Steering rack replacement - short shaft. Help with pictures of your shaft to rack connection.

[Dmi]

Hi, I'm in a weird situation, where FSM doesn't help. Replaced the steering rack but can't hook it up properly to the intermediate shaft #2 (45203 ).

It is just not enough of the length, about 1". I can still force it and stretch the heck out of the rubber (between 90201-11313 and 94612-10601) doesn't feel right. Also the gap between yoke washer 45817 and firewall wasn't there with the old rack.

My yoke (45219 on the diagram) length is 2 1/4" and intermediate shaft #2 is 17 7/8". I checked with my local dealer, they were generous enough to order shaft just to take measurements and the new shaft has the same length as my old shaft. Same about yoke.

So I'm asking for help, please post a pic of how your shaft connected to the steering rack and if you have a gap by firewall just to confirm I'm not crazy and it's not how it supposed to be. Or if you have any advice, please share. I'm about to cut and weld a piece of metal to add up some length to yoke.

Rack is mounted with standard bolts to standard holes, no issues with the frame, no crashes. Old rack was leaking in this place (picture), I'm thinking because of this problem, If you force it to connect with the shaft, there will be quite a bit of force on the rack shaft pushing it down to misalignment and wearing off whatever components are holding it in a rack case.

 

[scottydj2]

Hi,

When I refitted my rack I found the easiest way was to center the rack, then unbolt it to allow enough room to wiggle the bottom end of the shaft on. Then drop the bolts through to hold it and check number of turns lock to lock. Then remove bolts, wiggle off, adjust splines and try again. Then bolt up the rack.

I had both ends of the shaft loose so it could slide up and down at the firewall end as well. And I also had a gap.

Hope that helps.

Scott

 

[Dmi]

Hi,

When I refitted my rack I found the easiest way was to center the rack, then unbolt it to allow enough room to wiggle the bottom end of the shaft on. Then drop the bolts through to hold it and check number of turns lock to lock. Then remove bolts, wiggle off, adjust splines and try again. Then bolt up the rack.

I had both ends of the shaft loose so it could slide up and down at the firewall end as well. And I also had a gap.

Hope that helps.

Scott

No matter what I do there is no way to stretch the shaft, I can slide it over the rack shaft, by loosing the steering rack bolts, lifting the steering rack up so it will go all the way in to the ujoint and then clamp the steering rack down with its bolts, this way it pulls a lot on that rubber bushing between shafts (interior) and the gap is way big. It's also harder to turn the steering wheel this way.

 

[scottydj2]

Sorry, misunderstood.

I have a larger gap at the firewall end. Have you loosened the shaft at the firewall end?

 

[Dmi]

Yeah, it has the notch for the bolt to go through so if slide it down I won't be able to get the bolt inside. Maybe I should take a picture of the interior part where two shafts meet through the rubber. I bet you have a bigger gap because that rubber thing is stretched out.

 

[mmm635]

Hi, I'm in a weird situation, where FSM doesn't help. Replaced the steering rack but can't hook it up properly to the intermediate shaft #2 (45203 ).
View attachment 1908193
It is just not enough of the length, about 1". I can still force it and stretch the heck out of the rubber (between 90201-11313 and 94612-10601) doesn't feel right. Also the gap between yoke washer 45817 and firewall wasn't there with the old rack.
View attachment 1908196
View attachment 1908197
My yoke (45219 on the diagram) length is 2 1/4" and intermediate shaft #2 is 17 7/8". I checked with my local dealer, they were generous enough to order shaft just to take measurements and the new shaft has the same length as my old shaft. Same about yoke.

So I'm asking for help, please post a pic of how your shaft connected to the steering rack and if you have a gap by firewall just to confirm I'm not crazy and it's not how it supposed to be. Or if you have any advice, please share. I'm about to cut and weld a piece of metal to add up some length to yoke.

Rack is mounted with standard bolts to standard holes, no issues with the frame, no crashes. Old rack was leaking in this place (picture), I'm thinking because of this problem, If you force it to connect with the shaft, there will be quite a bit of force on the rack shaft pushing it down to misalignment and wearing off whatever components are holding it in a rack case.

Can you post a pic of your rack as a whole, including the connections. I just finished installing an oem rack (my second) and never ran into this issue. Are you sure the rack is the correct part number - the body could have differences how it mounts to the frame.

My LX is still up on the rack at my shop. I can take some pics of mine, as well as the old rack sitting on the floor this evening.

 

[mmm635]

 

[Dmi]

Thank you for your pics, looks your car is a bit younger than mine. By the look of the yoke washer cover. Shouldn't be any difference at shaft length I think. Dealer checked the VIN code and rack part number - match. You didn't have any problems sliding the shaft on the steering rack? Looks perfect.
Here are some more pics, one of them with the rack bolted to the frame.

 

[mmm635]

Not at all. It was tough getting it out, but it went in very smooth with no adjustments.

Does your steering shaft have the adjustable link similar to the one in my second pic? If so, maybe the adjusting nut was loose and it slid back during removal of the rack.

 

[Dmi]

@mmm635 thank you for inspiring the mind flow in the right way, I couldn't take the yoke off that link so I just tightened it back assuming it will work because the old shaft use to seat like that and then forgot about it. Well, after your "adjustable link" words I gave that thing a second thought and decided to take the yoke off of it no matter what. I ended up taking the whole assembly from the interior side, out, just to be able to put the shaft in a vice and use a hammer to take that yoke off. Almost no rust on the truck but this two parts welded together.
Cleaning the splines with a pick and soaking them overnight in the metal rescue rust remover from home depot brought parts to a condition where they would slide easily onto each other.
Couple things discovered if someone will find this useful. There is a boot inside of that assembly, that acts as a double oil seal but for the dust/moisture on the adjustable link. Part number is 45026-60010. Grease on the engine side of it dried out and caused the seal to rip off from the boot rubber body introducing elements into the insides of the assembly and inner seal. Could be a good practice to check this with rack replacement.
Taking the assembly off is pretty easy, two bolts with nuts hidden under the plastic cover are holding the adjustable link together with steering wheel shaft. Then 4 bolts to take it from the firewall. It was harder to pull all the insulation off.
Metal rescue works, if you get the grease and loose rust off first. Make sure to clean splines very well, even the smallest particles will make it hard to put everything together, back in the engine bay.
I will put everything back together tomorrow and post an update here.
I didn't took any pics prior to cleaning, so here is some pics of cleaned parts and ripped seal.

Yoke

 

[Dmi]

Works like a charm now.

 

[TICOF THE TOC]

HI DMI I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT THE FIX WAS??
IM IN MELBOURNE VICTORIA AND NEED TO SOLVE THE SAME PROBLEM ASAP
WHAT IS THE Lexus Part No.: 45848-60010

 

[Dmi]

HI DMI I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT THE FIX WAS??
IM IN MELBOURNE VICTORIA AND NEED TO SOLVE THE SAME PROBLEM ASAP
WHAT IS THE Lexus Part No.: 45848-60010

The part number is for new boot seal, which was ripped apart in mine. I took the whole assembly out from the inside of the truck. It's located tight above the pedals. Let me know if you need some pics.