shortning DL, can anyone here do it?

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Joined
Aug 15, 2005
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5,126
Location
Lemoore, CA (south of Fresno) / Cortes Island, B.C
I was going to take my front drive line to McCalisters off on Ben Maddox to shortend my front driveline to work for my rear DL since I am SO and could use a bit more travel. Can anyone here do it with me? I figure some type of jig woud need to be made with a dial indicator, but other than that, it couldn't be too hard.

Would anyone be interested in building a jig with me for drivelines? We could use if for club memebers since it is 90 bucks to just shorten a DL. It would be a lot more to lenghten one.
 
I would build one out of square. That way you would not need to buy longer splines. You will need at least 12" of slip and that is not cheap. With square you can get as much as you want and it is cheap. You can also make them a pretty tight fit and they wont break.
 
I would build one out of square. That way you would not need to buy longer splines. You will need at least 12" of slip and that is not cheap. With square you can get as much as you want and it is cheap. You can also make them a pretty tight fit and they wont break.

He is talking about his rear driveline. I don't think he wants a square one for that.

If you rear driveline currently works, why change it. The rear is usually not a problem with a spring over since the differential primarily remains centered during articulation. I would run it until you suck a driveshaft, then you will know how much to lengthen it. Just my $.02.
 
I would build one out of square. That way you would not need to buy longer splines. You will need at least 12" of slip and that is not cheap. With square you can get as much as you want and it is cheap. You can also make them a pretty tight fit and they wont break.

It is for my rear driveline. You cannot have a square front driveline. I am shortening my front DL to work in my rear.
 
It is for my rear driveline. You cannot have a square front driveline. I am shortening my front DL to work in my rear.

I think that he misread your original post. He says in his posts after that he might have a rear driveshaft that will work for you.
 
I tried mounting my front DL and the front DL fully compressed will bolt up without any room to compress more, so I need it shortened 1.5"s. After many searches, it appears that a stock cruiser axle should have beween 1" and 1.75" of compressed length mounted at ride height. I have ran an RTI ramp until my rear tire is just off the ground and my stock DL has not popped out, but that is not a great test since only a little bit of the splines was stil in the shaft.

Anyone disagree with the amount of compression of a stock DL?

I would like to use a minitruck DL. I believe they have a longer compression shaft then the cruisers. Is 1.5" not enough or sounds good?

I wanted to go to the wrenching weekend this weekend an run the ramp, but Dusty (still needs to do the paperwork for the club) just got his bender and we were going to link his rear end and make my cage Saturday.
 
Your current driveshaft should be fine. If it hasn't sucked out yet, it is probably not going to unless you high center it on a rock. The best way to check if it is enough is to put it onto a lift.
 
got lift?
 
No, but there is an air jack at Dan's that can lift your back tires off of the ground. It should do the trick.
 
another option is to just cut the spare rear shaft to length and weld it myself, trying to true it as best as possible (maybe make some type of jig). Since I would flat tow the rig to the trails and disconnect the DL anyways, might jsut be able to use the cutone for the trail and origonal for the road.

but then again, pretty ghetto idea.

Damn, 80 bucks for the palce in Visalia and I need 40 feet of 1.75" X .120 hot roll for the cage. DId I mention the tube bender showed up yesterday?
 
I would like to use a minitruck DL. I believe they have a longer compression shaft then the cruisers. Is 1.5" not enough or sounds good?

I've got the leftover spline and slip from my mini front DL from when I made my square one. If you think it might be longer I could measure it and let you know.
 
another option is to just cut the spare rear shaft to length and weld it myself, trying to true it as best as possible (maybe make some type of jig). Since I would flat tow the rig to the trails and disconnect the DL anyways, might jsut be able to use the cutone for the trail and origonal for the road.

but then again, pretty ghetto idea.

Damn, 80 bucks for the palce in Visalia and I need 40 feet of 1.75" X .120 hot roll for the cage. DId I mention the tube bender showed up yesterday?

80 buck really isn't that bad. They did my rear driveline and it turned out well. No vibration whatsover. You can do it yourself, but balancing might be a problem.

Are you using HREW or DOM for your cage? Also, whay kind of bender? I have a Pro Tools and have been extremely happy with it.
 
using 1.75"X.120 HREW. Was going to go DOM, but most research says that unless I am racing, HREW should be more than strong enough for rockcrawling. DOn't kno what type of bender it is. I know it is hydro. Picked up 40' for under 90 bucks :).
 

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