then won’t start. Any ideas?

possibly the fuel cut solenoid or computer running it is weirding out.

 

[lowtops]

I had the same issue with my '82. I had to use starter fluid to get it running. After starting it ran fine and would restart after it was warm, just no cold start.
I started diagnosis with the fuel cut solenoid as the previous poster mentioned but mine tested good.
My issue was the choke closer diaphragm. Luckily I have a parts carb and that one tested good so I just switched it out. Cold starts perfectly now.
Also, this is super simple to test. Pull the vacuum line, hook up a vacuum pump, and see if pulling a vacuum will close the choke. Mine would partially close and then open up again, it would not hold a vacuum.

 

[t6dpilot]

Thanks guys. Sounds like the choke closer diaphragm. I’ll look into that further. I did find some diaphragm looking device under the carb that has what looks like a vacuum port coming out of it. I’ll post a pic. Don’t know if it ever had a line and there wasn’t one to connect to it.

Where is the fuel cut solenoid?

 

[t6dpilot]

Here is a photo of that diaphragm housing.

 

[lowtops]

I don’t have that diaphragm on my truck or at least not in that location. I’m not sure what that is but it does appear to need a vacuum line.

Here are a couple of pics of the back of the carb, closest to the firewall. The first pic is the carb closer diaphragm and the second pic is the fuel cut solenoid.
You will need to remove the air filter housing to have better access to these parts.

 

[lowtops]

 

[t6dpilot]

Thank you so much for that. Very helpful. I'll take a look this weekend.

 

[t6dpilot]

So I took a closer look at the carb. The choke closer diaphragm seems to be working fine by my estimation. All vacuum lines are in good shape too. So as the truck sits, the arm that is connected to the diaphragm is all the way out and if I try pushing it in, it does not move. It gives a little, so that tells me the rubber is still pliable. If I disconnect the vacuum hose, I can push the arm in and it stays in that position when I reconnect the vacuum line. Also tells me that it probably is in good operable condition. For kicks I tried starting the truck in this position and still no go.

Doing a little more research, I saw a video on a 22R no start issue and he was looking at the float window showing the correct gas level. I decided to look at mine and darn it, it is empty. But gas comes out of the fuel line that goes into the bowl. Very odd. And when I tried starting the truck, I could not smell fuel in the barrels. Any further thoughts on this issue?

 

[gnob]

i wouldn't verify that fuel cut solenoid, especially with no fuel in the bowl.....

 

[t6dpilot]

OK, I ran 12V to the fuel cut solenoid and got no click. Negative side of the battery to the wire that is attached to the carb housing just above it (white, I think) and positive side of the battery to the terminal of the black/white stripe wire that goes into the round plastic terminal housing. I did not remove the solenoid to do this test. No go. I did not check for 12V in the circuitry (forgot), but will do that next.

I searched for the solenoid part number and they are not available. If it is bad, what are others using as a replacement?

Related note to the bowl not having fuel in it, I do not see any leaks anywhere. I'll bet the solenoid failed after I shut it down (closed) and won't let fuel into the system. Then when I tried starting it and pumping the gas pedal, that action drained the last bit of fuel from the bowl. How do you guys remove the solenoid? The space between the solenoid housing and carburetor housing is just a bit too narrow for my standard width open end wrench.

 

[gnob]

this should be the legit part.

did you check resistance across the terminals of the solenoid?
you may be quicker/better off digging around for a used carb or maybe rigging your solenoid open.


this site shows it, but it may or may not be legit. i ordered an nla part through them a few days ago, we will see how it goes. i have received order summary emails and they were promt answering another question i had. i did use PayPal in case it is not legit though.

21062-35010 Solenoid, Throttle Valve Toyota | YoshiParts

Buy Genuine Solenoid, Throttle Valve Toyota, 21062-35010. Worldwide shipping. Fits to: Toyota 4Runner, Celica, Corona, Pickup

yoshiparts.com

 

[t6dpilot]

Thanks for that link. They also have one that is correct for my 1981. Since it is a bit pricey, I went out and tested a couple more things with the voltmeter. Turned on the ignition to see what female connector had 12 V (the other three read 0V). This is the plastic connector that goes to the fuel cut solenoid. Matched that to the corresponding spade going to the solenoid and got it to click. So... at least I know the solenoid works.

Now what? I am back to square one as to why the float bowl is empty and the accelerator pump will not squirt fuel into the barrel of the carb.

 

[gnob]

if the solenoid is actually working its possible the float or float jet is stuck or clogged.
pull the supply hose and see if you can actually blow through it.
if the truck had been sitting it could be laquered up because gas these days is terrible.

 

[gnob]

i know these emissions computers have issues and they are unable to ground that solenoid.
so not sure that's what is going on with yours either but might not hurt to jump the ground for testing

 

[t6dpilot]

Finally had a chance to look at the supply to the carb. Hose is new as I replaced it when I installed the pump recently. I pulled the banjo fitting to inspect that and it is clear. Took a look at the inside of the carb entering the float bowl area and it too is clear. Studied the carb construction and the fuel enters the carb though that fitting into the float seat screen and into the float bowl I believe. Screen is clean and the area is clear. Odd that no fuel gets into the carb with no obstructions. I am baffled.