Shop/ Mechanic recomendations

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Threads
37
Messages
532
Location
Raleigh, NC
I cannot believe I am asking this, but can anyone recommend a shop or a mechanic that's fair and honest? I have been dealing with an electrical gremlin since August. Started occurring in late August, but did not rear its ugly head until this past Sunday. It blows me away it did not reappear during LR. To me it seems like the battery needs to be replaced (though I have never had a battery go out like this before), but the experts on MUD believe its a bad ground or fusible link. I have checked every ground I can find and from what I can tell the fusible links are good. Though the ground on the back of the engine is a PITA to check and from what I can tell its on there good. Today, the LX shut off there times on Capital Blvd on my way into work (during idle) and with no electricity I could not put hazards on, scary s__t trying to dodge cars on Capital during rush hour. Now I know what frogger feels like.

I am still leaning towards pulling the alternator this weekend, but naturally its going to be a monsoon out there, so I will get to look forward to doing this while lying in several inches of water. FML!!! So I am debating taking this to someone just to get it fixed. Naturally, this has been an insanely busy week here at work and I have had to stay at the office until 6-7 pm each night. Not leaving me really any time to dig into this further. Guess its a case of Murphy's Law and Murphy really has my ass right now.

If you feel like reading:

Calling all electrical gurus


Thanks everyone!!
 
Darin is down in Fayetteville. That's the only one I'm aware of.
 
Thanks, I am aware of Darin, but I need to get this fixed right away and there is no way I can get this thing down to Fayetteville.
 
Something like that has to be a fusible link. They some time burn inside and the onsulation still good
 
First off, hats off to all superstar admins. I decided because its dry that I was going to go fix this SOB in the company parking lot, while my admin essentially is doing my job all morning. Guess its a good think I keep tools in the back. I will be honest I don't know how to test a fusible link. In the past I had one go out in my Hilux, but it was an inline fusible link and back then I just tested the conductivity. So again I pulled every single fuse and tested the conductivity which all were good. I then for some strange reason decided to remove the battery, clean the terminals (though they looked completely fine), and removed every ground I could find to clean it off. Once I put everything back, the power was back and walla she fired right up. Volts on the battery are 12.4 when its not running and 14.8 when its running. So at this point I think I can get it home to look at it further. The issue was it would cut off at idle (sometimes) and this issue just stared two days ago. Original issue only occurred two times back in August and it never cut off completely, just the dash lights lit up and then cut off for a brief moment.

Other than testing the conductivity how would I know if the fusible link is bad? Sorry for the stupid question. Thankfully, I just have not had many electrical issues in the past on any of my rigs. Mechanical issues are much easier for me to fix.
 
I would test the fusible link with a multimeter, measuring resistance.

In my experience they're either good or bad, not intermittent, but that's only on older rigs.

If you look at the fusible link, is the conductor exposed or is the insulation melty/burned?
 
I would test the fusible link with a multimeter, measuring resistance.

In my experience they're either good or bad, not intermittent, but that's only on older rigs.

If you look at the fusible link, is the conductor exposed or is the insulation melty/burned?

Not at all, everything looks brand new with the exception of a light coating of Uwharrie dust. Resistance huh? I will need to you tube that. Lost the instructions to my multimeter a long time ago. I am such a noob when it comes to electrical issues, other than stereo and amp installations. I am curious to see how the drive home will be. I will certainly be taking back roads and not Capital. But as of right now she is idling perfectly. Keep my fingers crossed.
 
James .... just for kicks. At idle sitting in the driveway spend about 2 minutes wiggling the ignition key in every possible way but focusing on tiny shakes and movements. Not all, but a lot of what you describe sounds like a dead spot in the switch.
 
James - I feel the same way - - Electrical is like voodoo and carbs to me - - I need to learn more about it in general and specifically with my vehicles and home.
 
James .... just for kicks. At idle sitting in the driveway spend about 2 minutes wiggling the ignition key in every possible way but focusing on tiny shakes and movements. Not all, but a lot of what you describe sounds like a dead spot in the switch.

Sounds good, I will try that this evening and will report back. Thanks!
 
Sounds good, I will try that this evening and will report back. Thanks!

A long shot. With the failure rate you describe being so low the chance of finding a dead spot are small, but at least this test requires no disassembly.
 
I agree with the link thing here. But also something easy is just to pull all the grounds one at a time and clean them well. Make sure they are metal to metal and no paint between. My 62 just was doing something like this and it was a wire by the alternator. It would keep running but electrical would shut down. No lights and he likes.
 
Back
Top Bottom