Storage tips. vehicle storage?? (1 Viewer)

[Defuzer1]

about to leave country again and will have to store land cruisers.

plan for now is to put on auto dollies inside shop.

anything special that needs to be done. would Stabil help at all? (carb'd 1FZ)..

planned on running tanks down and disconnecting battery

other line of thinking was to sell 80 as I am probably going to upgrade to 200 when I get back while restoring the 70.

any tips for storing would be appreciated and I have already spotted a few 70's where I am going for sale, just have to keep saying 2 LC's are enough.

 

[YMT]

Draining the gas tank will allow it to rust. Store it full, then drain the old fuel when you return before starting it. You will find mixed opinions here about seafoam, but I use it in my tanks when I have to leave a vehicle sit for more than a month (I currently have my two FJ80s stored).

Disconnect the battery. Or plan on replacing when you get back.

If you set your emergency brake for storage, it can seize, and then the vehicle will need to be rocked forward and back to get it to release (this happened on my daily driver when I had it stored for 2 months).

Otherwise, just be ready to deal with some minor maintenance as soon as you return.

 

[Tools R Us]

Yep, full tank, disconnect the battery or use a battery tender. If indoors, leave windows slightly open, don't leave fish or cheese, etc, in it!

 

[BILT4ME]

I do a fair amount of old car storage.

ANY time I am going to store a car or truck, fill the tank with NON-ethanol fuel and drive it enough to get the non-ethanol circulated through the system. Preferably do this numerous times to eliminate as much ethanol from the fuel system as possible. Ethanol absorbs moisture and will corrode the tank where it settles out in the bottom, usually around the fuel sock and pump.

Placing a vehicle into storage:
1) Wash and wax the vehicle prior to storage, but drive it around enough to make sure it is 100% dry before placing in storage. You may do this 2-3 days prior to storing.
2) Check your coolant mix (while the engine is cold) to make sure it has an appropriate mix for the temperatures your storage area will experience while you are away. If your coolant is two years old, or will be by the time you get back, flush and change your coolant so it is fresh.
3) If your transmission oil is 3 years old or it will be 3 years old by the time you get back, do a transmission flush and filter change. This is to eliminate moisture and acids from the oil. Same with differentials and transfer case. Can also do this with the brake fluid flush and fill (brake fluid is hygroscopic and attracts moisture. If brake fluid is 2 years old, it should be bled and fresh fluid put in.
4) FILL the tank with non-ethanol, add the appropriate amount of Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer and drive around a few miles to mix it and circulate it. More Sta-Bil is OK to use. It will smoke when you restart out of storage.
5) Do a fresh oil and filter change after you have done your drive around, but run the engine enough to circulate the fresh oil. This is to remove the acids and any moisture from the oil and inside the engine. If it sits with the old oil, the contaminants in the old oil will acid-etch the crankshaft bearings.
6) Lay down heavy mil plastic sheet on the floor, large enough to encompass all corners of the vehicle. This is to reduce the moisture coming up from the concrete. (Wood and concrete hold moisture, so minimize direct contact)
7) Park the vehicle on top of the plastic on level, dry surface storage, on concrete if possible.
8) Change all the air vents (defrosters, etc.) to the "recirculate" position. This will close the vents to the exterior of the vehicle to reduce rodent and insect intrusion. Close all windows and sunroofs.
9) Raise the vehicle and place jack stands under the axles on all four corners to take the weight off of the tires. Get the tires at LEAST 5" off the floor (more is better). I have seen mice stretch up, climb the tire, and get into the engine compartment (*** see note below). If you want, you could reposition the jack stands and set them under the FRAME in order to allow the suspension to be unloaded the entire time as well. However, that can sometimes allow the frame to sag and you may end up with ill-fitting doors once the vehicle is sitting back on its suspension (I had this problem on an old Studebaker).
11) Open the hood and place mouse / rodent bait in multiple areas under the hood and engine compartment. Especially near wiring harnesses and on top of the battery. I usually place at least (4) under the hood, (4) inside the vehicle, and (6) under the vehicle.
12) Place the mouse / rodent bait inside the car, usually on the floor mats, one in each passenger position, and one in the cargo area or trunk. If it's an enclosed trunk, like a car, then maybe (2) or (3) in the trunk.
13) Place the mouse / rodent bait under the vehicle, strategically located under the car, near the points the rodents will attempt to climb up.
14) Disconnect the POSITIVE cable of the battery and make sure it is secured away from the post so that it won't ease its way back over to the post while it sits.
15) Close the hood, but only latch the first safety latch, in case moisture sets in or high humidity would seize the hood cable, you could still get it open.
16) Check the tire pressures to make sure they are even, and possibly a little low. Leaving them pumped up tight stretches them and they have more of a tendency to split over time if left pumped up high.
17) You can then place a car cover over the vehicle to keep the top clean. If it is outdoors, the cover MUST be UV light resistant AND it must be VERY tight fitting, as any loose area will flap and beat the paint off that area of the car. Make sure the car cover does NOT hang at all because it will allow a place for a rodent to grab hold and climb. DO NOT USE NYLON OR PLASTIC TARPS. Many times, plastics or blankets or whatever is laid on top of the car will absorb and hold moisture or it will trap moisture under it and cause the car to rust or the paint to bubble. "Breatheable" car covers that have Goretex or other PTFE laminates in them are usually good, but you get what you pay for with car covers.

If you plan on a trickle charger for the battery, remove the battery from the vehicle and keep it away from the vehicle to prevent fires.

Do not leave windows cracked open or a door or trunk lid open. Do not lock the driver's door unless you REALLY feel it's necessary. In long-term storage, people will have time to break windows, jimmy door locks, or steal parts, so minimize damage and leave it unlocked if in a relatively secure location.

Leave a key (and key fob) with the car or person in charge of the car or facility. If you leave a key fob, remove the battery and place in a small Ziploc bag on the key ring so it does not corrode in the fob while you are away.

When you shut down the engine, do NOT race or rev the engine before you shut it down, as that can wash the cylinder walls with fuel and dry them out.

You CAN pour oil into the throttle body or suck it into the engine through the PCV port enough to kill the engine. That will create a LOT of smoke, but it will coat the cylinder walls with oil and protect the engine better for long term storage.

You can also pull the spark plugs and squirt about 2-3 tablespoons of engine oil into the cylinders after shut down. This will help keep the rings free and the cylinder walls from rusting.

Do NOT use tire shine or interior cleaning products such as Armor All on tires or interior plastics or rubber prior to storage, as it dries out the rubber and will cause weather checking and dry rot during storage.

You CAN use moth balls inside, under the hood, and in other areas as well, HOWEVER, they cannot be in direct contact with plastics or rubber. Sit them in a glass cereal bowl on the floor or seat. The moth balls will cause a nasty order over time, but you will have to let the car sit with open windows for a LOT of time in the outdoor heat in order for the mothball smell to fully dissipate.

***If you have LOTS of rodent possibilities (such as out on a farm or in a wooded area) you can do the super-duper rodent protection:
A) Buy (4) 5-gallon buckets (or (4) large tubs) with smooth, straight exterior walls (so mice cannot climb them) that are at LEAST 12" tall and are large enough for your jack stands to sit in.
B) Cut off the top of the bucket, just below all the ribs, but short enough so the top of your jack stand will exceed the top of the cut off bucket. Hopefully, this will be 12" tall or taller after the modifications.
C) Drill (6) 1/4" diameter holes around the circumference of the bucket just above the bottom (for water drainage). Do not make the holes any larger or it could allow very small rodents int the bucket.
D) Sit the jack stands INSIDE the buckets or tubs.
E) Place the jack stands and tubs under the vehicle and let it down onto the stands. If you are doing this on a dirt floor, you will need to place plywood or a set of blocks under the bucket and under the feet of the jack stands in order to prevent the jack stands from poking through the bottom of the bucket.


During storage, do not start the engine, run for 15 minutes and then shut it off. This will only undo what you've done for long term storage and it will introduce moisture into the system and actually make it worse. You should only start the vehicle with the time and intent to bring the entire vehicle up to full operating temp, including the transmission and the axles.

When removing the car from storage:
a) Remove all the car covers, mouse bait, moth balls, and other stuff from inside , under the hood, in the trunk, and under the car.
b) Using a flashlight, do a visual inspection under the hood on the wiring harnesses to make sure rodents did not damage the harnesses. Do this BEFORE you hook up the battery so you don't light something on fire! Repair any damage before hooking up the battery. Also inspect the interior for rodent intrusion.
c) Check the surface of the plastic for obvious leaks, drips, or catastrophic leakage issues. Fix any serious issues.
d) Check the fluid levels (coolant, engine oil, transmission oil) for correct levels and for cross-contamination. (I have seen a head gasket start a leak during storage and had antifreeze sitting on top of the oil when I pulled the dipstick.)
e) Install the battery (or clean the posts and clamps and reattach the cable)
f) Step on the brake pedal to apply the brakes and listen for brake actuation. Make sure the pedal does NOT go all the way to the floor.
g) Attempt a start on the vehicle (yes this is BEFORE you take it off the stands)
h) Start the engine and place it in drive with your foot on the brake. Gently ease your foot off the brake and allow the drive train to start moving. Allow it to rotate and slow speeds for about 5 minutes. This will gets everything lubricated again with minimal loads. Do this at idle or a little above. Do not race the engine. You must make sure that all drive line and tires are clear and the car is stable before doing this.
i) Check the tire pressures to make sure they have enough to support the car. Sometimes, air pressure can go down during extended storage.
j) Jack up the car and remove all jack stands and buckets.
k) Clean up you mess and drive the car. Take it to a car wash. Might be worthwhile to check to make sure all electrical items work such as wipers, headlights, taillights, brake lights.

You can do all or some of the items listed above to whatever your desire is. If you placed a car in storage as listed, it should be in great shape for many years (or your money back for my FREE advice!)

Then again, we always see the perfect stories of the 62 Corvette found in a barn with 56 miles on it, parked there by the sons that drove it home and went off to war and died. The guy came in, bought it for $200, got in it, started it and drove it home! BTW, that's a fairy tale!

I have learned the stuff above by doing stuff wrong for many years. I learned what worked for me and what did not. There is a lot of mis-information out there, and maybe some in here, but what the hell it was good reading wasn't it?

 

[96FZJ80]

or sell it before you go and get the 200 when you get back