Shackle reversal on hzj75

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Joined
Jul 24, 2013
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Hi all new to the forum I'm part way through doing a spring over on my hzj75. Im thinking of doing a shackle reversal but I'm 50/50 at the moment whether to do it or not :bang: it will see alot of highway use to and from tracks. I know it has been covered ALOT but I want to hear from those who have actually done it and whether they like it or not and why. My main worry is brake dive is it really that bad? Thanks for replys in advance.
 
Run spring over & shackle reversal on my 2 70s

Brake diving depends on your springs. Soft springs and the front end does dive abit under braking but I wouldn't consider this a concern , on mine anyway . Most 70s over here are lifted 2-4 inches ,spring under. Those springs being lifted are generally more stiffer and therefore eliminate most if not all of any diving under braking. Atleast this was the case with my 70 when it was spring under and lifted with stiff as springs. So when I went spring over with softer/flatter springs and my front end dived abit under braking upon its first drives I thought I'd stuffed something up . Its fine over time and might seem like alot at first because your use to the stiffness of your spring under springs.

Ultimately its upto you , I went S/R for 2 main reasons , better approach angle and I think shackles at front look ugly as ugly gets
 
Thanks NZcruisers That's the same reason I'm looking into a shackle reversal the approach angle (I've got extended shackles) and like you said they do look ugly. I have read the flatter the springs with a shackle reversal the less brake dive you get I would be using my stock almost flat springs. I don't here of any hilux drivers complaining about brake dive. How much longer did your front shaft need to be?
 
Stock springs are ideal for SO set ups. Lifted springs could give too high a ride height , SO with factory springs is high enough as it is

I can't remember the measurements of my front D/S , having moved all the mounts round etc its likely to be different to yours anyway
But be sure to allow for the driveshaft to run extended during 'normal' vehicle sitting because under compression the axle will move rearward. If you didn't allow for this and ran a driveshaft without any extension on compression of the springs the axle would move about an inch or 2 rearward ( spring etc dependant) and the driveshaft not being able to compress would send all that force rearwards into your front transfercase output flange which wouldn't be ideal

I just made my own front driveshaft seeing as I don't plan on doing any high speed offroading but if you are doing high RPM stuff it might pay to get one made. Balancing and all that mumbo
But if you do make your own , simply measure the distance between front output flange and front diff flange and make driveshaft with allowance for 50mm compression or whatever you feel is right for your Cruiser. Good luck and don't forget to post pics
 
I do plan on putting pics up. Did u have any problems with the pitman arm/ steering box making contact with the springs under flex? It just looks like it will be close sorry for all the questions.
 
Yup Pitman arm is fairly close to springs under flex , I assume you've got yourself a flat pitman arm? If you haven't already , you definately need to get yourself one otherwise running S/R with factory piutman arm , is bound to lock up your steering when flexing
Helps to use a tallish/deepish spring mount on the front to avoid this , or compensate with bump stops on drivers side so it doesn't allow the spring to invert enough to lock up steering ( not ideal in tricky situations)
If your still having issues then coils might be worthwhile to look at oneday , they do take abit to set up properly though.

All good about the questions , its what this forum is all about
 
Looks like I will be looking for a flat pitman arm or a 79 series front end for its coil setup haha thanks for the info NZcruisers.
 
I'm just getting my head around the drive shaft issue do you think its possible that my drive shaft could be to long and like you said smash the transfer on compression but on flex not be long enough and fall out could there be that much slip? Or am I just over thinking things?
 
If your front shaft just bolts in , but if you can only just fit it in with S/R your asking for trouble . You should have to extend it out abit to bolt it in , this isn't that great for the splines because the extended splines now take more load on them vs the stock position but this is simply a con of S/R but imo not a big issue.

You've got to aim to have it set up so 'normal' position is halfway along the spline travel so it has half the spline travel to compress and the other half to extend , which should be enough with Cruiser shafts.
But if there isn't enough travel on your splines to allow for compressed/extended movement, you'll have to look for another driveshaft from some other vehicle that has longer spline travel and fabricate it into your front shaft . Seen some rediculous length of spline travel on some 4WD's over here , you don't really need that much unless your running some extreme shackles/long leafs

Post pics and let us know how ya get on
 
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