RTT question (1 Viewer)

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FooDoo

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Jun 18, 2012
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Lurker with a question

I have a trailer that used to be the back end of an army welding truck. I have an ARB RTT and want to attach it to the roof with no rack. I'd like your thoughts on that.

The footprint of the tent would make it so I would have to put the RTT on off center. I think my only options are putting it on the back.

Do you think the ribbon on the inside of the top skin is strong enough to attach the RTT to?

Thanks for you input.

Here are some pictures:
IMG_0002.jpeg

IMG_0131.jpg

IMG_0133.jpg
IMG_0002.jpeg
IMG_0131.jpg
IMG_0133.jpg
 
I'd think those supports would be strong enough...
tho' I would likely mount the RTT in a way that
drills thru those supports and not just the skin.

I'd also try to keep the RTT mounted more towards the forward side,
then towards the rear.

the later because... when the trailer has less load then when full...
You'll want to be able to easily balance things...
and IMO it's better the tongue be a little heavier then too lite.
and ya don't want to have to add load or weight in order
to compensate for the RTT

I centered my RTT to keep a neutrality when unladen.
Tho' in retrospect... I wished I'd have placed it more forward.
 
Thanks Dell,

It looked kind of weak to me also. I'm going to try and add some supports on the inside of the trailer to give the roof some strength.

I'll just put the RTT on top of my Truck.
 
WOW. now this is a setup, yup I concur with Dell as long as the RTT is anchored thru the structural ribs it will be OK, problem here is not the tent but the weight. Probably ok kept to the minimum but once the bins are loaded, you are into the 3 to 4 ton ranger. OK for a base camp, but limited to trails. Nice setup, lets see some photos as you progress. Thanks
 
The structural ribs are hollow and they are held up by little L brackets (you can see them in the last photo). If you guys on this thread think it's strong enough then I might just put it on the trailer. The top of the trailer has a Vent cover 1' by 5' running the width. I'll mount it just in the rear of the vent and in front of the axle.

Just gonna use this thing for a base camp. Will be doing some desert camping next month in Nevada.

The rooftop tent is an ARB Simpson 3. They are expecting 75+ mph winds. I'll be covered on 3 sides by RV's. Cant find much on RTT's and strong wind.

Hopefully I will get the tent mounted by tomorrow and post pics. You guys can tell me if you think it would be strong enough.
 
FooDoo said:
The structural ribs are hollow and they are held up by little L brackets (you can see them in the last photo)
Click to expand...
to support more weight...
change the "L" brackets out for something more HD
or modify (triangulate) the original "L" brackets (welder required)

I'm not sure what the thickness is on those cross members
but the fact that they look stamped with four 90*'s
makes me think they'll be fairly strong.

since the RTT will not be laying flat, directly on the roof's surface
the load will only be at the points where the RTT is mounted.

If the RTT is mounted to just a coupla' cross members...
you just might need to reinforce those some.

If the RTT platform where laid directly to the roof surface...
the load would be spread amongst the cross members...
with the RTT's platform reinforcing that.

But you can't do that... 'cause you have a roof vent you said.

I think I might just lose that roof vent...
or relocate it.


are the edges of the cross members secured (spot welded) to the under surface of the roof ?
^ assuming those are supporting on a metal surface ?

are the inner walls all lined with plywood or something ? ceiling ?





 
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The military does not spec out junk! It is stout, Just mount the RTT with bolts through the
channel and use Nylock nuts "No protruding bolts to hit your head on". I would get some poly bushings to raise the RTT off the roof to clean under it. Very cool trailer I look forward to the build.
 
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NOh OO sounds like a trip to Burning Man. This will be THE setup if thats the case.Mark Harley has a good point, the structural is quality and mounting the RTT is only your discretion, There is not a lot of data on wind, only opinions from real owners available, Some of these guys have seen it all, some wether the guess. Remember the more aerodynamic, the lesser the wind issue. (logic i guess)
 
I would go stand on the roof...if it holds you, then you're good to go.

The roof members don't appear to be "structural" in nature, meaning they're probably fine for snow load,but I doubt I'd trust them to a 125# (min) RTT, and the occupants, plus the forces created in driving on and off road.

After looking at the box a bit, I think I'd build a frame out of uneven leg angle iron, with some 1-1/2" square tube struts welded between the angle iron. That way you could mount the tent to the frame, lift the whole mess on top, and bolt through the angle iron into the top of the box(s) where it's easy enough to reach. It probably wouldn't raise you off the roof to much(maybe 2-1/2") and would still allow water to get out and not pool up.

If balance is in the back of your mind(as it should be) I'd keep your water and batteries up front as stated earlier...that's good advice...tongue weight is your friend.

I had the same tent flipping over the back of my trailer, and loved it. Only problem is the tent was a bit too high when the annex was on, but it wasn't the end of the world. I since have gone a different direction, but it was great sleeping up there.

Good luck with the build. :beer:
 
So I tested the roof of the trailer. It is built pretty stout. I had 4 200 lb. guys on top of it.

I decided to mount it coming off the side. I ran into a problem with the trailer being 7 ft. wide. The tent was no problem. The vestibule was unusable in a position because of the attachment points.

I decided that for this one trip I would put it on the back so I can use the vestibule. I will take everyones advice and front load the tongue.

I did run some 2" square tubing down the length of the trailer. I tied it into 5 of the ribs.

Will post some pictures Soon.

Thanks all for the input.
 
Nice work FooDoo!! Are you going to bring that beast to Kennedy?? Maybe set up a bar inside? Poker? You need to come up and take a look at my trailer ideas. Reading some of these posts, it gives me (and my welder) a few ideas to help you out with your annex delema, and I have some goodies for you (who doesnt like free stuff?)

I am done with the State fair now so I have my days off back.
 
It is a Beast! Yes I will be bringing it. Hopefully with a jockey box set up, lights and Battery set up with solar charge. I'm gonna buy a nose box for the battery and leveling jacks this week.
 
Go to Harbor Frieght for the nose box....they have a nice one for around 120. As far as the leveling jacks.....Hold off if you can, I can show you how to make some that wont cost much more than 15 bucks worth of steel and misc nuts/bolts and a ratchet strap.
 
I used a pair of 5000lb side crank tongue jacks mounted aft of the rear axle on my T73. When I am on the road, the jacks are stowed in the trailer, and taken out to level the trailer on uneven terrain or when I need to change out a wheel/tire.

I can post pics of the design if you would like.
 
FlyFishJeep- thanks for the pics. It looks pretty solid.

Corprin- I was looking into side crank tongue jacks as well. That may be the better idea on uneven terrain. I'd like to see pics if you have them.
 
FooDoo said:
Corprin- I was looking into side crank tongue jacks as well. That may be the better idea on uneven terrain. I'd like to see pics if you have them.
Click to expand...

I have two of these mounted between the fender and taillight assy. They come with the weldable stub, and the mounting pin.

IMG_0331.jpg


The proximity of the trailer's hard parts and crank handle prevented me from mounting the legs directly to the frame. Replaced the crank with a 1/2x5" bolt which can be driven by power driver, socket wrench, or even the factory lug wrench from the XJ (both are 19mm or 3/4")

IMG_0343.jpg


I have 15" of stroke :)eek:) with only ~4" needed to get the legs to the ground. This allows me to level the trailer/tent on fairly uneven ground, more so with some 2x12 boards I carry to prevent the legs from digging in soft ground.

I have plenty of lift to get the trailer leveled, or high enough to change out a flat.

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I do notice some minor wobble on the jacks, just because of the play in the stubs/pins. I hooked a small ratchet strap between the lower legs and cranked it down, this helped pull that slop out. The wobble is not very noticeable when in the tent, and the legs were really meant for lifting/leveling, and preventing the trailer from tipping back when off the truck. As you can see from the pics, I can use the truck or front landing leg as my front point of contact.
 
Coprin,
That looks like a sturdy set up! Thanks for the pics. My trailer is a bit heavier that the M101's. Your set up might do the trick.
 
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