Rivets...School me (1 Viewer)

[noahfecks]

As I get ready to skin my trailer project I am looking for a fastening solution that is strong, relatively easy, and permanent. Rivets seem like the right tool for the job, after all they hold the skins on millions of camper shells pretty well. I am guessing these rivets are a bit different from the box of aluminum pop-rivets I get at Ace and put in with a hand squeeze tool.

-Whats the difference in rivet types?
-Do I need a special tool? Harbor freight or something professional?
-What kind of space between fasteners is appropriate without overkill?
-Will a bonding agent behind the panel (body sealer, mostly to cut down on rattling) change anything in fastener selection?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge

 

[YMT]

You can get a cheap, decent quality hand rivet gun at any auto parts store or harbor freight. They will work for a single project, but if you are going to be doing a bunch of rivets or multiple projects, you could get an air riveter. Personal preference.
Spacing depends on material thickness, and it's usage. I tend to overdo it, but would suggest 3-6" spacing.
Bonding agents would be beneficial to reduce vibration, but should be supplemental to the rivets. I would highly recommend it if you are using aluminum skin on steel frame.
I match the rivet to the frame material type. I'm not a materials engineer or anything, but I worry about using aluminum rivets in steel frame due to an assumed failure of the aluminum. If using aluminum rivets in steel, you might consider going with closer spacing.

 

[Billyfj7312ht]

Although there are a lot of material finishes for rivets 99% of the market is made up of the following.

The most popular and what most would consider standard is an aluminium body with a steel mandrel (middle stem) and a dome head.
If you want something stronger (shear strength and pullout strength) you would use a steel body and a steel mandrel.

Outside these but still reasonable standard is:
All aluminium (body and mandrel) - not very strong, prone to shear off under vibration.
Stainless steel - comes with steel mandrel or stainless mandrel. - strong, good where there are corrosion problems.

As above comment though you should match the rivet to the materials you are fastening together.
I wouldn't use all aluminium rivets in this circumstance because of vibration.
My pick would be all steel (zinc plated) rivets and a bonding agent (non acidic) if it is steel sheetmetal you are using or the aluminium body steel stem rivets if it is aluminium sheeting.

Rivet sizes work in gauges - 4# rivets are 1/8" 5# rivets are 5/32" and 6# rivets are 3/16".

I would just use a pistol plyer type hand riveter because your not a production line and can take your time. 5 gauge or 6 gauge rivets spaced about a foot apart with body sealer.

Coding for rivets should be material finishes then size.
e.g:
A/S 4-4 = Aluminium body /steel stem 4 gauge - clamping thickness.
A/S 5-4 = Aluminium body /steel stem 5 gauge - clamping thickness.
A/S 6-4 = Aluminium body /steel stem 6 gauge - clamping thickness.

S/S 4-4 = Steel body / steel stem 4 gauge - clamping thickness and so on.

A/A 4-4 = Aluminium body / Aluminium stem 4 gauge - clamping thickness and so on.

Hope this helps.

Billy

 

[ntsqd]

I'd use VHB tape for the bonding agent. Research which is best for your application on 3M's page and you may find that you don't need the rivets at all! Those $1/4mil+ smooth skinned bus RV's use this tape only to get that smooth skin. The tape is the only thing that holds the skin onto the frame, and is the case of an aluminum skin and a steel frame it also stops the galvanic corrosion process. There is a grade that we use at work to hold thin stock while milling it. Have to dissolve the tape with acetone or MEK to get the part loose, but they never move until the tape is dissolved.

 

[noahfecks]

Thanks for the ideas

I think I found and oversize head S/S 6-? that will work, have to figure out the clamping depth. They will also be used to rivet on some old truck topper doors that I salvaged

I also really love the tape idea and it's not a cost prohibitive option, 3M VHB CV45F. Probably supplement with some rivets in key stress points and a 12" spread.

Please keep the ideas/info coming if you have other ideas, even if it doesn't end up being a solution for me there are lots of trailer builds going on.