Slight vib upon acceleration at 70mph.

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I had this on and off on my 2003 LX470. I have done: balance wheels, alignments, and tire pressure checks. So far, no vibrations.
 
I agree, its hard to pinpoint sometimes. Once you rule out the spinning masses, you then look to rubber or other vibration transmitters to diagnose your issue. The engine mounts on our rigs arent notorious for going out, but also not uncommon. Most who have replaced their motor mounts can't fully see the failure until they are removed. You also gotta look at the aging characteristics of rubber. Based off of external conditions and time, rubber hardens and cracks over the years. I replaced my transmission mount a while back and even though it appeared fine, there was an apparent difference in the pliability of the two rubber mounts.
After I pulled the rear shaft and determined its not that. Where would you look next? Replace transmission mount first, then move forward to motor, then to front diff?
 
After I pulled the rear shaft and determined its not that. Where would you look next? Replace transmission mount first, then move forward to motor, then to front diff?
I would do wheels/tires, then driveshafts, CVs are usually pretty noticeable, so then I'd move to motor/transmission mounts, then is check diff mounts.
 
Basics first....
Rotate tires and see if it changes, if it does balance tires/look for tire issue/seperation etc.
Don't over analize it without doing the basics first.
 
I have a hellacious whine at 55 and again at 70. I've Changed diff oils, all new U joints, serviced both front hubs, about to do a reboot. If that doesn't work I'm just gonna drive it till something explodes. I'm starting to think it's metal on metal somewhere, vibrating.
 
I would do wheels/tires, then driveshafts, CVs are usually pretty noticeable, so then I'd move to motor/transmission mounts, then is check diff mounts.
Im pulling rear shaft tomorrow after work. I guess i will rotate/ balance tires but i just dont see that being the prob. Motor/transmission mounts are high on my radar now. I will let yall know what ends up happening. The logical progression of wheels/tires, then DS's, then mounts and bushings is the way to go. Thanks.
 
So youre saying do

Spike, So what kind of life would a person expect to see out of the ujoints? 150k, 200k, 250k?? Its a hard one to answer I know. Thats why I figured what the hell I will just remove the shafts and check the joints. Have you ever removed your shafts, any tricks?, Long Cheater bar? I weigh 250 and put all my weight into it and they didnt move. Sprayed with lots a pb blaster and will try again.

U-joints will last as long as they last, depends on how often/well they are taken care of. That being said, u-joints are also cheap, so if you have any doubt replace them and then they'll be ruled out.
Myself, I run them until they're bad, easily 200k.
When they stop taking grease, start to squeak or vibrate then they need to be replaced.
When I do replace u-joints I always do all of them at the same time with the same brand, that way I know the quality and age of them and I figure one has gone bad the rest are sure to follow.
I never remove things I do not need to, why create extra work for myself? Why take a chance on messing up the space time continuum and destroying the universe because I thought I might have heard/felt something that no one else feels?
Coming from the Land Rover world there was always "boat fitters disease", you work on one thing and find two more things wrong that were perfectly fine until you started poking around where you didn't need to, now you've missed threes days of work and can't pay the mortgage because you spent it on Rover parts.

Let sleeping dogs lie.
 

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