stock transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 9, 2020
Threads
13
Messages
205
Location
Bay Area
I converted my stock transmission cooler into a power steering cooler keeping the cooler in the stock location (and stacking the mountain passes off road transmission cooler "on top." I have no way of verifying or measuring temps. I just assume that "something is better than nothing."

PXL_20210320_040532085.jpg



here's the view of the 2 cooler sandwiched on top of each other, but there's no physical contact.

PXL_20210322_002056286.jpg


this is the driver side power steering rubber line that resides right under the bumper cover (OEM replacement parts number 4440635021). it was more fresh than the one on the passenger side. this was removed to route the lines to the cooler itself. I routed the lines such that the flow path went from the top of the cooler to the bottom of the cooler.


PXL_20210322_002306034.jpg


this was the cracked passenger side rubber line (OEM replacement parts number 4441735011). since the driver side line was more fresh, I reinstalled it over here.

to minimize mess, I clamped the hoses before I removed them and reinserted a hose immediately, that was also clamped.


PXL_20210322_002120275.jpg


just a final picture for context, this is the line that leads from the passenger side front rubber line, to a metal line that goes deeper into the engine compartment and leads to this hose which ends up in the reservoir.

the reservoir was changed at the same time. notes on the reservoir swap would include, USE A FUNNEL. it seems like there's ample room to angle the bottle and pour, but there isn't so just use a funnel. pour very slowly. I cannibalized the rubber isolators from mine for future projects.


for flushing the power steering fluid out, I just used the passenger side front rubber line, disconnected it and slipped a larger internal diameter hose over it to route the fluid down into a drain pan.

do remember to jack the car up and manually bleed by turning the wheel lock to lock while adding dexron 3 transmission fluid to the reservoir. my fluid was extremely burnt, so I ended up bleeding everything out.
 
Last edited:
next was the routing of the lines to the cooler. it took me a lot of attempts to find the right type of hose to get all the right bends. turns out I needed to look no further than the stock transmission "warmer" lines.

I also installed a koyo all aluminum radiator and this deletes the factory transmission warmer. in order to bypass that system, the stock line was cut and routed to the other hard line. this then left 2 (technically 1 and a half, since one was cut to bypass) Toyota factory rubber hoses (which will then fit toyota factory constant tension clamps). I used these hoses to route the power steering cooler lines.

PXL_20210418_205541547.jpg



PXL_20210418_205607854.jpg



as can be seen, one of the factory transmission warmer lines already has a rubber hose protector on it to shield it from the tight spacing between the two sandwiched coolers / brackets. this line had to be cut to length.

PXL_20210418_205549359.jpg



the outflow line was addressed by the stock transmission warmer hose that has a nice I bend in it, cut to length.

all connections are made with the factory hose clamps.

if I were to redo this process, I would have just ordered all new clamps and all new transmission warmer hoses so this would not have to be revisited for many years.

part number for factory constant tension clamps 90466-16004. these go by a lot of different names and numbers in different places in the transmission cooling schematics, but this is it.

part number for transmission warmer hoses 32921D (longer), 32943B (shorter). shorter hose is the one that was cut to bypass the transmission warmer.

a note on reusing hose clamps on old hoses, it's probably best to clamp near one of the ferrules of the hard line. either push the hose onto the deeper ferrule and clamp there or just put the clamp near the ferrule on the end of the Hardline.
 
Last edited:
Great write up!!! Thanks for taking the time and pictures.

A couple questions for you:

1. Is the soft hose diameter the same throughout? So you could order 6 or 8 of the OEM hose clamps and cover everything you need?

2. Would you say removing the front bumper cover is required for this job?

3. Why did you decide to keep the factory hard lines? Seems like you could go straight back to the reservoir from the Cooler outlet.

4. Am I reading correctly that you didn't actually have to order any parts at all for this? just scavenged hoses? If I'm not replacing the rad with the Koyo what hose would I need?

Anyway, thanks again for the write up!
 
Great write up!!! Thanks for taking the time and pictures.

A couple questions for you:

1. Is the soft hose diameter the same throughout? So you could order 6 or 8 of the OEM hose clamps and cover everything you need?

2. Would you say removing the front bumper cover is required for this job?

3. Why did you decide to keep the factory hard lines? Seems like you could go straight back to the reservoir from the Cooler outlet.

4. Am I reading correctly that you didn't actually have to order any parts at all for this? just scavenged hoses? If I'm not replacing the rad with the Koyo what hose would I need?

Anyway, thanks again for the write up!

thanks for the questions

1) the factory hoses are the same diameter and will work with that same clamp. note: for the upgraded transmission cooler, I had to use the power steering line clamps as they're single thickness spring steel instead of double. this was because the clearance between the Hayden transmission cooler bracket and the transmission cooler nipple was too tight to rid a clamp that was too thick.

2) required. don't try to do it without removing the bumper cover entirely. it just creates a lot of frustration.

3) I kept the hard lines so I wouldn't have to run as much rubber and so I could get the right bends without using hose menders. I didn't want excessively large loops of hose routed around. consequently, this was true for the transmission cooler hard lines as well.

4) I probably didn't have to order any parts for this power steering cooler repurposing project. I did, but now looking back, I probably didn't have to.

if you're not replacing the Koyo aluminum radiator, the transmission warmer hoses and hose clamp numbers are above and below.


part number for factory constant tension clamps 90466-16004.

part number for transmission warmer hoses 32921D (longer), 32943B (shorter).
translines_914f1deaba33605b717b5193b8c2ae7ea8a26675.jpg
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom