So I've gone this far... (1 Viewer)

[primer7]

So it started when I wanted to remove the PTO Winch to start rebuilding the winch, which then led to why not drop the front grill to see how bad the rust is, which then led to well since i've done this much I've been wanting to clean up the cooling system so let's pull the radiator which has brought me to this point...SO...I have new hoses, and a new thermostat, question is while I'm at this point what else "Should" I do. Was thinking of the water pump, but it seems fine.

 

[primer7]

Some more pic's

 

[WILLD420]

I think you should give up while you are ahead. I can give you my address and you can deliver that rusty old worn out pile to my house and go buy a new FJ, I'd be glad to put it out of your misery by parking it in my yard...

Seriously though. It's looking great. I don't thing there is anything else for you to do while you're there.

 

[primer7]

Nah, I like the old ones...well now a diesel would be cool.

Stuff headed to the Pow-Da Coat'R ASAP.

Question, looks like the fan shroud was Plated and not painted, does anyone around here do metal plating?

 

[primer7]

ANother question, why is this bolt different then the others, looks as though something else was here at one time.

 

[fj4play]

i am assuming you purchased a new t stat, when you did, did it come with a new upper gasket

 

[WILLD420]

The shroud looks galvanized. I doubt anyone around here has the capability anymore, but you might get lucky. Normally whenever I restore galvanized stuff, I go buy the best "Cold Galvanizing" paint I can find and do it at home. It's got a lot of zinc or some other thing in it that really makes it look like the original stuff and it's tougher than regular paint.

That weird bolt might have had some use at the factory or the dealership. Most times a bolt like that held something or was a secondary mount for something optional. If you don't like the look, a regular bolt can replace it nicely.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Sierra Welding sell the right paint. I'd try Apex Anodizing first though, they may have an alternative to the zinc galvanized finish.

The shroud looks galvanized. I doubt anyone around here has the capability anymore, but you might get lucky. Normally whenever I restore galvanized stuff, I go buy the best "Cold Galvanizing" paint I can find and do it at home. It's got a lot of zinc or some other thing in it that really makes it look like the original stuff and it's tougher than regular paint.

That weird bolt might have had some use at the factory or the dealership. Most times a bolt like that held something or was a secondary mount for something optional. If you don't like the look, a regular bolt can replace it nicely.

It's pretty easy to test a thermostat, all you need is a pan of hot water an instant read thermometer and to get you spouse out of the house far an hour or so. In my experience wimmens get weird when you start using kitchen stuff, in the kitchen, to work on cars. Probably no need to replace it if it opens at the temp stamped on it. But do make sure to have both gaskets when you re-install the thermostat.

i am assuming you purchased a new t stat, when you did, did it come with a new upper gasket

 

[primer7]

One of my messy oil leaks is from the timing cover area, I know the crank pulley is pressed on, but how hard is it to get the pulley back onto the end of the crank? I would really like to replace the timing cover gasket and the output seal.

 

[rusty_tlc]

One of my messy oil leaks is from the timing cover area, I know the crank pulley is pressed on, but how hard is it to get the pulley back onto the end of the crank? I would really like to replace the timing cover gasket and the output seal.

The hard part is getting the nut off. IIRC the pulley is a slip fit with a key, of course it will be rusted in place.

 

[primer7]

No nut on the old F engine, FSM just shows a picture of a dude with what looks like a BFH and a big socket to smack the pulley back on.

 

[chicago]

No nut on the old F engine, FSM just shows a picture of a dude with what looks like a BFH and a big socket to smack the pulley back on.

Wouldnt you just need a big ass 3 jaw puller to take it off?
That would be one thing I definitely would do if you are down that far and its a known leak. That would drive me nuts for sure.

Could also paint the engine bay...Im just sayin....

 

[primer7]

Yeah, getting the pulley off should go fairly easy, but putting it back on is what concerns me. Hitting it back on with a hammer is what the manual says, one concern is if I don't get it back on correctly major damage could occur when the engine is running. Forum talks about removing the pulley, but no posts on re-installation.

 

[WILLD420]

Measure the depth of the crank in the pulley with a dial guage or micrometer, then when you go to re-install it, you will know how far to drive it back on.

I would take a little emery cloth to the crank snout and the bore of the pulley. Then put a couple drops of blue loctite on the bore when you drive it back on.

I would probably use a brass drift to put it back on, so you don't risk deforming the hole in the pulley/damper.

I wouldn't be afraid of doing the job, I would just play it safe by measuring and using some loctite to make sure you get it seated far enough and make sure it stays there.

I wouldn't use red loctite since that might take heat to remove it if something goes wrong with the install.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Harbor Freight sells a copper headed hammer that would come in handy for this job.

 

[Bbumbl40]

Rather than fighting with that only F, would you be intrested in a 2F that's in fairly good shape?

 

[primer7]

Yes

 

[primer7]

Changing the heater hoses, found this tucked up against the fire wall. I remember the old Prestone flush kits from when I was a kid.

 

[primer7]

Ok. So I got the pulley off...easy...timing gears look O.K. Gasket is as hard as a rock and the seal must have been leaking by the looks of things.

In the anal retentive category I was concerned about mixing up the cover screws as they are different lengths so I took one of the photos and well...

Anyone have any tricks to getting old gaskets off

 

[primer7]

Ordered new seals/gasket from CDan. Inside of cover is really clean.