Rust Oleum gets a bad rap (1 Viewer)

[NCFJ]

Rust Oleum gets a bad rap! I have used a good amount of Rust Oleum Red Oxide primer and blacks over the years. I’ve used it for the simple reason, it works. I used it on bumper, sliders, suspension components and frame. In all cases it has held up well. I used it a bunch when I lived in the Keys, to protect metal from the never ending effects of a salt water environment.

I did switch to using automotive enamel rather than using the Rust Oleum, I just got sick of defending it and explaining what makes it work so well.

Recently I had the opportunity to be media blasting the same parts from two different 80 series chassis. The part is the upper shock mounting plate for the rear axle. One was a stock OEM painted part, the other was previously stripped to bare metal, prepped, primed with red oxide and painted gray. Six or seven years ago. It sat out in the weather, had stuff stored on it.

First off, I checked out some spots that were scraped in the top of the frame from stuff stored on it. The area where the top coat and primer were scraped away was rusted but stopped dead in it’s tracks at the edge of the primer. Second was how easy the OEM paint blasted off but the Rust Oleum paint took 2-3 times the time to clean the same part. The rest of the frame looks just fine.


Just a little information from a practical use position. Your results may vary, this is OPINION based on observation and use in varying conditions.

 

[Cruiserhaven]

Rust Oleum gets a bad rap! I have used a good amount of Rust Oleum Red Oxide primer and blacks over the years. I’ve used it for the simple reason, it works. I used it on bumper, sliders, suspension components and frame. In all cases it has held up well. I used it a bunch when I lived in the Keys, to protect metal from the never ending effects of a salt water environment.

I did switch to using automotive enamel rather than using the Rust Oleum, I just got sick of defending it and explaining what makes it work so well.

Recently I had the opportunity to be media blasting the same parts from two different 80 series chassis. The part is the upper shock mounting plate for the rear axle. One was a stock OEM painted part, the other was previously stripped to bare metal, prepped, primed with red oxide and painted gray. Six or seven years ago. It sat out in the weather, had stuff stored on it.

First off, I checked out some spots that were scraped in the top of the frame from stuff stored on it. The area where the top coat and primer were scraped away was rusted but stopped dead in it’s tracks at the edge of the primer. Second was how easy the OEM paint blasted off but the Rust Oleum paint took 2-3 times the time to clean the same part. The rest of the frame looks just fine.


Just a little information from a practical use position. Your results may vary, this is OPINION based on observation and use in varying conditions.

Funny, I just spent my morning painting my newly fabricated sliders with the Rust Oleum auto self-etching metal primer, and will later use the auto enamel for the final coat. I looked at a variety of other options, and when it came down to it, the performance for the cost of the Rust Oleum led me to go that route. In the past I've used other more expensive options (don't even get me going on my POR15 phase), and in my opinion the performance versus cost just wasn't worth it--rust always seems to eventually come up no matter what was used and/or I need to touch-up because of trail abrasion. Given this, Rust Oleum seems to do a solid job for the money.

 

[Godwin]

For years I've been using Rustoleum Hammered paint on steel wheels and bumpers. My prep tends to be minimal, a washing of the wheel and a steel wool and carb cleaner spray down. The Hammered paints hold up very well on the wheels and bumpers and if touch up is needed the paint is generally readily available and cheap. I like the way it lays down and looks