since no one talked any sence into me at the sonic meet last night...

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JO MAOMA said:
just pulled the moon roof, that thing weighs a ton . therefore i'm revising my estimate...

...12.9 second quarter mile.
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If its the power tilt up style moonroof, I may be interested in those bits as well...
 
JO MAOMA said:
i'll trade you the sunroof for some future mechanical mentoring on this project... :wrench::banana::wrench:
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I'm sure that can be worked out, but you may not like my thoughts on the "race" aspect::hillbilly: The 80 is a pig and no matter what class it's in, it will be "racing" against better suited rigs, in other words it is uncompetitive. If I were doing it, my goal would be to finish the race in under the max alloted time, in other words, drive it like the pig that it is, finish the coarse and have a great time. Depending on the problems that others have may even get a respectable finishing position.

That said the 80 is a stout rig, given a few days a stock one should have little problem completing the coarse. Putting one on a diet and some well planed suspension upgrades should net a rig that will complete it in the allowed time.

The first thing that I would do, it may already be too late? Is get a temp tag and put a couple of hundred street/dirt road miles on it to uncover any issues.

Most of the stock systems are up to the task, even the air cleaner is probably good to go. My biggest problems with the 80 and high speed is the front suspension. The plan for a desert rig is as much travel as possible and keeping the rig as low as possible. Due to the tractor motor and straight axle there isn't much up travel available, what ~3.5" on a stocker before the axle hits the pan? So a lift is needed to get respectable travel, raising the CG.

The other issue is the radius arms, they are very restrictive to flex. This causes the body to follow the front axle, when one side hits holes/bumps at high speed the body is tossed side to side. Titting a big bump on the inside on a turn could easily launch it onto it's roof, slightly holding up progress.:hillbilly:

What class are you planning to run, do the rules allow replacement arms? The arms on mine make high speed running much more predictable/comfortable. If you have to run stock arms there are also some tricks that would help.
 
Tools R Us said:
The 80 is a pig and no matter what class it's in, it will be "racing" against better suited rigs, in other words it is uncompetitive. If I were doing it, my goal would be to finish the race in under the max alloted time, in other words, drive it like the pig that it is, finish the coarse and have a great time.
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that's the plan exactly! it's obviously a novelty run for an 80 in the
stock full class, the plan is to finish, not try to race $100k rigs. i ran
the 500 coarse three weeks ago in my trail rig full of gear and
averaged 26mph ( that would be 3 hours under the limit ) now i know
there is a huge difference between pre-running and the actual race i
just mention it to illustrate that the rig at least is capable of making
the time limit...

Tools R Us said:
Putting one on a diet and some well planed suspension upgrades should net a rig that will complete it in the allowed time.
Click to expand...

the diet is coming along well, about 400lbs so far. stock full rules say
no lighter than delivered so the plan is to try and remove enough
weight to make up for 90 feet of 2" dom going in. as far as suspension
as long as those lottery tickets i picked up come thru i'll be running
2.5" three tube bypass shocks on each wheel...

Tools R Us said:
My biggest problems with the 80 and high speed is the front suspension. The plan for a desert rig is as much travel as possible and keeping the rig as low as possible. Due to the tractor motor and straight axle there isn't much up travel available, what ~3.5" on a stocker before the axle hits the pan? So a lift is needed to get respectable travel, raising the CG.
Click to expand...

i'm with you here as well. i going to run a 33" tires (so the bump stops
can stay were they are) and a modest downey lift that will hopefully net
me 6"up travel 4"drop up front. also i'm trying to get as much weight off
the front as i can by removing the the ac system and relocating the
batteries to the back

Tools R Us said:
The other issue is the radius arms, they are very restrictive to flex. This causes the body to follow the front axle, when one side hits holes/bumps at high speed the body is tossed side to side. Titting a big bump on the inside on a turn could easily launch it onto it's roof, slightly holding up progress.

What class are you planning to run, do the rules allow replacement arms? The arms on mine make high speed running much more predictable/comfortable. If you have to run stock arms there are also some tricks that would help.
Click to expand...

i would really like to hear your thoughts on the radius arms, maybe at the
next meet i can pick your brain. i appreciate your input, thanks....
 
JO MAOMA said:
...
i'm with you here as well. i going to run a 33" tires (so the bump stops
can stay were they are) and a modest downey lift that will hopefully net
me 6"up travel 4"drop up front. ...
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May want to think about this a bit more? Normally I would agree with a slightly smaller tire for fast stuff, but this isn't a normal racer. In this case, by going with the 315's you gain some unsprung weight, but the rig already has a ton of it? The advantages are; the larger tire will drop into less holes and make bumps, steps less harsh. More sidewall will work as "rubber suspension" on a rig with less than ideal travel I would bet that the bigger tires would make for a faster, more comfortable rig. 315's are very close to clearing on a stocker, with some "sledge hammer to the fender wells" mods I bet they would clear.

Why downey springs? I have no experance with them on an 80, but have put some on runners and wasn't impressed? They were relativly short travel (iirc shorter free leingth than the stockers) and unseated easly, even with only slightly longer than stock shocks.

How do they determine "no lighter than delivered"?
 
285/75/16 is the size the Araco Dakar 80's ran and the same size tire Ivan Stewart ran on his 80 pre-runner so i was using that as my starting point. i got my 33" rubbing when i bottom out so i was a little hesitant to go much bigger, although like you say a little persuasion could probably make room.

i decided to try the downey springs after talking to a Allen Russell (who has run them on his pre-runner 80 for years) and John Ray (who built Ivan Stewarts pre-runner) i've got them in and i'm getting an 1.5" more drop than stock and about the same as on the OME heavies. most of the guys that i have talked to feel they're softer than the OMEs but the rig will hopefully weigh about 700 lbs less than my trail rig so i'm hoping they fit the bill.

as far as weight i think the only time you would only be put on a scale if you were protested, but i don't know for sure.

i took your advice and had my new Nitto's mounted up on my stock rims.
only seventy four pounds mounted, me likey...
 
the jenny craig racer...

320995573_zahnX-M.jpg
 
JO MAOMA said:
the jenny craig racer...

320995573_zahnX-M.jpg
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If you are going for broke...I would pull the rear doors apart and just attach the door skins to the body. You could use dzus fasteners so they could be removed for access to the cargo area. You might also consider cutting out the roof and replacing w/ a sheet of aluminum w/ x-braces in alum or even fabric (think Sunbrella canvas). The front inner fenders could also be replaced some strategically placed struts (like hanging fibergalss fenders)

Fun project!
 
got more bits pulled and listed in the classifieds (i'll deal on them
for local folks) cruise control acuator, and a abs unit....
 
ok weight loss program complete, total of 812lbs have
come out of the beast. biggest surprizes so far...

a single middle seat ways as much as both swaybars

pulling the ac, heaters and blowers netted 70lbs
 
ran new brake lines today eliminating the ABS and the LSPV
valve in back. I put a brake proportioning valve inline up front...

326225802_GMGBT-M.jpg


...i also installed a longer braided brake line in back but still
need to do the front lines.
 
hj60 said:
My AC is colder than my kitchen refrigerator now. Thanks again.
Now, didja happen to pull the factory radio antenna and CDL switch? :)
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man i'm glad that worked out. it's good to see this stuff going into
rigs rather than the dumpster.... :steer:


...factory radio antenna no worky, totally trashed. didn't think there was a
cdl switch on the '93 but if there is it's a keeper and one less thing to add.
 
JO MAOMA said:
ok lets see who needs...

power window controller
window acuators
all the glass, including the rear sliders
sun roof
rust free liftgate/hatch
flares (actually i have two sets, one white, one green)
bug deflector
seats -grey cloth
trailer hitch
stock wheels - 10 total
and the crown jewels, 4 brand new center caps

....13 second quarter mile here i come. :flipoff2:
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I could use a DS power window controller, if its the same as a '97.:grinpimp:
 
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