Stumped on installing tub

[Trunk Monkey]

So I'm kinda stumped on how to install the surround for this whirlpool tub. Where it's sitting now it's flush with the long wall (sitting against the studs), an inch from the faucet wall, and maybe 5" from the wall opposite the faucet. The lip of the tub looks like it should rest on a flat platform all the way around. However if I pull it out from the long wall enough to build a platform, it doesn't leave much room in front of the tub and would leave an odd valley between the tub and wall.

I'm guessing I should butt the tile up against the top lip on the long wall so it's an even seam? Then I should build a small shelf on the back end to take up that space. The faucet wall should be fine for distance with the width of backer board and tile.

Finally, how necessary is an access panel on the front? I don't see much that can be maintained and if the motor goes, the whole tub would be coming out since it's all PVC'd together.

And yes, that's Santa's hiding place - the only room in the house that's not finished.

 

[-Spike-]

Gotta have an access hole.

The directions should specify if it needs to be supported around the lip. Most do, and should also be set in a mud bed- but not all. It's very important to do whatever the manufacturer says, or no warranty for you. The tile should end up sitting on top of the tub. Did you rough-frame it according to the manufacturer's instructions? If so, the 1/2" material that you put on the studs (drywall, backerboard, whatever) should sit on the edge of the tub. If that's an American Standard, they sell a rubber piece that goes around the wall sides, to give the tub a lip. The tile should come down over the lip. Other manufacturers I don't know about. All that goes out the window if the tub is only designed to be set in a deck. Again, check the directions.

 

[haystax]

You should have a 2x nailer supporting the three sides that are framed and another small pony wall in the front unless there is a factory trim piece.

For my Kohler tub we wet set in a mortar bed and supported it w/shims until it set. You need to try to get the finished wall surface to be at least flush or a little proud of the tub lip. It may take a couple sheets of drywall or hardi to build the wall thickness out the the proper setback from the rim.

For the front, I left the pony wall a little short and slid hardi backer and the tile under the lip of the tub w/ just enough clearance for a small caulk line between the two.

No access panel for me, I know where to come in from the kid's room should the motor fail. GCFI is in the breaker panel, not in the plug. You don't want to knock a hole just to trip the reset

FYI - there are some magnetic systems that tile in place that give you acces or you can build a little cubby hole towel holder that slips in the void by the motor.

Good luck

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I didn't even think about needing access to the GFI outlet under there.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

That tub really isn't made to be tiled in. There should be a tile flange to prevent leakage at the tile to tub seam. Kohler makes a gasket for tileing in their deck mount tubs but it didn't work that well. You could mud in and tile over or lay marble over the top ledge of the tub to make it look under mount. There are ground faults that are only reset buttons without the outlets that can be mounted away fron the tub and control the outlet under the tub. You can use ground fault breaker too. If the motor backs up to another room you can cut an access panel from that room.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Update. I hates me some greenboard and backer board.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

How are you going to fill the gap between the end of the tub and the wall? If you leave it it will act as a gutter and any water that hits it will drain to the floor.

 

[haystax]

Is this a tub/shower or just tub?