Rollover repair options (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Mar 18, 2005
Threads
25
Messages
141
Location
Fayetteville, NY
I recently picked-up a 1995 Cruiser that was rolled onto the D/S and roof. The truck is in very good mechanical condition (well maintained by PO) and rust free. I originally bought the truck with the idea of tansferring the locking axles to my 1997 LX along with some of the body panels to replace those with surface rust on my LX. After further assessment of the 1995 LC, it is in really good condition and I'm trying to assess whether it is feasible to repair the truck and turn it into a DD.

There is minimal damage to the D/S panels except the rear of the quarter panel and the front fender that has some pretty significant dents/creases. The most challenging repair will be the roof which is displaced approx. 2in downward on the D/S front corner and also shifted to the P/S by maybe an inch. The rear passenger doors close and the panel gaps are normal. The front P/S door is misaligned presumably by the roof panel displacement. The front D/S door is slightly twisted and therefore closes and latches with a good slam.

My question to the forum is what is the preferred method for repairing the roof ? I talked to another forum member who jacked (via a 10 ton porta-power) and straightened his roof that was crushed 6 inches. Another option is to purchase a roof from a LC supplyhouse (such as cruiserparts dot net) for $500 and replace the roof in its entirety. There appears to be some challanges with welding a new roof onto the old "A" and "B" posts due to the construction....multiple layers of folded sheet metal.

Any ideas ?

Thanks
 
Picture

Here's the damage....
resizefront.JPG
 
Here's the damage....

J, you are looking at bent A-pillars = you need a new top portion from the top of the door up if you want it to truly be structurally sound, and even then b/c that main support has been tampered with, in the event of a roll over the strength and durability will be compromised. I would stick with the 97 and use this for parts. You might find a shop that will bend it str8, but from what I've heard it's never the same. If you do end up straightening it out I would put a cage in it or some sort of reenforcement.
IMG_0960.jpg
 
My brother Brian repaired one that was pushed down more than that. It depends on your body working talent, tool collection and time that your willing to invest. Repairing the roof is a bunch of work and more are getting parted now, so if it were mine, I would look for a body shell and just replace it.

This one was repaired with zero replaced sheet metal, in a home garage and hand tools, porta-power, mig, sanders, spray gun, etc.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/56182-sunny-belly-pix.html

attachment.php
 
Wowza

I spoke to Brian last week regarding his repair...he is definately a man of talent ! I have a couple of body guys with small shops coming to look at the truck next Friday...it will be interesting to see what they have to say ! Brian estimated about 80 hours to repair his truck.....that would equate to 320 + hours for me !
 
I spoke to Brian last week regarding his repair...he is definately a man of talent ! I have a couple of body guys with small shops coming to look at the truck next Friday...it will be interesting to see what they have to say ! Brian estimated about 80 hours to repair his truck.....that would equate to 320 + hours for me !

Body replacement = about 50 hrs IMO.

Part of my decision was based on my doing all of the work, if not then doing the meticulous time consuming items that would kill your pocket if a shop did it at their $50+ rates (probably more). 80@$50 4K for a reworked body vs. 50@$50, $2500 and whatever the body runs you.

But brian is definitely talented, as that is some major work done very nicely.
 
Cruiser Parts dot net has a body shell for $1500...that and a new drivers door and I would probably in business...what's a fair estimate of the time required to "flip" a body shell ?
 
Cruiser Parts dot net has a body shell for $1500...that and a new drivers door and I would probably in business...what's a fair estimate of the time required to "flip" a body shell ?

I can tell you in a few weeks as I am getting ready to do a little surgery myself. My estimate, is that if you have all the tools and some man power (2 to 3 guys) it's a full day to get her stripped and labeled and another day to get the new body on and the truck running.

Experience has shown that the reinstall of the interior parts always seems to take some time and should be done at pace with a few step#5s :beer:. I am also throwing in a cage that will go down the A pillar through the Dash along with the possibility of some fiberglass work.

I do plan on documenting the whole process since I do not believe that there is a body swap/install thread on the board (at least I couldn't find one).

My total estimated build time with paint is 4 months, I am planning on being done with everything the weekend before memorial, God willingly in time for Rubithon w/out that last minute Rush, but that always seems to be the plan.
 
Will there be a DVD ? :D
 
Sammy, I think I would allow more than 2 days for a body swap! There are alot of bits and pieces to deal with! I would guess more like 5-10 days with a couple friends helping.
 
Forty hours is the estimate that cruiserparts dot net provided to me. I'm seriously considering a body swap for my new junk. If I do the gutting and re-installation of the interior, it may actaully be worthwhile. Keep me informed of your progress Sam !
 
Sammy, I think I would allow more than 2 days for a body swap! There are alot of bits and pieces to deal with! I would guess more like 5-10 days with a couple friends helping.

Mark...2 days to just get the old body off and the new body bolted on, definitely not including the reinstall of all the parts. I should have clarified.

On a separate note, Part of me wants to whip out the fiberglass and 1/4" bend board and just redo the whole dash and make it custom with a whole gang of switches and buttons, but that means no wheeling for a while and I want to get it dirty as fast as I can.
 
my experience with a 1992 that had some front end damage was not pleasant, it was all the little parts that added up, hell i think the blinker thing was 80 bucks alone, new of couse not sure why i went that route. but my vote would pull the drive train and use it., or start chopping the body to make it a trail basher, 36-38 tires no lift just open the fender wells and a cage, but you get the idea.
cheers
 
OK...I've pretty much convinced myself that the roof chop and replacement is the best option....Beno provided some input that the Toyota Body Manual illustrates where to cut the A/B and C posts....does anyone have the subject manual ? I would love a copy of the associated page (s). Does anyone have any helpful hints on completing the roof exchange ? First-hand experience would be great !

Any opinions on tackling this as one's first major body work experience ? I'm moderately skilled in general mechanical work...I figure if I can competently hang, tape and finish sheet rock then laying body filler shouldn't be that hard !
 
OK...I've pretty much convinced myself that the roof chop and replacement is the best option....Beno provided some input that the Toyota Body Manual illustrates where to cut the A/B and C posts....does anyone have the subject manual ? I would love a copy of the associated page (s). Does anyone have any helpful hints on completing the roof exchange ? First-hand experience would be great !

Any opinions on tackling this as one's first major body work experience ? I'm moderately skilled in general mechanical work...I figure if I can competently hang, tape and finish sheet rock then laying body filler shouldn't be that hard !

A roof swap was our first thought also, but it's not as simple as just cutting it off and welding a new one on. Your posts are pushed to passenger and nothing will lineup. Once the roof is cut, it will be much more difficult to straighten them.

The first step is to remove most of the interior and push the roof back, so the doors, windshield, etc fit, then replace the roof. It's not that bad of a deal, a pota-power, come-a-long, some ratchet straps, wood blocks to push on, etc. The plan is to slowly move it, push on the A post, move to the B, then C, measure, repeat. As things start to move, tweak, bend the doors back and stuff starts to fit. The biggest mistake most make is pushing in one spot, angle too far, once you go too for it's very hard to pull it back.

The sheet metal is stretched, as the structure comes back into place, much of the sheet metal pops back much closer to shape. Once we got to the point where the structure was straight, it wasn't looking bad and the decision was made to just straightened it and no body panels were replaced on that truck.

It's a lot of work, IMHO a body swap would be much easier. At the time when Brian did his the 80's were still selling for big $$$ and there were few in wrecking yards, etc. Now they are somewhat more common and can be had for less $$. I wouldn't pay $1500 for a shell, IIRC there is an 80 in the mud classifieds with a bad motor for $3500? If you have time, keep your eyes open and shop, you can probably find a good parts rig, close to you for the right price.

You would probably come out ahead by buying one with a bad motor, light front hit, etc, swapping parts to make one good rig, then selling the extra parts. It would be less work, cost less and probably make a better rig. If you were closer I would go in halfs with you, I would like a frame with axles to make a buggy.:hillbilly:
 
Sammy, I think I would allow more than 2 days for a body swap! There are alot of bits and pieces to deal with! I would guess more like 5-10 days with a couple friends helping.
I do this for a living, it can be done in 2 days (16 hours) by one person with the right experience and tools. Of course you need an extra hand now and then for various things.
 

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