Nice patch panel. There is a certain artistry to making panels with compound curves. Looks great
Build Salted Pork fj55 family wagon build
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
- Start date
-
- Tags
- fj55 fj55 iron pig
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Nice patch panel. There is a certain artistry to making panels with compound curves. Looks great
Oh come on! Make history!!!
- Thread starter
- #403
Maybe being an art teacher helps! thanks! I am hoping the passenger side goes as well.
- Thread starter
- #404
hahaha Rachael is already off the island in New Bern staying with her parents. I would be ok with making history but the island doctor says otherwise....
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Threads
- 79
- Messages
- 3,574
Find a 40, 55, or 60 series front disc axle. 60 series will be more readily available than 40 series.
Grab the “outers” and graft them into your existing axle. Since you're in there, replace the bearings, pads, etc.
Do not bother with “bolt-on kits” that still use the factory drum brake knuckles, steering arms and wheel hubs.
Way more experienced people than me have deemed them "not worth the money".
Example: Georg at Valley Hybrids once said, "We’ve seen multiple failures and refuse to install these."
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Threads
- 79
- Messages
- 3,574
I have a Millermatic 35 from the early 80s that is still going. Nearly all of the parts to rebuild them are still available, and there are occasionally FB marketplace finds to be had.
Let me know if 451 Coronado Beige works for you. I could never get a definitive answer, so I just did a custom color match.
- Thread starter
- #408
Yep kinda what I decided that I should do it with toyota parts. I had talked to Kurt or sombody at cruiserteq a while back about what parts I would need. I Was going to start looking for a 60 series axle. but thats a future project because I have no qualms with my drums right now. just a leaky cylender on the passenger side. but then I realized I have a wheel cylinder that I might be able to use. I also have rebuild kits too from cruiseroutfitters that I forgot I had. so Might use that. or I might just buy new wheel cylenders. Just need to fix it untill I have enough money saved up to pretty much rebuild the front axle with brakes.
- Thread starter
- #409
I will, I am curious too. Its really weird to me that the land cruiser community does not have a solid answer on this because I have asked and looked too. I guess its a more rare color? I have seen others though. Reminds me of Hot chocolate or chocolate milk in color.
- Thread starter
- #410
I think thats what I am going to do to find a 220 v welder. I should get my new millermatic 142 on wednesday I am pretty excited for it!
Except Gail C is the best Doc ever, and could do it blind folded. But, she understands the "what if's" on the island, and like most things, better to err on the side of caution.
Congratulations to you guys
When I first got my Pig, in 1986, brake cylinder rebuild kits were cheap and easy to find at Napa. So I rebuilt everything and had great brakes. Had them balanced and tuned and could lock up 33s whenever I wanted. Made an impressive sound and worked better than a horn. I saw no need for disc brakes.
IIRC, the 55 rear wheel slave cylinders are slightly larger bore than the 40s, and rear shoes are slightly larger than 40s. Different part numbers. Double check me on that.
Get the special spoon brake adjusting tool from SOR, it really does work better than anything else. Put anti-seize on the threads of the adjusters and where the adjuster sits in the cylinder. Probably replace the brake hoses too.
- Thread starter
- #413
ALready ahead of you on the brake spoon adjuster. I bought one from cityracer a couple of years ago. and good tips on the rear shoes. and I am big on antiseize.
alright I will try and rebuild the cylinders I think that will be the most economical for sure.
I actually have some actual cylinders laying around too from my fj40 too but I think that those wont work being the fj40 was a 64. The cylenders were almost new but I changed them out anyway.
- Thread starter
- #414
Some updates. I asked the question about the fj55 rear window and how to get it to go up faster and I started to mess with it yesterday for a hot minute after work. And all of a sudden I got my key to roll it down (albeit slightly finicky) for the first time since I have owned the fj55. Thats a huge plus. I think there must be some bad contacts in there or somthing that needs cleaning because I can hear a solinoid or contacts or somthing clicking in there. some times it works sometimes it does not. either way I actually can see some hope with the rear window at least.
Got my hobart inventer series helmet yesterday and holy crap its so much better in terms of seeing than the eastwood helmet I had before. Probably because the lens is clean haha.
Got my hobart inventer series helmet yesterday and holy crap its so much better in terms of seeing than the eastwood helmet I had before. Probably because the lens is clean haha.
Yea, there are a few areas where the wiring can go 'bad' on the rear window.
-The connection strip in the back door
-the safety switch
-key contact
-the fuse breaker (auto reset) that will kick in if the motor binds
-the dash switch contact
did anyone say barn doors?!
-The connection strip in the back door
-the safety switch
-key contact
-the fuse breaker (auto reset) that will kick in if the motor binds
-the dash switch contact
did anyone say barn doors?!
- Thread starter
- #416
Barn doors would be pretty cool. I am a big fan of the tailgate though. Just the ability to sit on the tailgate is nice. @Shyrock s new fj55 has barn doors and its super cool. I would love that. Also I have read that Australia got a tailgate version with a hand crank rear window Kinda like I have seen on old wagoneers or k5 blazers This would have been ideal for sure.
Going to go down the list of things I have checked from your list -
Connection strip - I have cleaned but I will say my fuse panel in the engine bay had a brake in it causing the headlights not to work. I found that the terminal for the headlight fuse did not have continuity. I could not see the brake. all worked after I replaced it. So I might buy a connection strip. I think they are the same part found in the fj40s. Looks the same.
the safety switch - I believe somebody already bypassed the safety switch. I will double check that.
Key contact - I for sure think this could use cleaning. I have never had it work till yesterday.
The fuse breaker - this does work. because it for will slow down going up enough for it just to stop.
the dash switch contact - dash switch works perfectly but I am always down to clean contacts.
When you’re ready to go disc front brakes or want to start collecting parts, we’ve laid out all the needs here on Mud:
Skip anything that has you reusing course spline birfield outer axle and uses adapters to fit GM calipers and rotors. Like hard pass skip. These require you to re-use your course spline (low strength) outer birf joint and free-wheel hubs, both of which have no options for upgrades. If you have a 1958-10/67 4x axle, you'll also want to upgraded your entire front axle assembly not just the knuckles/brakes. The 1958-10/67 axles don't feature an inner axle seal (can be overcome with a conversion seal) but also have smaller diff studs, course spline inner axle shafts, etc. You...
Here's the connection strip part number:
- Thread starter
- #419
Hell Yeah! thanks Kurt! Eventually I will go in this direction. Kinda hoping I will get to it this summer. I am going to keep this in my back pocket. Going to order some transfer case parts from you at some point soon too. The tcase is next on the list before discs. Pretty sure I am just going to buy one of your rebuild Kits.When you’re ready to go disc front brakes or want to start collecting parts, we’ve laid out all the needs here on Mud:
Skip anything that has you reusing course spline birfield outer axle and uses adapters to fit GM calipers and rotors. Like hard pass skip. These require you to re-use your course spline (low strength) outer birf joint and free-wheel hubs, both of which have no options for upgrades. If you have a 1958-10/67 4x axle, you'll also want to upgraded your entire front axle assembly not just the knuckles/brakes. The 1958-10/67 axles don't feature an inner axle seal (can be overcome with a conversion seal) but also have smaller diff studs, course spline inner axle shafts, etc. You...
- Thread starter
- #420
yeah its the same part number I had written down for the junctions for on the inner finders for my fj40 project. Thanks!