Serpentine belt swap - how far are you all going? (1 Viewer)

[LINUS]

Title says it all - truck is a ‘12 w 80K - 5.7/3UR

changing belt on age, and tensioner b/c it just seems smart - just noticed the extra idler pulley on DS - anybody refreshing that too?

Tensioner was $80, belt shy $90 - just saw idle pulley, no clue $$ (dealer parts)

What parts are you all swapping?

 

[bigredmachine]

personally i would do just the belt. the only time that i ever changed the tensioner or idlers was when the pulleys started to make noise or they were rusty and crusty and i couldnt wire wheel them clean, they dont really go bad all that often

 

[1911garand]

YMMV - If the pulley bearings are quiet and tight - good to go. If the tensioner moves easy and doesn't have in/out slop - good to go.

However, if your rig has 200K+ - YES, replace away.

I replaced my 5.7 belt at 103K - no issues with bearings / tensioner found.

Good luck!

 

[LINUS]

I’m just 80K - but it’s 12yo belt / everything is 80K/12yo - so I’m thinking the full bearings (tensioner & pulley) belt all real stealer parts.

Also betting coolant & t-stat are OE, so they both go.

Anything else I should look save spark plugs?

—— I’m trying to make the serpentine setup / coolant / plugs GTG for ~5yrs save a part failure down the line.

For my Tundra it’s age, not miles where things will fail.

I just need to keep up underhood rubber as I do short trips like 1st owner - critical hose in coolant system while drained & fresh red/pink goes in?

Heater core valve a issue before ~ 150K?




I know the 1FZ, but the 3UR/5.7 is a new animal for me.

 

[1911garand]

PVC valve for sure. My was plugged at 103K. Cheap and easy to replace.

Clean T-body as well.

Carry a spare ignition coil.

Not much else on the 5.7 it is much more boring than the 1FZ!

 

[LINUS]

PVC valve for sure. My was plugged at 103K. Cheap and easy to replace.

Clean T-body as well.

Carry a spare ignition coil.

Not much else on the 5.7 it is much more boring than the 1FZ!

Generic PCV or did you pony up for the real deal from dealership?



I’m calculated my total mileage annually & 40K more to the 120K range when the maintenance schedule has the tensioner & idler pulley & it’s easily 4 yrs away, so just ordered all 3 parts / do it all now - if the parts coming off are still good, oh well.

Not even worth keeping the old parts beyond ~6mo so I know all the new parts are flawless/bed in right.

120K is forever away on all new parts - like 2036. I don’t mind if the old ones coming off this weekend are like.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

@LINUS the real deal from the dealership is like $9. Just be super careful installing it. My first one snapped off at the threads without any real effort once it bottomed out. It was an easy extraction with a large flat bladed screw driver but still. Time and money.

 

[LINUS]

@LINUS the real deal from the dealership is like $9. Just be super careful installing it. My first one snapped off at the threads without any real effort…..

Ha, wish it was $9.

I had them reversed- $83.80 for belt, $96.71 for tensioner, $113.13 for idler pulley.

According to receipt, all 3 were about 75% real price vs the “list” price.

List was roughly $360 , ballpark.
With tax, I was just over $300.

There was no $9 anything……..maybe the coffee for those in customer lounge


But I asked & hourly shop rate is $180, so there’s that too - might be higher/lower than your local dealer.



There’s 2 good vids on YT for the work, so straightforward IMO.

The key seemed to be to preload that tensioner w/ Allen wrench to hold compressed, belt is massaged into place after that.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

@LINUS I was referring to the pcv valve.

 

[LINUS]

Sounds like I’ll drop a few extree on the PCV valve - mine is old & a cheap part like that is a no-brainer next I hit the parts counter.

I’ll get a non-dealer shop to do coolant & t-stat done, but still do Carfax stamp/reports - sucks to buy that stamp or report, but IMO smart $$ long-term if I have ever to sell.

 

[LINUS]

I H8 when people don’t follow up on things, so I did the :

Serpentine belt
Tensioner
Idler pulley

All had 81K / was ~12yr old.



The motor starts/idles far more quiet & runs down the road smoother like it was a new rig off the lot.

Doing all 3 parts is amazing how it was so smooth at idle & to ~3K RPM.

Plus, all are new/ esp the 12YO rubber serpentine.

Even at dealer prices, the result is worth it if you have older rigs - even w/ lower miles.

That’s just my opinion.

 

[DIRTBIKEUSA]

Change belt every 40-50k
Changer Tensioner, Idler, fan bearing bracket every 100k

 

[LINUS]

Change belt every 40-50k
Changer Tensioner, Idler, fan bearing bracket every 100k

Mine was a bit off as I have 81K on a 2012.

I did all 3 & the idler bearings were OK, but it did spin longer than a new one by a good amount, the tensioner was slightly better - but swapping all 3 @ 81K/12YO - starts and idles quiet as new, as it mostly should.

Really, doing all 3 on a 5.7 / 3UR is doing it right since it’s going to be 2026 before I hit 100K & as often as truck use is towing the boat, last I need is a failure in the serpentine belt dept while dragging the boat.

Now with all 3 done, I’m good for a long time there.




Fresh coolant & a new t-stat are next.
IDK miles, again doing mine on age & as much city/short trips as mine thermal cycles.

 

[1911garand]

Generic PCV or did you pony up for the real deal from dealership?



I’m calculated my total mileage annually & 40K more to the 120K range when the maintenance schedule has the tensioner & idler pulley & it’s easily 4 yrs away, so just ordered all 3 parts / do it all now - if the parts coming off are still good, oh well.

Not even worth keeping the old parts beyond ~6mo so I know all the new parts are flawless/bed in right.

120K is forever away on all new parts - like 2036. I don’t mind if the old ones coming off this weekend are like.

I just used a known brand from Rockauto, it was like $5. No issues with installation, hit YouTube for a how-to.

 

[LINUS]

I just used a known brand from Rockauto, it was like $5. No issues with installation, hit YouTube for a how-to.

Will check - thanks for reminding me!

Since it’s really just a check valve, a pair of good gloves & lacquer thinner/acetone has always revived mine on the 80, but you’re right - that lil’ SOB if clogged can cause havoc.