RTH- P1613, P1614, P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, P0102 SOLVED

[empty80]

All,

I have no clue what happened. I drove 120 miles to work this morning, and parked. A couple of hours later when departing, truck went into limp mode.

I conducted a fuel transfer in route.

I have opened and retightened the fuel cap.

I cleared the codes, and they returned. I disconnected the battery, and they returned.

I have verified the wiring for the MAF is in good shape, and the intake is still in place and snug.

 

[CruiserFan88]

Put in "secondary air" in the search field and a few threads come up covering the Secondary Air System and various codes that trip it.

You may or may not have an actual problem with your system. I had P2442 come up a while back which got me familiar with all this. Granted your code is not the same one, but the system in question is.

I replaced the gas cap and got the Hewitt Bypass II Kit, just in case. I have not seen the code in at least a month. Not sure if it was a fluke or not but I have NOT needed to install the bypass kit yet. Others have had success with it and from what I've seen and read its the most cost effective resolution if you are out of warranty and are coming out of pocket.

 

[JohnJB]

Check the area around your Slee compressor bracket, see this thread, specifically post #13:

Secondary Air Injection Code

forum.ih8mud.com

(I realize it might not be the ultimate problem and/or fix based on responses in that thread as AID might have simply crapped out.)

 

[empty80]

Update- I checked area around the AID there was a bit of rubbing on the AID two-wire connector. I trimmed, and repaired it. I autopsied the area affected, and it was definitely not the issue. The copper stranding was in good health.

Truck rested over night, and codes P0031, P0037, P0051, and P0057 manifested over night. It’s now running rough. I’m suspecting ECU issue or wiring issue at the firewall pass through. I won’t be able to lay my hands on the truck again until Sunday.

I don’t think it ia water related because we’ve been dry in New Mexico since the beginning of August (ish). More to follow...

 

[Sandroad]

So using the KISS approach, is there any chance this is an O2 sensor(s) failure?

 

[empty80]

So using the KISS approach, is there any chance this is an O2 sensor(s) failure?

I’m not sure. Would an O2 sensor cause a cascade of codes? This is beyond my very basic understanding of the emissions system.

 

[Sandroad]

I’m not sure. Would an O2 sensor cause a cascade of codes? This is beyond my very basic understanding of the emissions system.

I'm not sure either, but the codes in your post #4 seem to indicate that?

 

[CruiserFan88]

Emission codes can be tricky sometimes. In my experience working on Toyota’s and Honda’s pinpointing an exact code that you can trust can be difficult as related systems can trip codes that can send you on a wild goose chase. So now you got additional codes related to emissions but not related to the secondary air system codes, seems like the truck is trying to work something out. In my situation I never got these additional codes so i would speculate you may be ok on that front. In order to try and isolate a legitimate code from a false reading, I usually continually cleared codes and wait for them to return to see which ones persist.
Hopefully you dont have a random ECU issue and your harness is fine. Any chance you could have unknowingly put some real s***ty gas in the tank on the last fill-up? Also, when you say you conducted a fuel transfer does that mean you have a second tank?
Trying to be helpful but there are a lot of variables

 

[empty80]

I have taken the approach of clearing codes frequently to see what sticks, in hopes that it was a transient issue. The additions tend to be persistent now. I would be surprised to if it were a bad batch of fuel, but I don’t want to rule that out either. I always fill up at my local Costco, and have not encountered a similar issue. I do have an auxiliary tank.

I really appreciate your feedback.

Would adding 91 octane help rule that out, or would fuel treatment be the way to go?

 

[empty80]

Update- Added some Lucas fuel treatment, and now code P00B9 has been added to the growing list. This is starting to look along the lines of @CharlieS anticlimactic thriller.

 

[CruiserFan88]

So that code can result from contaminated fuel, maybe that is good news. I'm not familiar with the details of auxiliary tanks so I can't say what types of issues can arise from that type of set up. For arguments sake, was the gas transferred from the second tank old or sitting for a while? A friend of mine recently had a similar issue on his 100 series. He had burnt about 3\4 of the tank of bad gas before lights and complate shut off. Filled up with premium from Costco and a bottle of treatment solved it for him. This is what his life long service advisor recommended over the phone...hes got deep pockets.

I've had the same issue happen to me stopping at small time stations that don't move gas. All this in hopes its something simple

 

[empty80]

Culprit- Fuse EFI NO.2
Solution- Inspect and Replace

Crawling through some of the less reliable and horribly inaccurate webpages pages, I found note that the mass air flow and air injection system are tied to the same fuse, EFI NO.2. I had previously inspected the injection driver fuses, AI Driver and AI Driver 2.

I couldn’t find any corroborating evidence in GSIC, but I’m not done looking.

Pics or it didn’t happen!

 

[empty80]

The fuse treated the symptom, but it wasn’t the cure. I still have an underlying issue currently assessed as either 1) failed resistive load or 2) a short to ground. Here’s what I’ve found from looking at the wiring diagram:

The sensors attached to this circuit are:

MAF-
Sensor- OK
Sensor to chassis- OK
Connector to chassis- OK

Purge VSV-
Sensor- OK
Sensor to chassis- OK
Connector to chassis- OK


VSV (ASIC)-
Sensor- OK
Sensor to chassis- OK
Connector to chassis- OK


Heated O2 Sensor (passenger and driver side)
Sensor tested- OK
Sensor to chassis- OK
Connector to chassis- OK


O2 Sensor (passenger and driver side)
Sensor tested- OK
Sensor to chassis- OK
Connector to chassis- OK

Update- Yep. I officially have no clue.

 

[empty80]

Having ruled out a ground short in the harness and sensors yesterday, I turned some attention to the “Relay, Integration NO.2,” also known as the big dumb long thing in the fuse box that has become unobtanium in the U.S...at least for now. What I found is the battery side of the fuses measure measure as an open referenced to chassis ground. The chassis ground side of the fuses measure 40k ohms. Except for the EFI NO. 2 fuse which for me, measured 300 ohms on battery and chassis side, and 600 ohm across the fuse terminal which should have definitively measured as an open circuit.

New assessment: A short in one of the relays in the integrated relay setup. Turns out the local dealership cannot even reach out and touch one. Toyotapartsdeal.com cancelled my order an hour after I placed it because they can’t get it. Having turned to fleaBay, I found Part Souq have 8 in inventory. Since I’ve ruled ruled out ground shorts and wiring issues, I’ve got my fingers crossed it was just a failed relay. The next thing that would be called onto the carpet for examination would be the ECM, although I’m not sure the ECM itself is capable of sending a signal greater than 10 amps.

 

[empty80]

The integration relay came in today, and no joy.

I did take some more measurements today. The fuses in the red box below all measured the same as the EFI NO.2 fuse. ~300 ohm referenced to ground on both terminals. The INJ fuse also measured the same. If either of the two harness are connected, the EFI NO.2 fuse reads ~300 ohms. The majority of the wires appear to be ground wires. The yellow bars are what appear to be a common rail in the layout of that portion of the fuse box.

The crappy part of all of this is, I can’t get the ECM harness to give the same reading on the other end with all other considerations unchanged.

Has anyone dissected a fuse box yet, and have a picture of its guts? @Taco2Cruiser, @cruiseroutfit

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Sorry brother, not in a way that would help.

I’ve taken a few apart to run separate wiring into the fuse box, then added my own fuses into existing blanks. That way it looks factory seamless and super clean, but never integrating into the factory harness for reliability reasons.

One thing that I keep in mind with Toyota is it’s not uncommon for them to reverse polarity, then take a separate power source that ran from another computer and delivery that to the final ECU in that line.

I hate to mention this, ‘cause it sucks, but... if I can’t isolate the problem with one hell of a high end diagnostic tool (which almost always does it for me), then especially with emissions or electrical gremlins, I start at the beginning and “bench test” every component separately with an external power supply and make that component’s output is within factor specs. That will narrow it down to components or wiring. And when we think about many hours we can spend just playing around with a multimeter and guessing. You could just methodically work through the entire system.

All in all, I fell like I find the actual problem sooner, but it does suck to start the task. But then, you start knocking it out at a decent pace and at least you feel like you are accomplishing something.

I don’t know if that helps, I just know that it sucks what you’re dealing with it, and I wish I was closer.

 

[empty80]

Sorry brother, not in a way that would help.

I’ve taken a few apart to run separate wiring into the fuse box, then added my own fuses into existing blanks. That way it looks factory seamless and super clean, but never integrating into the factory harness for reliability reasons.

One thing that I keep in mind with Toyota is it’s not uncommon for them to reverse polarity, then take a separate power source that ran from another computer and delivery that to the final ECU in that line.

I hate to mention this, ‘cause it sucks, but... if I can’t isolate the problem with one hell of a high end diagnostic tool (which almost always does it for me), then especially with emissions or electrical gremlins, I start at the beginning and “bench test” every component separately with an external power supply and make that component’s output is within factor specs. That will narrow it down to components or wiring. And when we think about many hours we can spend just playing around with a multimeter and guessing. You could just methodically work through the entire system.

All in all, I fell like I find the actual problem sooner, but it does suck to start the task. But then, you start knocking it out at a decent pace and at least you feel like you are accomplishing something.

I don’t know if that helps, I just know that it sucks what you’re dealing with it, and I wish I was closer.

Rob, thank you for taking the time to respond. I appreciate the advice, and have been working my way through it one moment of clarity and knowledge at a time. The good news is I have until Saturday to to surrender, so I’ll keep plugging along until it’s time to button it up.

 

[empty80]

Time for an update! I dropped it off at the local Toyota store last Saturday. They had the truck most of the week, and couldn’t get the symptom to replicate. I picked the truck up Wednesday evening, drove it home and it did just fine. Started it up yesterday morning, and the check engine light was on, but not in limp mode. It went into limp mode a little later.

I got to thinking about it last night. What operates when the truck is turned off that may be tied to the emissions.

I dropped my auxiliary tank this morning, and here’s what I found:

 

[TeCKis300]

Dang! Good find. That's like looking for a needle in a hay stack. That was a s*** ton of work, but your persistence has paid off.

Has me going back to look at pics of my own install to see if I have that same vulnerability. Funny thing is I don't see a connector on mine in that position. My wire is loomed and goes all the way directly into the canister. On my '09 LX at least.

Props for sticking with it and finding the culprit. It'll likely help future people running into this problem. Should be an easy fix from here.

 

[CLHickman]

Curious if anyone of the other LRA tank owners have similar chafe in this area...Great find and I hope this clears all of your problems. For S&Gs, what does that blue wire do for that evap box?