Rough Idle / Dies at Stops / Carb Issues

[Gotrocks71]

So I bought a FJ-60 and it was running REALLY rough. I adjusted the timing (was advanced too far) and spead up the idle and now the idle is a lot better but is still a little rough.

The biggest problem is that when I slow down for a stop sign or stop light the engine dies if I'm not really careful about keeping the RPM's up. If I keep the RPM's up then it is ok but obviously I should not have to do that.

The second problem I have is that the engine surges REALLY bad if I dont put my foot on the floor when pulling away from a stop. I tried switching the vacuum advance and retard on the distributor but that just made it worse. (I was wanting to make sure the lines were in the right place.)

Last but not least, my carb choke is completly inoperative. The cable just goes into the engine bay but is not connected to anything and I cant see on the carb where it hooks up to. If someone has some pics of this, that would be great to see. The cable also just pulls out of the sleeve and I was also wondering if there is a clamp in the switch to reattach the cable or if I need to buy a new cable.

Thanks for all help,
Steve

 

[tag3]

Vaccuum leaks, had the same on my 60 for a while, tubes everywhere. Hope this helps

 

[hank14]

The best thing you can do is order the Toyota Factory Service Emissions manual and work through it front to back. If you're in California, you'll likely need the emissions system in tip-top shape.

Plan on replacing all the vacuum lines. Adjust the valves. Maybe a carburetor rebuild.

If your engine is surging, you may have a faulty or sticky EGR valve.

Search here for pictures of the choke assembly. You may need a new cable.

 

[knowaste]

Had the same problem years ago on my old 60...found the problem was a wire from the coil? to the carb was fried...not sure what the wire is for but it would kill the motor under 1,000 rpm. Check the wire off the carb and you might find it melted or cracked and I'm sure someone on here knows its true purpose.

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

The best thing you can do is order the Toyota Factory Service Emissions manual and work through it front to back. If you're in California, you'll likely need the emissions system in tip-top shape.

Plan on replacing all the vacuum lines. Adjust the valves. Maybe a carburetor rebuild.

If your engine is surging, you may have a faulty or sticky EGR valve.

Search here for pictures of the choke assembly. You may need a new cable.

hank14 is right. The emissions FSM is only about $20 and is the best money you'll ever spend on your 60 if you need to run smog legal.

Welcome to Mud!
Butt

 

[Gotrocks71]

Thanks for everyones help. So where do you pick up that emissions service manual? (Toyota Dealership???) Is there just one for all vehicles or do you get one for your specific vehicle?

Unfortunately, I am in California and I have to smog this thing just to finish the transfer. They did the transfer but they wont give me the title until it passes a smog check. It seems to be running pretty smooth except for the issues I listed so I wonder if it pass smog now.... It did actually pass in March this year.....

Does anyone have any experience with some specific vacuum lines that they have found bad to cause problems? (small ones or big ones????) Also where exactly is the EGR valve on the engine???? That makes sence that the EGR may ba causing the surging. I need to get a Haynes manuel or something..... Does anyone know where to find a FSM on the internet? I think I'm going to pull apart all the emissions this weekend and replace all the lines and clean anything out that appears to be a valve.

The best thing you can do is order the Toyota Factory Service Emissions manual and work through it front to back. If you're in California, you'll likely need the emissions system in tip-top shape.

Plan on replacing all the vacuum lines. Adjust the valves. Maybe a carburetor rebuild.

If your engine is surging, you may have a faulty or sticky EGR valve.

Search here for pictures of the choke assembly. You may need a new cable.

 

[thugmusk]

so where do you pick up that emissions service manual?

(800) 622-2033

 

[Gotrocks71]

Thanks man, ordered the emissions one and the engine one yesterday. Anyone have any additional help to offer with these issues? Has anyone else had these same problems????

Thanks,
Steve

 

[pcperks]

Wish I would have read this one sooner. I have the Emissions manual in PDF that you can download.

I'll be moving to San Diego in November and have been dealing with the emissions stuff a lot, so if you need help then just let me know.

View attachment 2F Emission Manual.pdf

 

[tigerfj60]

I have the same problem my intake vacuum leak and when I stop or hit brake the engine die.

 

[Coyote]

Bad Idle and surging

Give me a call, I'd be happy to give you some free advice! I've worked on most FJ60 problems and am always available by phone during the day.

 

[Hondo352]

Thanks man, ordered the emissions one and the engine one yesterday. Anyone have any additional help to offer with these issues? Has anyone else had these same problems????

Thanks,
Steve

I picked up an 84 fj60 two weeks ago and my carb is whistling. Checked all air lines with no result so I'm going to attempt to re-build the carb today
Good luck with your 60
John

 

[Gotrocks71]

Thanks to everyone for the help offered...

pcperks, good to hear there will be somemore FJ's in San Diego soon. Thanks for the PDF. Hit me up when you move down here.

Coyote, thank you, good to hear that some good help is at the other end of a phone call. I'll definetly be in touch soon... Gonna go through that emissions manual first and educate myself a bit ... LOL

SO.... I got the emissions manual from Toyota yesterday.... I had been looking at a few components yesterday before the manual arrived and found a few obvious issue, like check valves not working, etc.... Once I went through the manual last night though, a lot of the parts that I looked at that I thought were "OK" are pretty much toast..... LOL (like the filter looking thing, check valve, that sits just above and in front of the valve cover, no air goes though either direction) Well, gonna go out and go page by page in the emissions manual and test all the components one by one. Sounds like fun doesnt it???? Anyone wanna come help, LOL....

One thing that I'm still having trouble finding though is where how and where exactly the choke cable hooks up. I've looked through the emissions manual and I also scanned through the 2F Engine Repair Manual and I found a bunch of stuff on how to take the carb apart but nothing on where the choke actually hooks up on the outside of the carb. Anyone have any info on this???

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

Sorry I don't have a great pic and no camera access at the moment. I stole this pic from TrollHole's Cruisers Carb Install thread. Pay particular attention to the carb on the right. The carb is oriented as if you're looking at it from the cabin. Visible under the throat of the carb is the area that the nipple at the end of the cable slides into. It goes in there from the side just like if you're replacing a bike brake cable (demonstrated in the first 30 seconds if the vid below). Once the nipple is in place, the end of the cable sheath is secured in the bracket that's partially obscured in that pic by the linkage with a spring on it.

So, you'll route your choke cable from the cabin, through the firewall, and along the firewall to the passenger side. Secure the nipple, secure the sheath. Check to make sure you have full operational range of the choke (closes and opens all the way), adjust as necessary with the sheath clamp, and you're done!

Butt

 

[Gotrocks71]

AWESOME!!!!! Thank you, very much. That helped tremendously. Until you showed me I didnt see that hole where the end of the cable goes. The choke breaker diaphragm was in the way, looking from the driver side and I never saw that hole there.

OK, next question...... Does anyone know how the cable attaches to the switch on the dash? Mine is disconnected from that side too. The cable just pulls right out of the sleeve from the carb side of the sleeve. Thanks again.

 

[Gotrocks71]

UPDATE...... I figure that I'll let everyone know what I found and hopefully it will help someone else.

Today I decided would be the day I would go out and test all the emissions compoents and here is what I came up with

First I actually fixed the choke mechanism... On the switch side there is a little box that contains the switch and the cable actuation. I pulled the box apart and found that there is a very small copper disk that the cable is soldered through the middle of. My cable had pulled out of that little disk so I soldered it back in and all was good with the choke.

Next I tested the distributor vacuum advance and found that the main diaphragm would not hold vacuum. (applied vacuum with pump and then it just bleeds off to zero)

I then started testing all the compoents on the driver side of the engine. While testing the EGR Vacuum Modulator I found that the vacuum line going to the EGR valve was cracked and was causing a leak.

When I tested the High Altitude Compensation (HAC) Valve it would not hold vacuum on the diaphragm side. The HAC, "T's" off of the same line as the sub-diaphragm in the distributor vacuum advance.

SO... with a leak in the main distributor vacuum advance and a leak in the HAC that ties to the distributor sub-diaphragm vacuum advance, neither side of the vacuum advances work...

I checked the fuel cut solenoid valve and found that it doesnt work either..... Applied 12 volts, no click. In the troubleshooting section of the emissions factory service manual it says to disconnect the fuel cut solenoid and that the engine idle will become rough. No wonder why it was running rough.

Now I have a question.... While checking one of the Vacuum Switching Valves, I found that the valve was working but the electrical resistance was out of limits in accordance with the manual. The manual says the resistance should be between 38 and 43 ohms but this one was at about 330 ohms..... But it did switch back and forth like its supposed to. Should I replace it????

I also broke a Vacuum Transmitting Valve and a Vacuum Control Valve but I'm pretty sure those components worked before I broke them...

Does anyone know what sensor is on the exhaust manifold just below the rear of the carb also??? There is only one wire that goes to it but the wire is broken off and I dont know what its for. There is one wire that is broken that is in the same wire "bundle" as the fuel cut solenoid but that wire is not long enought to reach the sensor on the exhaust manifold.

Thanks again for everyones help. I hope this helps someone else as well.
Steve

 

[knowaste]

Thanks for postin the follow-up...the second wire is the temp sensor lead for the carb fan...squirrel cage on the fender well. Have seen several "dissappear" as they get incinerated by the exhaust manifold. Fan should come on after shut down for a few minutes...

 

[Gotrocks71]

Finally got it smogged.... Had to retard the timing a little and I also put some octane boost in it and just a little bit of acetone. I had looked online and found that acetone will lower the surface tension of the gasoline and will allow the fuel to atomize better. I took it to the smog place and the hydrocarbons were at about 250 parts per million and when I changed the timing and added that stuff to the tank the hydrocarbons were at about 40 parts per million.

I read online to add about 1 ounce of acetone per 10 gallons of gasoline. I put 3 ounces in a full tank of gas.

Awesome, now its time to put everything back so I have some power and also remove all the smog crap.