Started the engine, put in reverse and my cruiser is dying...

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Left the office at lunch, went to grocery store and then back in the LC, started fine and put in reverse - then the engine sounded like it was firing on one cylinder, put in drive and parked. the oil light, brake light and one other on the far left were on. Turned off the ignition - engine con't turning, sounding like it was on one cylinder; finally it stopped. Sat for a minute, turned the key and it started just fine, put in gear and acted like nothing ever happened. Oil level is halfway on dipstick, plugs, wires, rotor done less than thirty thousand ago. Also replaced starter contacts, rad flush/fill, pcv valve/grommet and both valve cover tubes/hoses. I am losing oil, light comes on between 1200-1500 miles, using mobil 1 syn 5w-30; no drips or blue smoke - plan on changing valve cover gasket soon.

So any ideas on what happened?

Thanks, Nelson
 
drnls said:
Turned off the ignition - engine con't turning, sounding like it was on one cylinder; finally it stopped.


Kept turning on the starter or run-on, as in dieseling?


all the lights turn on when the starter hangs, soem people do not hear or mishear the running starter as it sounds diffrent without load.
 
Raven - not sure about the dieseling thing. Didn't hear the starter con't to turn. thanks Nelson
 
Some possibilities:

1. Starter contacts (maybe starter was still turning and you didn't notice until you turned it off?)

2. Alternator is on its way out? (this might explain the lights)
 
alaskacruiser said:
Some possibilities:

1. Starter contacts (maybe starter was still turning and you didn't notice until you turned it off?)

2. Alternator is on its way out? (this might explain the lights)


Sounds like the alternator is going. Have you tried having the brushes cleaned?
 
Nelson,

Did you replace the plunger, or just the contacts? I ask because I replaced the contacts only 30,000 miles ago on the 93 and I've had two minor starter incidents. Both no starts (turn key and nothing).

On the new truck, I put in contacts and plunger, and I'll never do this procedure again without replacing the plunger as well. Got one sitting on the workbench for the 93.

This sounds like starter.

DougM
 
Did not replace the plunger and I'll look at having the brushes cleaned - how is this done? thanks for all the ideas. Nelson
 
drnls said:
... and I'll look at having the brushes cleaned - how is this done? thanks for all the ideas.

Don't bother cleaning alternator brushes. They are dirt cheap and you have to remove them to "clean" them so you might as well install new ones.

Mine were approx 50% worn at 140k miles. I replaced them with new ones as PM. No alternator problems before or since. The procedure is in the FSM. Some have said you can do it without removing the alternator. My alt had to come off for another project so I installed the new brushes while it was on the bench.

-B-
 
A failing ignition switch can also do what you described - happened on my 60.
 
That really sounds that the alternator is on it's way out. That hiccup is a symptoms of failing alternator. Go with what B said and you will be okay.
 
Mine had very similar symptoms and it turned out to be a loose belt to the alternator.
 
So why would a failing alternator cause the truck to keep running when he turns the key off?

That sounds more like bad starter contacts or the engine is dieseling to me.
 
I'm going to order new contacts/plunger and brushes tomorrow. Could anyone explain dieseling? Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions. Nelson
 
Dieseling - engine runs on after ignition turned off due to hot spots in cylinder continuing to ignite fuel. Not likely to happen with fuel injection because with key turned off there should not be any fuel injected in to cylinders. Was not an uncommon experience with mid or late 70's engines with carbs that were set to run way lean to meet emission requirements. Some carbed engines were band aided with fuel shut off solenoids to mitigate the problem.

Modern fuel injection and computerized engine management has banished the problem.
 
>> Modern fuel injection and computerized engine management has banished the problem. <<

That's good to know Rich. I never thought about it but sounds reasonable.

Still I don't see how the alternator would cause the engine to keep running unless power was required to shut off the engine. That would seem wierd to me.
 
I agree with Riley that it sounds like a hung starter, not the alternator. I was just clarifying that if he opens the alt then he should replace the brushes instead of trying to clean them.

-B-
 
Good point Rich, no engine driven fuel pump and no carb = no Dieseling,

I thought of it because "Key off running on one cylinder" fit the description.

Dead alt would fit the lights but not running after key off, hung starter fits both.

So it pretty much has to be the starter hung, or the ignition switch? Ignition switch problems happen less often than starter contacts.
 
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I had almost identical symptoms on my 3FE back in the day. I had installed the snorkel, lifted the aircleaner top too high, and barely split the air hose that connected the EFU manifold to the mass air flow sensor. If you recently had your air filter changed, you might want to look into this. Everytime I shifted into reverse, a vacuum leak occurred, causing the engine to run horribly if at all. Upon shifting into drive, it ran perfectly. I found the leak by shifting into reverse, letting it sputter, while holding an unlit propane torch over all possible places for a vacuum leak to occur. With the propane on really low, and holding it up to the leaking hose, the engine sat right up and ran normally. Remove the unlit torch, and it would run like heck again. All sorts of lights were coming on, but I can't remember which lights specifically. It was quite a few years back. The 1FZ-FE is different, but similar enough to the 3FE to look into this as a possible solution. Good luck.
 

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