So you want to install an aftermarket HU + Amp + Sub.....

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Joined
Jan 15, 2011
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Location
san jose, ca
howdees all....

did my stereo install a few years ago - but figured i should get off my lazy duff and post a pic / how too.

here is my replacment HU -

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-rGfXB9oUcaw/p_105KDX80BT/JVC-KD-X80BT.html

highly recommend it - fully iphone / itunes compatible - even can play music via bluetooth (excellent sound) - 2 USB outs (very rare) and 3 RCA outs (Front, rear, sub) - decent EQ and Xrossover bulit in.
indeed no CD player - but nuts to that when you gots 5000+ songs on your phone.

first up - removal of stock HU. - behind the top "useless" slot and behind the ask tray are 4 small phillips about now you are going to want to put the keys in "acc" and silde back your gear selector.
now you are ready to pull out the entire HVAC bezel and unit - it remains attached to all the harnesses so it only comes out a bit not completely out.... unplug most of the harnesses (HVAC x2, Hazards, Defrost, Power Atennea) - the HU has 4 phillips (brass colored) that mount is to the dash itself.
quick tip - unscrew them - but leave them in the holes - they are slightly pitched backwards so once loose - you should be able to pull out the HU with the screws in the bracket.

Again - dont jerk the HU out - it is still attached via the harness (grey) and antenna - once those are unplugged you can pull out the HU.

you will thusly be left with this....


for those still with me - there are 2 unused white male harnesses - remember these - we will be using them in a bit....

next up the factory "Amp" - it is located right behind the glove box / passenger knee speaker.
simply drop the glove box down (2 back plastic) clips - and volia here it is - and unplug the 2 harnesses.


Now with the toyota amp unplugged - we will go to wiring up your new HU to the factory harness...

you will need this harness adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Harne...?ie=UTF8&qid=1425685393&sr=8-1&keywords=TA02B

Notice anything ? 2 white Female plugs ????

connect these plug to those 2 aforementioned plugs that we not connected to anything before,
you will now no longer be using the grey harness - it was attached to the factory amp - and remember you just unplugged it.


Now since i choose to run an Amp - i had to run a RCA & a 12volt turn on wire behind the dash.


Note the Blue wire - you can "tap" this along with the stock harness Blue wire - which gives remote power to the atenna motor - i did not - so now my antenna no longer works - but since am / fm radio is all but dead - no bother....

now you thusly "prep" you new HU's harness....


and then connect color to color..... i wont bore you with what exaclty is what - but basically these are your power, gnd, remote, and speaker wires.


now you are ready to plug in the HU harness - plug in the RCA - hopefully too you took off the mounting brackets from the stock HU and place then on the new HU...

because too you are going from a double-din to a single din unit (unless you want a gaping hole)
pick up one of these....

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_081TOYPOC/Metra-88-00-8000-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121

obviously if you are getting a double din unit...ignore.

so loosely mount the new HU back and give it a test. again dont remount fully it just yet - not till youre sure it fully works....even if you have the stock speakers - you should have sound - test the fader and balance to be sure you got it all correctly wired.... if the the power, gnd, remote are not wired properly the HU wont turn on - but speaker wires can be crossed and still function -


Hazaa.... rocking out to Pearl Jam....!!!

dont worry about the color - we will tackle that - now it is time to plug all the harnesses back up and secure the HU and but the HVAC bezel back on screw it up - replace the "useless" drawer and put the ash tray back in....

now we can adjust the color settings on the new HU and volia - green to match OEM.


Ok now remember that RCA cable and the blue 12v turn on ??? that i ran behind the driver dash, under the sill plates carpet and under the driver seat and under the parking break boot.
installing a car amp also requires 12v power. this you will need to get from your battery.


Note the red wire (8 Gauge) fused from battery - though the fire wall...


also under the sill plate care - following the RCA.

although you wont see it - an Amp require GND too - most car audio people DO NOT recommend taking it from the battery directly - i simply loosed one of the bolts that hold the seat belt - sanded away the paint and grounded my amp there -

so now my amp is good to go.... i have RCA + 12v remote from the HU and Power (from the battery) and grounded...


i had to push forward the car alarm "black box" - but other than than - my amp fits 100% below the dirver seat - completely steath....now you see it...now you dont....


so my amp is what will be powering my speaker box....i thus ran a set of speaker wires under all the carpet - under the back seats - all the way to the back PS "trunk" panel - where the "stock" sub/ speaker is at. - it too has some sorf of Toyota Amp - just remove it all and unplug the harness (worthless). from here i built myself a small 6" sealed sub box - for those curious

it is here - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7ZwYN1BQWKc/p_2060CVT654/Kicker-10CVT654.html

sadly it is tough to find - you might be able to fit a 8" sub box back there - but it would be on the smaller size.....if i recall the volume of my box is around .33 cubic ft. anyways - here is my min box - even carpeted with some fabic...


and just like my amp....now you see it....now you dont...


and yes it is tucked away behind that panel......thus i have not lost any storage space or have some big speaker box in my back area....

for those "uniitiated" sub-speakers require a specific volume to properly operate - you cannt just build any box and think it will work....simply look for "volume required" or goggle "small volume sub enclosure" and you might find something else....

just did a quck search - and found this...

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20640CWR84/Kicker-40CWR84.html?tp=111

tis 8" sub - using only .35 cubic ft. - might be a good fit....
anyways...sub-box building is a whole other topic all toghther - but if you want to know more - just hit me up...

hopefully this helps out some folks....i didnt cover my speaker replacement - as that is fairly simple -
i believe the pioneer TGR series still fit beneath the stock grills and the only major "mod" one has to do for the back door speakers is simply cannibalize the stock speakers / mounts and attach the new pioneers to the cannibalized brakcets then the stock grill fit over just fine....

if you have more questions about replacement speakers - go here...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hi...replacement-behind-stock-grille.163991/page-9

again hopefully this someone out - tis not a tough job - requiring no more than a phillips and some basic wiring tools and crimps -definitely (even an amp installation) is not something to pay a shop for.
granted the speaker box takes some basic carpentry skills and saws and math (to calculate volume and displacment) but by no means rocket science....

as always fee free to drop me a line if you have questions or need RTH or if you are in the bay area and want real help - just let me know....

bF
210k and rolling
 
This is great! I've been working on a fiberglass sub box for a while now. The weather has me behind. Wish I'd have had this a month ago, Lol. Nice work.
 
Nice job!

I did mine a year ago and just used simple plain butt connectors behind the dash for a quick and dirty job. This year I'm going back in to redo it with proper Ancor brand adhesive lined heatshrink butt connectors for a more permanent job.
I already had 4 gauge cables running to the back so I tapped them with a couple feet of 8 gauge for the amp. Then of course I had to run all new 16 gauge speaker wire instead of the factory stuff to components in the front doors. I'll eventually put coaxials in the rear doors.
Then I threw in a 12" sub in a 1.2 cu-ft box behind the drivers seat (no 2nd row there).

The only question is, I used the factory power wire for the Pioneer HU because I'm not using the HU's power section. But should I run a direct line from the battery anyway? Would the 5v preamp outs benefit in any audible way from a 12 gauge line from the battery?













It's a nice HU...






My favorite features:
  • 28-Bit floating point DSP makes for highly precise signal processing with very little degradation
  • L/R independent 16-band EQ is great
  • Automatic time alignment with the use of a microphone corrects time offsets
  • Three 24 bit DACs. One each dedicated for high, mid and low frequencies
  • And let's not forget... the fancy system voltage display ;)





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