Subtank Switch Connector and Wiring (1 Viewer)

[VidereStudios]

I am in the final stages of fabricating and installing an auxiliary subtank into my 2001 LX470. It has been a long process and it is nice to know that it is getting close to being accomplished.

I purchased a OEM subtank switch from Dave at Japan4x4 awhile back. It did not come with any connector or wires.



Here is the picture of the top of the switch...



...and here is the picture of the bottom...

 

[VidereStudios]

I am trying to figure out what connector is the correct connector to use. Here is a picture of the backside of the switch:



I am working with Dave at Japan4x4 to secure the connector and wiring for this switch. I thought I would post up and see if someone already knew this information. The switch part number is 84560-60050.

I examined the electrical manual and it looks like to me that the connector is a F connector (p/n 90980-10933). Does anybody know if this connector will work here?



Finally, does anyone know what connection is what? There are four posts that are active to engage the connector. I am assuming ground, power, power out to relay, and power for light on switch. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

 

[mobi-arc]

I have the same switch which I got from Christo Slee. My recollection is it's a double-pole, double-throw but you should confirm that with a multimeter to determine which pins make/break connections when the is locked on and locked off.

 

[VidereStudios]

Mobi-arc, thanks for the input. I will have to try next week with a multi-meter to figure what pin is what. However, I still don't know what connector needs to be used here. Dave is looking in to it and I just sent him some further information a bit ago. I may have to give Christo a call and see if he (or Joe) has that information written down somewhere. Thanks again for the input.

 

[OregonLC]

Two of them will be for switch lighting via the dimmer switch circuit. Can't tell, but the switch may illuminate when pressed? Toyota's typically have a window on the switch for such light which I don't see on yours.

 

[mobi-arc]

I didn't use a mated connector. I tapped two points to activate a timer relay which then cause fuel to transfer from the aux. to the main for 10 minutes, then shuts off. That OEM switch in an OEM application transfers the input from the sending unit so the gas gauge changes from main to aux, and changes other things over, but mine is set up like a big, aux. jerry can.

 

[OregonLC]

That's probably it then: two for lighting, two for pump, two for gauge.

 

[100 TD]

I've played with a few of these type switches, and have one in my vehicle (OEM diesel with rear tank)
2 pins for "SUB" lamp, 2 pins for switch, single pole single throw, the 2 pins not extended are for illumination lamp which is not fitted/used, you can see the spot the lamp would go in, still has plastic in it.

 

[100 TD]

In the non USA spec vehicles that have OEM rear sub tanks, (2002 on, I don't think I have an earlier wiring diagram) the rear gauge inputs directly to the combination meter an is switched internally when the sub tank switched is pushed. It also switches the fuel pump changeover relay and lights up the "SUB" in the combination meter. The OEM setup also uses solenoids in the supply and return fuel lines which change over as well as a separate high pressure fuel pump so each tank is individually separate and works on its own, no transferring of fuel.IIRC I went down this track for Spressomon many years ago, I recommended a relay to swap the gauge sender units over and the fuel pumps when the sub tank was pushed.

 

[100 TD]

For what its worth, these subtanks come up on ebay AUS often, you could buy one and get the seller to pull the gauge and pump out and post them if you don't have them. The solenoids also come up, but a lot of the time when LPG is fitted they just cap the solenoid lines off and don't remove them.
Here's one now
www.ebay.com.au/itm/111088199574

 

[OregonLC]

This, as well as the cyclonic air filter assembly, is something I would think could be turned into a nice little import business for someone with the rite aptitude and contacts.

 

[mobi-arc]

IMO, the OEM subtank doesn't really justify the expense and hastle based on the little addition fuel it carries....especially in the US where there's no shortage of gas stations. The long ranger tank is frick'n huge in comparison. If memory serves, the OEM subtank is like 10 or 12 gallons.

This, as well as the cyclonic air filter assembly, is something I would think could be turned into a nice little import business for someone with the rite aptitude and contacts.

 

[VidereStudios]

IMO, the OEM subtank doesn't really justify the expense and hastle based on the little addition fuel it carries....especially in the US where there's no shortage of gas stations. The long ranger tank is frick'n huge in comparison. If memory serves, the OEM subtank is like 10 or 12 gallons.

Yeah, I agree. When I was seriously looking into sourcing a tank from overseas, it just became a huge PITA. Dave at Japan4x4 has been great to work with and getting the dual filler neck, switch, and connector (soon!) has been easy to do through him. Bringing the rest of the pieces to the puzzle (stainless steel subtank, fuel pump, filter, and relay) Stateside has been much easier. I am hoping to be able to supply these in a couple sizes that are made from Japanese and U.S. components. Things are in the final stages as I type this...

 

[OregonLC]

Agreed, but there is a certain coolness factor to having an OEM solution. And 10 or 12 gallons would be about a day's travel off road. And I'd think that harvesting OE stock out of retired trucks would be exponentially less expensive than a new design. With new, you've got huge testing and R&D cost. OE you just ship and sell. Further, from a safety perspective, I'd feel very confident that Toyota has a well engineered solution that would be crash-worthy. As I understand it, most tanks fail due to hydraulic forces of slosh on impact rather than a mechanical puncture.

 

[semlin]

videre, if you or anyone else feels like preparing a parts breakdown for this it would be of help. there is a potential group buy of oem subtanks underway right now and it would be nice to know exactly what we should be asking the oz supplier to pull. i can already guess there are solenoids, relays and other parts needed that we will need to be specific about.

also, i note you have an lx470. were you able to determine if the north american factory harness has any spare wires for the subtank? i have read that the lx450 harness does not.

 

[VidereStudios]

Agreed, but there is a certain coolness factor to having an OEM solution. And 10 or 12 gallons would be about a day's travel off road. And I'd think that harvesting OE stock out of retired trucks would be exponentially less expensive than a new design. With new, you've got huge testing and R&D cost. OE you just ship and sell. Further, from a safety perspective, I'd feel very confident that Toyota has a well engineered solution that would be crash-worthy. As I understand it, most tanks fail due to hydraulic forces of slosh on impact rather than a mechanical puncture.

I agree with all that you wrote. If the 10 to 12 gallon quantity had been sufficient for me, that is probably the route I would have gone. But I really needed more as I am setting up the 100 for international travel. OEM would be sweet, but costs and needs necessitated a different solution.

On other news, Dave found the correct connector and all the splicing, so that should be winging it's way from Japan early next week.

 

[VidereStudios]

videre, if you or anyone else feels like preparing a parts breakdown for this it would be of help. there is a potential group buy of oem subtanks underway right now and it would be nice to know exactly what we should be asking the oz supplier to pull. i can already guess there are solenoids, relays and other parts needed that we will need to be specific about.

I am not really doing an OEM setup...it is a transfer system that is just using the subtank as a big jerry can under the rig. There will be quite a few OEM parts, but no solenoids, fuel pumps, relays, etc. will be OEM. But I will certainly come up with a parts list for the OEM gear I end up using.

also, i note you have an lx470. were you able to determine if the north american factory harness has any spare wires for the subtank? i have read that the lx450 harness does not.

I am working on this. Now that the subtank situation has a solution, the electrical is the last hurdle. I am going through the LX this weekend to see exactly what is there. I will post up an update on this early next week.

 

[VidereStudios]

I've played with a few of these type switches, and have one in my vehicle (OEM diesel with rear tank)
2 pins for "SUB" lamp, 2 pins for switch, single pole single throw, the 2 pins not extended are for illumination lamp which is not fitted/used, you can see the spot the lamp would go in, still has plastic in it.

Thanks for the info! Much appreciated!