Rust pits....

[chicago]

What to do about pitting rust spots?
grind/ clean the piss out of it and fill it?
Weld it in?
Any recommendations on this?
I saw some filler that contains aluminum in the Summit catalog...anyone know anything about this?
Is bondo a good choice?

In general, most of the floor pan is decent, but there are (as mentioned) some pitting spots. Dont particularly want to cut and patch stuff if I dont have to. This is a wheeler, not a show rig. It will get a rattle can paint job in the end, and possibly a bed lined interior where this issue is at.

 

[GDA62/100]

About 15 years ago the guy that repaired my door did a grind/sand/pick it out with a dental tool and touch up on a spot and it stopped the rust to this day. Of course, not long after that I had moved out of rust country to the west coast.
I'm doing a total repaint at this time, so I checked that spot.
I prefer to weld and grind flat. It's best to have access to behind the panel to recoat the back side as the heat burns off any rust protective coating there. It better work as I've done it in several spots.
Stay away from the standard pink Bondo.
Try Rage Extreme or something like that.
I'm not sure how a rust converter (usually a phosphoric acid product) affects the adhesion of a body filler. I'm going to try it in a spot or two as well, but I won't know how that holds up for a few years.
I've seen all kinds of Bondo and fiberglass repairs over rust that look good for a season then fall apart shortly thereafter, not to mention all the once nice looking classic car paint jobs at car shows with paint blisters over growing rust spots originating from pitting--even in sunny, dry northern CA.
IH8RUST (grew up in MN)

 

[Texx]

If it's pitted, think of the thickness of the metal where the pit is. Not mucho. You can fill it, or bedline it, for a temp fix. If you're in rust country, you'll have holes with filler in em. Best to cut out and weld in, but if you're wheelin....

 

[chicago]

If it's pitted, think of the thickness of the metal where the pit is. Not mucho. You can fill it, or bedline it, for a temp fix. If you're in rust country, you'll have holes with filler in em. Best to cut out and weld in, but if you're wheelin....

Got bored with the fender well re build yesterday, so I opted to weld the holes in. The side in question is the PS floor pan right OVER the body mount. I burned through, chased the hole around a bit, but got em welded in in the end.

In in NV, so not too much in the way of rust. Not to say that it doesnt happen, but less likely than say...Chicago.

I FAWKING HATE BODY WORK!!

However, It seems that is all I do now a days, if not for me then others.

Thanks!

Do you like bedliner in the cab? I was thinking about this, but was not sure if it was a really good idea or not.

 

[Texx]

people looking to buy restored trucks hate bedliner, because they're afraid of what it's covering up. From a practical aspect, it's great. Quiets down the interior considerably. Wash it out..yadda yadda. No downside for me, I've done it to every truck I've built in thelast few years.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

For a wheeler, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe some converter in a spray can, followed by a rattle can paint job. Look at Rusty_TLC. His body has more rust than metal and it works just fine as a wheeling truck.

I think bedliner is a supercool and practical way to line the tub. If you are doing that anyway, I wouldn't sweat the pitting very much as it will be well covered.

 

[chicago]

Thanks.
Ill be buried in this rig, so no re sale for me!
My only concern is for the future needing to go back and re do something, for example if I wanted to cut the fender well higher...It it a major PITA to strip that stuff?
I suppose it doesnt really matter.
I had used it to line the exterior of my 62 and loved it. It just seems more of a commitment doing the whole interior.