Short and loose wheel lug bolts (bolts with an S)

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HZ Cruiser

HZ Cruiser

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Threads
29
Messages
235
Location
Coquitlam BC
While inspecting my brakes today I noticed something odd. :hhmm:

On each front wheel there is one wheel lug bolt that is significantly shorter than the others. There are also some that are loose!! I can turn them by hand with ease.

I havn't really taken a close look at the brakes myself since I bought the truck:doh:

I ended up tightening them up as best I could making sure that when I bolted the tire back on that they were not spinning. Should I replace all the wheel lug bolts.?
or
Just the short ones? or...??

Could I just use locktite on the loose ones?

The short ones concern me the most. There is only about 1/4-3/8 thread in the lug nut.

There are wheel spacers that were on the truck when I bought it. I tried to take them off to get a look behind them to see why the bolts were loose, but the wall of my socket was too thick. Is there a special tool for this.... or do I just happen to have a real thick socket set??

:bounce:For those of you who read about my death wobble issue, do you think this could be the culprit??:bounce:

What do you think guys!!

:cheers:
 
Sounds like someone has broken them and replaced them with an incorrect type.
The loose ones should be inspected closer to see if they are the proper type
Ive never broken one so I dont know what they look like.

I didnt know you had spacers but they can definately cause problems if they were not on when the alignment was done.
Unless you need them I would remove the spacers.
 
If you have spacers they are aluminum right? So the studs were spinning in the aluminum?? If so remove the spacers sooner than later. If the studs are loose that attach to the hub then remove the hub and replace the studs with new OEM studs. Aluminum flexs - thats why they have to be tightened on a regular basis.
 
HZ Cruiser said:
Thanks for your continous expertise Rosco :clap:

Is there an advantage of having wheel spacers? I have quite a bit of lift (5-6 inches- springs, body, tires)

Will I have more body roll without the spacers?
Click to expand...

IMO ,90% of owners put wheel spacers on for looks. They want the monster truck look.
Of course if your running really big tyres and go rock crawling/or hard core offroad every other weekend ,then there maybe there a case for them.

There will be some difference in handling if you remove them.
Good ones cost about $700-800 per 4

Im a little bit sceptical on any suspension or steering mods done in Japan. Im not saying they cant do a good job but Ive seen too many blue/pink/yellow anodised alloy shackle extensions and butchered SOA to trust their work.

I like a 2-3"lift and 33" tyres.It just works very well on a 7* or 60 series.
 
lshobie said:
If you have spacers they are aluminum right? So the studs were spinning in the aluminum?? If so remove the spacers sooner than later. If the studs are loose that attach to the hub then remove the hub and replace the studs with new OEM studs. Aluminum flexs - thats why they have to be tightened on a regular basis.
Click to expand...

Yes, in fact they are aluminum. and the studs are spinning in the aluminum. I will remove them as soon as I can.

Since the studs are spinning in the aluminum, can they be fixed/re-threaded?

I don't mean to put them back on my truck, but to sell them and have peace of mind that I'm not selling someone the same problem. I wouldn't want to do that.

Thanks For the advice Ishobie.
 
HZ Cruiser said:
Quote:
There will be some difference in handling if you remove them.
Good ones cost about $700-800 per 4


What kind of differences do you mean?
Click to expand...

Your changing to a narrower track ,so it may roll more and having the wheel closer to the spring may make the springs feel stiffer but probably minimal.
You havent mentioned the thickness of the spacer. If its only 30mm it will be almost unnoticeable
 
If they are spinning in the aluminum they are junk - they will get someone killed - or write off a good curiser. Toss them.

I use spacers so I can run my 36 inch tires, will also need to put some on the front to run the 100 series rims. I retorque mine often.

Not sure about the difference in quality from 800 dollar spacers to 400 dollar spacers - I'm pretty sure they all come from china - some just have different stamps on them.
 
lshobie said:
If they are spinning in the aluminum they are junk - they will get someone killed - or write off a good curiser. Toss them.

I use spacers so I can run my 36 inch tires, will also need to put some on the front to run the 100 series rims. I retorque mine often.

Not sure about the difference in quality from 800 dollar spacers to 400 dollar spacers - I'm pretty sure they all come from china - some just have different stamps on them.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of these ones. Supposed to be good if you have to have them and closer to $600 a set.
Some people say you can get good spacers that dont have to be retorqued:meh:
Snake Racing
 
Get yourself some helicoils and install them. Aluminum should have helicoils in them anyways. Try Lordco they can get them 12mm x 1.5 or 1.25 bring a stud in to make sure. :beer:
 
HZ:
Helicoils are a thread repair device. I'd suggest you try Google... They are Helical coils (thus the name) of a formed hardened steel that insert into the original hole that has been re-tapped with a special thread to accept the coil.

If the studs spin in the spacer, just what exactly is holding that stud when you go to torque your lug nuts back on? You are going to lose those wheels real quick if you drive it like that before repairing, I hope it isn't in traffic! :whoops: I can't emphasize it enough - repair them or get those things off of there before you move it - you are risking your cruiser, and the lives of all that are around you on the road!

If the spacers have yielded after they have been torqued, seated and checked once, the material they have been made of is too soft, and those spacers are junk and a liability. All aluminums are not the same, and they vary in mechanical properties from being butter, to being as strong as a good structural steel.

Hope that helps,

Jim
 
Jim_Hbar said:
HZ:

If the studs spin in the spacer, just what exactly is holding that stud when you go to torque your lug nuts back on? You are going to lose those wheels real quick if you drive it like that before repairing, I hope it isn't in traffic! :whoops: I can't emphasize it enough - repair them or get those things off of there before you move it - you are risking your cruiser, and the lives of all that are around you on the road!

Jim
Click to expand...

I'll be on it like flies on s#%@.

I think I'd rather just remove the spacers and put back the OEM studs. Is this a job for a proffesional or could a novice like me do it with proper instruction?

Do you know of any threads on this?

Or....maybe I'll just go with the helicoils for now??

I'd like to do whatever is easier, faster and cheaper. I don't have alot of time OR money to spend on this right now.
But....keeping my family safe is far more important than either.

Any suggestions??
 
Lose the spacers. Although they might be on there cause the backspacing on the rims from Japan were incorrect.

I think alot of JDMS come with some nasty wheel combos... you might want to get it checked out at a shop if you're unsure. Why risk it.
 
brownbear said:
Lose the spacers. Although they might be on there cause the backspacing on the rims from Japan were incorrect.

I think alot of JDMS come with some nasty wheel combos... you might want to get it checked out at a shop if you're unsure. Why risk it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brownbear, I'll get it checked out.
:cheers:
HZ....
 
Good choice to loose the wheel spacers. Aluminum is awful to put a stud in Heli-coils or CAT staked inserts are the ONLY why to go. Heli-coils are used in the areospace industry for a reason. Roll Royce uses them alot in there O2 modules which are aluminum and work great. :beer:
 
Over tightening a possble cause

One problem I have heard is that upon installation of wheel spacers they are over torqued (so they don't come loose). Over tightening wheel spacers risks pulling the studs through or loosening the stud in the aluminum, which might be the reason for your loose studs

Wheel spacer manufactures (e.g. Spidertrax ) recommends a wheel torque 80 ft/lbs, with red locktite, which is less than the 100 ft/lbs Toyota recommends for its OEM steel wheel studs ( for a 74 ). High probability your problem is due incorrect installation of the spacers.
 
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