Spring perch crack/leak 96 T100

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Well, one of the worst issues I found with my new to me T100 is a leaking axle housing at the spring perch.

It was fully disclosed to me last weekend when I purchased it. I was a little nervous about it, but it is not the end of the world of course. The guy I bought it from had the oil changed and had the rig checked over last week. The inspection noted some slope in the steering idler, which I confirmed last night, and a leak on the rear axle, at the spring perch. The shop, to the tune of $211, fixed it by running a new bead of weld on the front and rear weld/interface of the spring perch to the axle. I saw the fresh welds at purchase, it looked fine so I was okay with it.

Well after driving it home, and around, I was checking everything over very thoroughly last night and found it is still seeping there, evident with fresh oil accumulation and dust.

I need to clean it up real good and see what I can see, but is there more I should do to fix this? Or did I just get taken.

Any advice would be appreciated, truck is in excellent shape otherwise, pics soon I promise, still in the checking it over stage.
 
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I need to clean it up real good and see what I can see, but is there more I should do to fix this? Or did I just get taken.

I wouldn't call it a common problem, but there have been those who experienced a cracked spring perch on the passenger side. Basically the recommended fix is welding it again.

Not sure if yours was a rush job or why you're still experiencing seeping...? A re-weld is your best option unless you want to fork over $$$ for a new housing.

I'll PM you some links you may find useful (if you haven't already found them).
 
Thanks for the link, good information, I'll have to look through it.

I don't mind trying to weld it up, I'm, just unsure of welding there, and if the extra welding across the tube itself will only make the tube more brittle and prone to cracking more. I'm also wondering if anyone did any reinforcing in that area and what is recommended.

I have a good wirefeed welder, is that sufficient. I'm a pretty good welder, just not a pro, so I'm unsure of proper applications of welding techniques. Guess I looking for a pros advice here on the proper approach for this repair.

I'm thinking of taking the U bolts and stuff off, so the entire perch mount is accesible and running a three pass bead all the way around the perch. Does this sound good. I don't want to warp anything, or as I said above, over weld it and make the tube weaker.
 
Anybody have fresh insight on this. I never did repair it, it continues to seep. Hasn't been a big deal, just haven't had the time to to do it.

Been having a dream of swapping out the whole thing for a daimond axle with 80 series large diff and full float with discs and ebrake, would be a heavy duty axle for a pickup. Probably overkill, wouldn't crack again though.
 
Well, minus getting a whole new housing, the welding trick would be the way I would go.

I hope you are keeping a good eye on the rear diff level, it should be within five mm of the bottom of the fill plug.
Lower than that it starts to starve the pinion bearing of lubrication.

Loose spring u bolts are what I've seen cause this.
 
Probably not that good of eye, checked it this spring, seemed full enough, good color. Should probably change it. Rear diff seems a tad loose anyway, 158,000 miles. But it keeps going fine.

U bolts don't seem loose, but hard to tell. Are these reusable, or should I replace, regarding these particular bolts. I can't remember what the FSM says on it. I know generally you should replace them, that is one reason I did not take them loose and try a fix yet. They are in the way to really weld it up, and it seems the shop that did the work, worked around them.

I'm thinking it needs the bolts taken off and jacked up off the spring a bit to really clean it up and weld it up right.

Other concern is the oil inside. Guess not a big fire concern if I minimize heat buildup. Or should I tear down at least that side and try to wipe it out a bit?
 

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