Siezed brake fittings

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Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Threads
229
Messages
794
Location
East York, Canada
I was going to replace the brake lines that go from the body to the axle housing but I couldn't get the fittings loose. I have tried soaking them in penetrating oil for a few days now and still they won't move. I've actually stipped one of them slightly so I didn't try any further.
What can I do to loosen those fittings?
 
Very cautious application of heat is a possibility. I have to do the same task next week and I am not looking forward to it. I suspect I will be bending up some new line.
 
Use brake cleaner to get the crap off the fittings, first, then use PB Blaster, Kroil, and careful heat. Get a good set of metric flare wrenches. Lowe's had a nice set for a good price... You got Lowe's up there??

And if you still can't get 'em off.... Sell me the truck :D:D:D ( if it's LHD) ...
 
You are talking about the rubber line? Be careful on the hard lines on each end or you might have to reflare the ends and get new nuts. Propane torch is your friend. :)
 
I'm presuming that it would be a good idea to flush the brake fluid after all is done since heating the brake fluid with a torch can't be good for the fluid. Correct....?
 
Not a bad idea to flush after heating but honestly if you boil the brake fluid your brass fittings are likely junk already anyway. If you don't boil the fluid there is no reason to change it. Brake fluid is built for heat cycles.
 
you can get new brake lines at A-zone...I also stripped mine but had no problems using the vise grips.
 
brake work

I just did this job on mine - bent up new lines and everything. The brake clean followed by lube mentioned earlier is good advice. I would recommend getting a really high quality 10mm Flare wrench, the better ones tend to flex open less under stress, which means less chance of rounding. I didn't believe that at first until i compared my old grey 10mm to my neighbour's shiny new snap-on. Bonus canuck points if you know grey tools...

Additionally, if you're replacing the lines, I would cut the line above the fitting before pulling the fitting off. I know mine were so rusted that they weren't spinning around the line - so I had to overcome the seized bolt AND try and turn/ bend the line. Cutting it removes that extra resistance. I'm not sure if thats really that big of a deal, but it seemed to help for me.

If you need to replace the fittings, there are 2 lengths; 0.7" + 0.91" [17.75mm , 23.15mm] ... from the sounds of it, right in the middle is the perfect length for replacements. The cheap ones you get from napa are too short and hex head jams up before the threads fully engage.

Their flare kit works really well, and theres tons of threads for good instruction on how to do it- my only thing to add to them is this: when you use a pipe cutting tool, it leaves a very tiny, very thin strip that weakens the final flare and doesnt let the mandrel sit flat. Drilling that out with a 3/16 bit - very gently, makes for a consistently good flare.

Good luck + happy bending...
 
just yanked engine and about to tackle all the other sh*t around that compartment including brake lines, what gives me more fits are the small junction blocks, particularly the ones just rear of the charcoal canister, anybody have good sources for those?...the double on top of the frame rail and the single on the side going down to the axle in particular
 
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