Spidertrax Wheel Spacer Installation_Front

[ed94r]

For my 1998 LX470...

I bought a set from a member here and all is well. Unfortunately, the set did not come with instructions for mounting the front machined spacer. I tried to install the fronts this morning and, no matter how i clocked the spacer, it would not sit flush on the hub/rotor hat. It seems the mounting of the front spacers amounts to more than the typical 5 minute job. Is the 100 cruiser and LX equivalent to be able to mount the spacers?

Torque values for the spacer and wheel would be nice to know as well. Can anyone assist?

-Ed

 

[Slickspawn]

I used 95 ft lbs.

While the fit isn't ideal you may have to fiddle a bit. Is your hub a bit corroded by any chance?

 

[ed94r]

I used 95 ft lbs.

While the fit isn't ideal you may have to fiddle a bit. Is your hub a bit corroded by any chance?

Thanks for the reply...The spacer is a good 1/2" from seating, no matter how I clock the spacer and this is with with the hub nuts/washers removed. The idea of pulling the spacer onto the hub face by installing the nuts and torquing them down did occur to me, but I didn't do it for fear that I would not be able to remove the spacer if all did not go to plan.

In my experience, wheel spacer sit flush without any coercion. This is perplexing to me..unless the LX hub is not the same as the Cruiser. The spacers look exactly as the spacers sold on Slee, with the special machined "nubs" on the hub bore...

-Ed

 

[hoser]

Picture? Are front and rear spacers identical?

 

[ed94r]

Picture? Are front and rear spacers identical?

I know you are likely asking for a picture of the interference location, but unfortunately the truck is all buttoned back up for mall cruiser duty at the hands of wife.

Attached is a PPT picture that I hope is visible, with arrows pointing to the interference areas. These areas and the hub hardware/studs are trying to occupy the same space no matter how I clock the spacer.

To answer your question, the rear and front spacers are different. The rears look like traditional hubcentric spacers.

Thanks
-Ed

 

[jcrandall]

I had a similar issue with mine when I put them on. Someone more in tune with the engineering side of life can probably verify what I'm saying. I think over time, particularly the hub, can kind of wear and very slightly bend and misshape itself to kind of match the other parts of the truck. In addition, since the removal method of the cone washers is to smack them, at least mine have some nicks.
I know you said no matter which orientation they wouldn't seat flush, but are you sure you tried them all? We're talking about variances so small you can't really see them. For a data point, it took me like 8-9 attempts to find an orientation that worked, and the I remember having to tighten one hub nut (the 10mm? I think that hold the cone washers) to get everything to line up. But eventually the spacer sat flush and all was well and still is.

 

[ed94r]

... In addition, since the removal method of the cone washers is to smack them, at least mine have some nicks....

Thanks. When you speak of "cone washers" what specific washers are you speaking of? The washers on the hub studs, or something else?
Do you recall the step work instructions that you followed when you did your install? Do you recall specifically whether the instructions stated to do something (anything) other than slipping the spacer on the wheel studs like 99.9% of other spacer installs?
-Ed

 

[hoser]

I don't experience with those but after trying all 5 positions on the spacer, did you try the other 5 positions on other spacer (same hub)?

 

[ed94r]

I don't experience with those but after trying all 5 positions on the spacer, did you try the other 5 positions on other spacer (same hub)?

Good question and I did not. I thought about it afterward, but the variances shouldn't be that great part-to-part. I'll try it anyway as a sanity check...
I did look closely at the spacers to see if they were (marked) side specific, they are not.

 

[jcrandall]

Thanks. When you speak of "cone washers" what specific washers are you speaking of? The washers on the hub studs, or something else?
Do you recall the step work instructions that you followed when you did your install? Do you recall specifically whether the instructions stated to do something (anything) other than slipping the spacer on the wheel studs like 99.9% of other spacer installs?
-Ed

I mean the cone washers that are just behind the nuts that hold the hub together. A common technique, and one I've used, to get these out is to smack the studs with a hammer. To protect the threads, most people leave the nuts loose but on the studs. This protects the threads but can obviously dent the nuts.

Some here must have the instructions, maybe Slee will be willing to upload a copy, but no I don't recall anything before sliding them on, lock tite, and torquing them.

 

[HFDPNL]

They do have to be clocked correctly, i.e. it matters which lug fits in which hole for the hub flange nuts to clear the little nubs. There was a specific orientation where my flange nuts slipped between those nubs exactly.

EDIT: Although I didn't have to change anything but clocking, I would bet you might have to tighten one or more of your flange nuts, like jcrandell said.

Here are the instructions, but doesn't look like they speak to anything specifically...

 

[HFDPNL]

Here's a close up of what we're all talking about with the flange nuts and the nubs on the spacers.....

 

[duggy]

How @HFDPNL has his spacers pictured is how I have mine also.

 

[ed94r]

I ended up placing the fronts on the studs, and torquing the nuts down to "seat" the spacers, clocked as seen HFDPNL's post. They're probably going to be a bear to remove...But the results look great and I feel the stability of the truck at highway speeds is improved. No wobbles/vibrations. Thanks to all who contributed!
Picture:

 

[bozncsurf]

Glad to see you got these on. As you lift the truck the front wheels begin to "pinch in" - the spacers just brought them back out. Looking good.

 

[ed94r]

Glad to see you got these on. As you lift the truck the front wheels begin to "pinch in" - the spacers just brought them back out. Looking good.

Yes, It looks good enough that I'm reconsidering replacing the wheels...and sticking with the stock 16's. Thanks for the pain free transaction Matt!

boznsurf=A+ seller

 

[jcrandall]

Yes, It looks good enough that I'm reconsidering replacing the wheels...and sticking with the stock 16's. Thanks for the pain free transaction Matt!

boznsurf=A+ seller

I did the same. Unless something has changed since I looked into it, tires are more reasonably priced for 16" than 18" rims anyway. Also, I will never understand working to achieve on road performance on the LX/LC. What I mean is, yeah larger wheels should reduce some squishy cadillac type feeling, improve cornering, probably braking etc, but wouldn't most of us rather have more sidewall? It's not like you can put 22s on it and all of a sudden it performs like a GT-R. Even for someone who doesn't get off road as often as I like, when I do I appreciate the larger sidewall.

 

[Drogon]

I ended up placing the fronts on the studs, and torquing the nuts down to "seat" the spacers, clocked as seen HFDPNL's post. They're probably going to be a bear to remove...But the results look great and I feel the stability of the truck at highway speeds is improved. No wobbles/vibrations. Thanks to all who contributed!
Picture:

What tires size are you running in this picture?

 

[ed94r]

What tires size are you running in this picture?

Half worn Nitto TG's. 285/70-16 fairly sure...The Slee Lift, spacers, tires, and running board removal made the truck look right in my eyes. No mas cosmetic mods for me...maybe some LED aux lamps for those late night drive homes from the track, and some UCA's to get the camber corrected and I'm done (yeah right).
-Ed