Rust preventative on NE coast

[ColoradoLC]

This will be my first winter on the NE coast. The previous 19 years for my FJ60 have been a garage in Colorado. CO uses Mag chloride, which will rust pretty good, but so far my FJ is mostly rust free. I have a couple small areas near the rear snake blinders that need addressing, but other than that, the frame is light on rust.

In the front, I have the usual grease and grime protective coating, which I plan on leaving.

In the rear and on the small rust areas, I want to coat them with POR-15 to get ready for the winter here. I have read all of the reviews on the products and it would seem to be evenly matched for recommendations, but I have a couple close friends that recommend POR-15 very highly, so I am going that route.

So that leaves me with three questions:

1. Here in the NE do FJ60 owners find specific trouble spots underneath that I should pay special attention to?

2. Specific to POR-15, should I get the Metal Ready for my small rust spots?

3. Should I use the black coat for the frame and the clear coat for my outside bubbly rust near the snake blinders?

I plan to do a little touch up painting with my HVLP gun as well, so I don't mind painting over it.

 

[ColoradoLC]

Anyone?

 

[cahilc]

IMNSHO ...

The most critical spot on a Toyota's frame is the forward hanger mount (spring pin mount not the shackle mount) for the *rear* leaf spring. Inside and out. The inner vertical metal is not as critical as the other "C" or "U" shaped main frame segement (view the frame as a cross section).

The rest of the frame especially the rear may rust a bunch but it is cosmetic compared to the above mentioned spring hanger mount.

The other obvious rusty areas are the rear fender lips which is from a bad design because they trap mositure & dirt inside and out. Also, rocker panels where they drain on the inner lower pinch weld.

Whatever you do for rust prevention, please be sure you don't make it worse by trapping moisture & dirty under whatever coating you are applying.

I evaluated one of my trucks and took it to my mechanic to have the frame sand blasted and painted. Didn't happen. Comment came back was that if my frame was sandblasted I'd have holes blown through the metal from the sandlasting process. Ouch !



My sheet metal is still in good shape (good enough) so I'm in the process of re-framing "Clyde".

Cheers,
Cahil

 

[zebrabeefj40]

What I have seen happen on most FJ60's in that part of the world is the bottom inch of the frame rots from the inside out and the rear crossmembers and diagonals rust badly. I would drill a couple holes on the outside of the frame in front of the rear spring hanger and half way between the front and rear hangers. Then flush the inside of the frame with clean water (there is a rectangular hole further forward that lets stuff in that you can run the water in through). The crap gets in but can't get out...

Then use the POR-15 Metal Ready, POR-15 and the Chassis Coat on the frame as directed.

Some folks in that region swear by at home oil coating the frame and inner bottom areas of the body. They heat a mixture of gear oil and parafin then spray it into the areas with a rustproofing wand or similar. Then head for the nearest dirt road and drive that a few times to get a good coating of dust on/in the oil to help it stick. Park over cardboard to catch the drips for the next week or so to keep the oil out of the environment as much as possible.

Get in touch with the local Cruiser club, Yankee Toys also. There are several members who have done well at keeping their Toyota's looking like new for 200K miles without parking in the garage for the winter.

HTH,
Nick

 

[fogblanket]

not sure how attached you are to your snake blinders but they tend to be salt which = rust magnets. make sure your mud flaps are large enought for your tire size (unspecified what you are running for tires/lift) the areas that i do constant battle with are the bottoms of the rear quarter panels, my rockers have been replaced by 2x4 tubing so I don't worry about those anymore. and th rear half of the frame, my various coatings seem to where off faster than the front half of the frame. the front half gets protection from the old oil stuff (which is smart not to remove)
i am right on the coast and have not had much luck with POR-15 sticking. to each his own I have followed the directions to the letter and it stil flakes off in sheets. that said if you have a garage and can control the humidity and salt air during its complete curing time, about a week, that would help.

I use a home brewed concoctionn 3-4 times a year that consists of parifin wax ground up and let sit in a gallon of mieneral spirts for a week or so and then add a gallon of mineral oil all into a garden sprayer thing.the wax holds the oil onto the metal once the spirits evaporate.
if you do get rust spots that you want to convert go to a marine paint store and look for Ospho
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ing,Paint.Prep.Cleaners,Ospho.Metal.Treatment
its what the commerical fishermen use on there steel fishing boats, and those guys are runnig there steel fishing boats throught salt water 24x7 so they have to know something.
HTH Jason