Scratch built trailer - frame material size??? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Threads
4
Messages
19
Location
Windsor, California

Hello,

I’m wondering if there is a rule of thumb or chart to help determine the size of material to use for trailer frames. I know the proper way to determine this is through engineering calculations based on the build design, but I doubt most shade-tree builders have this ability.

I need to construct a very stout flat bed trailer to haul a 1,000-gallon water tank. The bed needs to be 54” wide and 12’ long. I’m planning for a 5’ tongue length. In addition to the 500# tank, and 8,000# of water, I’ll have another 500# or so of pump, hose, and equipment. A 2,000# trailer would bring the total weight to 11,000#.

I’m planning to use tandem 6K drop axles with brakes on each axle, but may upgrade to 7K axles. Based on looking at various factory built trailers, I think the minimum frame material would be C6-10.5 (basically 6x2x0.25 channel iron weighing 10.5#/ft). I’m thinking I should use 6x2x0.25 tubing weighing 12.2#/ft. I don’t want to excessively overbuild because it will increase the overall weight, but I don’t want to underbuild for obvious reasons.

Anyone know of a chart or rule of thumb, or anyone have input?

Thanks,
Curtis
 
Tubing is much stronger than angle, however, your design (chassis) will play a large part in how strong your overall design is. I know there are good plans for sale for trailers, maybe check into one that fits your bill.

Just my.02

Drew
 
Good point Drew.

I've looked for plans, but have not found a flat bed as small as I want designed for so much weight. As the rear overhang or hitch to axle lengths grow frame material size logically increase. I've looked at some 7x12 12,000# dump bed trailers that used the C6x10.5, but a dump is such a different design (one frame that tilts resting on another that is the real frame).

Thanks,
Curtis
 
Just a quick run-through on weight of a box frame and axles comes in about 1200 lbs. Most class 4 trailers are rated at 10,000 and they often use 6 inch channel. Bumping up to a class 5 12,000, I would use the 6 inch box. 12 ft sides, 5 crossmembers and on the tongue extended from the front hanger up to the hitch probably around 8 ft on each side. I pull a 16 class 4 with a bulldozer that weighs 6500. It's made with 6 inch channel and over time it is showing the stress.
 
Curtis-

I think you are on the right track, FWIW, www.abctrailerparts.com will make you a custom axle in any load rating and any width for much less than anyone else in the country that I have found. I had a custom built 3500# axle made up for about 150 bucks!

That may free you up to use the material you want and build it the way you desire, I would get on a lot and check out the specs of what the major manufacturers are using, then with those materials in mind, draw up what you need in a trailer and start triangulating everything ;)

Keep us posted.

Rezarf <><
 
Thanks guys!

Thanks for all the advise guys!

I've checked with www.abctrailerparts.com, and the shipping was not good to California - www.etrailerpart.com appears to be a better choice when I look at shipping.

One question - why, and I know it is common, should I run my tongue all the way back to the spring hangers? I just cannot see the advantage of that design over just bending (cut & weld) the frame rails to become the tongue? FYI, the trailer will already be narrow so I don't think I'll have jackknife problems. Also, due to the narrowness, I'm trying to keep the center of gravity low using drop axles - I'm thinking that tongue rails below the frame will make the tongue very low for my truck hitch, and maybe cause clearance problems.

Thanks again!
Curtis
 
Curtis-

Simply put triangles equal strength.

When you let the drawbars go all the way back to the spring hangers you get a very solid chassis, where the tortional loads are now distributed directly in the sides of the trailers frame and directly over the axle. It is just a simple way to make a BIG triangle.

You could be fine with a cut and bend, I would just gusset it where you cut it.

Drew
 
Thanks again Drew! after reading your reply and thinking about it, I understand. I knew there had to be an advantage because I had seen it on many HD trailers.

Cheers,
Curtis
 

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