Stripped Steering Arm Stud

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Hi Everyone,

I have a stripped steering arm stud on my 40 and I would like to weld it. Should I weld it from inside the knuckle?

Thank you.
 
If I was going to weld shut a tapped hole- I would start by getting all the crud out of the hole. Heating it to cook out any oil or grease. Using lots of brake cleaner (not while it is hot). Then heat the knuckle with an oxy-acetylene torch and slowly MIG shut the hole. Mill it off flat on top. Put the steering arm on as a drill guide and carefully drill and tap it back to original size. I don't think those holes are through-tapped. Unless you drill it all the way through I think you'll need to plug weld it from the top.








Or put a heli-coil in it.
 
helicoil, no question...MSC Direct has 'em...then weld from the inside if you still see the need (I did)

3 of 4 on both of my old knuckles were helicoil'd
 
Find a used one?

Ya, sounds easier than this:

If I was going to weld shut a tapped hole- I would start by getting all the crud out of the hole. Heating it to cook out any oil or grease. Using lots of brake cleaner (not while it is hot). Then heat the knuckle with an oxy-acetylene torch and slowly MIG shut the hole. Mill it off flat on top. Put the steering arm on as a drill guide and carefully drill and tap it back to original size. I don't think those holes are through-tapped. Unless you drill it all the way through I think you'll need to plug weld it from the top.

I agree with helicoil though.
 
Thank you for the responses.

What size helicoil do I get?
 
what size are the threads? ;) That determines the drill bit and helicoil kit that you will purchase :)
 
or to give you more to think about, go D44 studs and cones... hmmm...
 
or to give you more to think about, go D44 studs and cones... hmmm...
Do you have to have the arms machined to fit the cone washers?

How much meat is left between the outside edge of the knuckle and the hole after you do this?
 
Do you have to have the arms machined to fit the cone washers?

How much meat is left between the outside edge of the knuckle and the hole after you do this?

Yes its a different taper. Theres write ups on Pirate. I don't have a link off hand though. Not sure about the edge distance. Have heard nothing bad about it, they seem to stand up like the 6 shooters. I researched it a fare bit when I was steting up my front axle for SOA but never did it. I am going to see how the stock stuff holds up for now.
 
warpdriv... is it a large bolt pattern knuckle or a small bolt pattern...

if its a large find some mini truck knuckles...
if small search the classifieds...
i do have several sets of the small pattern knuckles... dont know what shipping would be like from here to texas though
 
Kyle at northwestfab once told me they would helicoil for strength in some case?

True or false?

Helicoils are stronger because they put more surface area on the threads for the insertn (because of the larger diameter but same threads per inch) and the insert is stronger than the parent metal. So yes, it is stronger.
 
A couple years ago when I build the engine for my tbird, I heli-coiled all the holes for the rockers in both cylinder heads. The difference was quite amazing, you could actually feel the strength difference when putting the bolts in. It essentially took an 8mm bolt and gave it the same loading in the tapped holes as a 10mm bolt.

Heli-coil the hole, and never look back. Use some red locktite when putting the heli-coil in and let it set for a while, then use it as normal.
 
or to give you more to think about, go D44 studs and cones... hmmm...


I don't like this, not much meat left on the knuckle, actually weakens the design. Keep the arms tight and when you first put it together make damn sure all the surfaces are very clean, free of grease, you will have no problems.
 
can't say without one in my hands, but my mantra is that it is a bad idea to wheel the small pattern junk.
 

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