Spontaneous 2F Engine Ring Failure...

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You might be right. Wow..good call. I will take somemore pictures tonight. When I removed my carb a few months ago the vacuum passage bolt I think they call it was missing out of the carb. It is the one that you screw into the bottom straight up to the carb body. I am positive it was missing when I removed my orginal carb. THe bolt I found was a flat head screw and I will check tonight to see if it was hollow.

Thanks Jim

I will try and take the bolt out of my new rebuilt carb to compare it to or if anyone has a pic of this bolt can they post it.

FJ40Jim said:
Pictures are kinda fuzzy, but that looks like the carb throttlebody to mainbody screw. It is a hollow machine screw, 6x1.00mm, goes up into the bottom of the carb. it could fall out of the carb if it was loose. Has the carb ever been off the truck?

The bent pushrod came about when the piston was approaching TDC on the exhaust stroke and the bolt got between the piston & the still open exhaust valve.

It definitely has not been rattling around the cylinder for 10 years. a foreign object that size will destroy things in a matter seconds at 2500RPM. It could have been laying underneath the carb for some time, then finally got out of the depression under the carb and worked it's way up to the intake port.
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I just looked at the vacuum passage bolt on my new rebuilt carb and it is identical to the mashed up bolt in my engine. The bolt must of fell out before I changed the carb and then slowly moved down to cylinder # 2 and though the intake valve like Jim said.

Thats a big relief to know where the freakin bolt came from. :doh:

Lesson learned... When you pull the carb make sure the vacuum bolt is still there or if it is not make sure it in is not in the manifold. :eek:

Could of been worse. my engine was close to needing a rebuild anyways.
 
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jwest said:
Why are there two head gaskets on the motor?

.
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There are? I did not notice that. As far as I know this is the orginal engine from Toyota.Maybe the PO blew a head gasket and they installed two on it.


:confused:
So which route should I go with?

1. Try and rebuild my engine. (I will have all the machine work done by a local engine builder.)

2. Find a low-mileage 2F engine with great compression.

3. Other??
 
Kevin

If you do the rebuild, and know the guys doing the machine work, then you will know what you have for sure.

If you buy a 2F, you're going to start off with an engine with 100K plus miles, or one that was 'rebuilt' by someone you don't know, seems to me.

If you put a different type engine (SBC?) in the 60, you are starting an open ended project that IS going to cost you some serious money.

Another alternative would be a 13BT Diesel.

My choice would probably be to do the rebuild on the 2F.

M
 
If you stick to a refresh the cost won't be too bad. If you do a rebuild, you're looking at 1000s. Toss some rings and bearings in there for a few hundred and drive it. If you are going to go whole hog, or even start down the road of "I really should do this while I'm in here" just toss a $4000 rebuilt in there from Jasper or Man-A-Free.

I got a mess of standard size pistons if the cylinder walls didn't get scored.
 
How are the cylinder walls? Any gouges that will catch your fingernail running around the bore?

How is the intake seat on the cylinder with the bolt in it? Any damage? Are the valves bent as well as the push rod?

If the cyl. walls are good, and the head isn't too badly screwed up I would suggest rings all around and freshen up the head. You already have the pan off, check the rod bearings for wear also. Your 70% into a rebuild right now.

Oh, and maybe an oil pump just for good measure.
 
sixsracing said:
How are the cylinder walls? Any gouges that will catch your fingernail running around the bore?

How is the intake seat on the cylinder with the bolt in it? Any damage? Are the valves bent as well as the push rod?
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The cylinder walls are smooth from what I have seen. The valves don't seem to be bent or damaged. I am not at all looking to just patch it up to get it running again.I want to fix it for the long haul and know I have a solid engine for many years. I am thinking a low mileage engine for the cheaper route since it has never been rebuilt and was assemblied by Toyota. It has about 60K on it or that is what they said with good leak down test >95% they claim for $1500. But it is true I really don't know what I have unless I have it rebuild locally by someone that knows the engines which will probably be around $3000. :doh:


I am also thinking about calling around and finding a local engine builder that can do the machine work and maybe help me but actually assembly it myself to save some money and also have fun rebuild a engine. With the factory engine manual and you guys I should be good.
 
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I have had really bad luck with used engines. I won't install them for customers anymore unless they pay me to tear them down and go through them.

Unless this motor was smoking, knocking or using oil I wouldn't have any problem re-ringing it with fresh bearings and some minimal head work. I understand the concept of a total rebuild but the thing was running. Why go to the expense and time? Your call though.
 
sixsracing said:
I have had really bad luck with used engines. I won't install them for customers anymore unless they pay me to tear them down and go through them.

Unless this motor was smoking, knocking or using oil I wouldn't have any problem re-ringing it with fresh bearings and some minimal head work. I understand the concept of a total rebuild but the thing was running. Why go to the expense and time? Your call though.
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That is a good point. Don't need to spend anymore money then I need to but want it to last.Why would more be needed if it was smoking, knocking, or using oil?

So without even pulling the motor I could replace:

1.piston
2.rings
3.main & rod bearings
4.I have a new OEM oil pump.
5.Take the head to an engine shop for rebuild?
6.Replace just the one push rod or all of them? Could the lifters be damaged?
7. All new gaskets

What else? :bounce:
 
Sorry to read this. that is a nasty way to loose a motor. Here is my 2 cents.


I did a $150 rebuild on my f eng. years a go and it was great! new rod+mains+rings and a refresh on the head and a case of brake clean(new gaskets of course). The only thing I did wrong was not replaceing the cam bearings and the cam set. Subsequently lost oil pressure after three years of driving it hard about 60k miles. I could still go down the road at 70-75 but my (real) oil press. guage read 0-scary. It never grenaded though I just got nervous that it would and replaced it.

If your short on cash do the budget build it really will last suprisingly long but if you got the dough I'd do it all as new as possible that way like you said there's no question.
 
Smoking:could be caused by grooves in the cylinder wall, boring the cylinders or replacing the sleeves (if this motor has them) would require removal of motor.

Knocking:could be caused by excessive crankshaft endplay, bad main bearings, bad crankshaft, any of which would require engine removal to repair.

Excessive oil consumption:see "grooves in the cylinder" note above.

Unless there is notable clearance between the guides and the valves or you have a valve seat that has been compromised I wouldn't necessarily have the head done by a machine shop. You can lap or re-grind the valves yourself. There are differing opinions on this procedure. Some are of the opinion that lapping the valves does not preserve the valve to seat seal that machining does. IE angled valve job. I personally agree with this for high performance applications, I don't feel that this motor requires that kind of precision.

Remove the push rods and measure them for lateral runout and length. If all within specs. then replace the bent one.

Lifter(s) could be damaged. You said you were never happy with the noise after adjusting your valves. Maybe this would eliminate the issue. Check the FSM to see if when replacing the lifters requires the replacement of the cam also. This could be pricey. Some do, some don't.

Certain motors (most) require crankshaft removal to replace main bearings, I don't know if this procedure can be done "in vehicle" for your application.

Sorry about the long post, tried to answer all of your questions at once.

Cam bearings is an excellent point also.
 
sixsracing said:
Sorry about the long post, tried to answer all of your questions at once.
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That is very helpful. Thanks
 
sanjuancruiser said:
The only thing I did wrong was not replaceing the cam bearings and the cam set. Subsequently lost oil pressure after three years of driving it hard about 60k miles. I could still go down the road at 70-75 but my (real) oil press. guage read 0-scary. It never grenaded though I just got nervous that it would and replaced it.
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I can not see how but is it possible to change out the cam bearings and cam set with the engine in the truck? Does the cam come stright out the front when it is pulled so if you pulled the rad. could you do it?

Just got me thinking. Learning all the engine rebuild still.
 
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