Sticking Caliper?

[NicB]

Hi guys,

I have a 2002 LC with 145k miles on it. I had some pulsation in the brakes earlier this year and had the dealer turn the rear rotors, which helped dramatically. However, my problem seemed to persist albeit to a lesser extent. I thought the front rotors might need turned as well; however, upon closer inspection today, it appears to me that the front rotors are perfectly fine without any pad material on the rotor surface.

I also noticed the pulsation is getting worse. In fact, it's not really a pulsation but a tugging / uneven / hopping sort of feeling when applying the brakes. It feels like I am towing a trailer with independent brakes whenever I apply braking force. I started hearing a groaning / creaking when releasing the pedal coming from the rear right. Over lunch I looked back there and saw oil residue collecting on the rotor shield. Also smells like burnt oil.

My new theory is that the caliper is shot and sticking / not releasing, which causes uneven braking force that results in my symptoms. I now think the front rotors are perfectly fine.

What do you guys think? How hard is it to change a rear caliper on an LC? Is an OEM caliper the way to go or will aftermarket suffice? Should I change one or both calipers at the same time?

Thanks in advance,
NicB

 

[anhizer]

I just had a similar issue with my rears. I didn't have any issues with the pulsating/groaning but i had uneven pad wear from the pass side to the drivers side (drivers side was shot, pass side was fine). It sounds like you might have a piston leak which is likely very dangerous. I replaced both my calipers with units from rockauto (cardone rebuilds iirc) (i think they were something like $60 ea after the core charge) It has been suggested by numerous people on the forums to replace the pads with factory units but I was in a rush and purchased some wagner ceramic "oe" style pads. They seem fine and stop alright. I also got some cheaper rotors but im kinda regretting that decision (see below). Another reason sticking pads occurs is worn break lines. I put some braided stainless lines in for only a few bucks more than the original rubber style (i put all three lines in (LR, RR, and center).

As brake jobs go its easy and straightforward. helps to have a FSM for torque values and such. One thing to mention- the braided lines i had has a burr or scratch on the banjo bolt (the loop portion) which caused a little bit of a leak. I had to remove it and file down the part until it sealed properly.

I have also been chasing an issue with the parking brake. I replaced the rotors instead of having them turned which requires you to adjust the parking brake. I adjusted the star wheel per the FSM but didn't do the bellcrank adjustment. I think this step is important and will probably have to tear mine down to do it again properly. It doesnt seem difficult but adds to the amount of work thats needed.

Lastly, to bleed the brakes properly you need to bleed the ABS system too. I suggest taking it somewhere for that, but there are people one the forums who have detailed a process involving locking the brakes up.

on a side note, it might be easy to determine where the oil is coming from. Turn the key on and have someone mash on the pedal. You might see some oil weeping from the piston (back side pad) or from one of the brake lines. Any leaking in the braking system is BAD, so you should really deal with it sooner rather than later.