Ride height with heaver bumper

[DMX84]

I got my deluxe lift kit today. I plan on installing it tomorrow. Should I start with the T bars first then the diff drop? Or does it really matter?
Thanks Jukelemon, for the great write up on this install, I’ll have it next to the ice-chest tomorrow. LOL!
Question;
I have the ARB font bumper; without the winch (for now). It caused the front end to sag, (I do not know how much, because I didn’t measure before I put it on). It looks lower in the front a good bit (It also dives down bad over any kind of speed bumps).
Form what I’ve read; the height needs to be adjusted to 1.5-2 inches with the new T-bars. But with the added weight of the ARB bumper, the T-bars will need more pre-load to achieve this lift compared to a stock bumper setup. I understand that 2 inches it still 2 inches, I’m just trying to make sure that this isn’t going to overload it or something. Would the ride comfort be affected between the these two scenarios? Landpimp mentioned how much nicer his rig rides with his lift on. So obviously this must not be of any concern. I’m just trying to get this straight in my head I guess.
Thanks,
Dean

Also, I have access to a lift. Would this make it any easier or would it just be in the way? They have a few different styles of lifts, so if you know of one that would be better than the other let me know.

 

[DMX84]

I got the front completely done yesterday in 8 hours. I decided just to use the flat stall to do the work in. The lift would have been nice for the dif drop. But it’s not bad on the floor either. It took 2.5 hours to get every thing set up (I used the air force’s auto hobby shop) and shocks replaced. It took 4 hours to do the T bars. NMuzj100 came by to look things over and just in time to help me figure out how to do the unloaded/no load markings on the frame. I guess what I ended up doing work out. I was stressed a little on the first one. It took a bunch of times to get it where I wanted it. On the other side I had a bit of trouble on the splines. I used jukelemon’s notes and cleaned them real well, when I checked for smooth fitment I found that on one end was binding up and would not allow either piece to slide on. Using a file to smooth out the bad spot took just over an hour. I would like to say it was damaged in shipment, but I could not see any damage. And it was only on one end, you would think that if it banged into the other one, than I would had the same thing twice. It appeared to be more misaligned than damaged. Using some silver anti-seize I was able to see the splines in question and smooth them out. It was only about 6 splines that were giving me trouble, but finding them was the hard part. If it were damaged/banged up, I would have been able to see the spot and got it fixed sooner.
After the T-bar ordeal the dif drop only took ~ 2 hours. I did the lift up/drop a few times to measure the final height. It was 2 inches, but the tires are loaded somewhat when you lift them that high. So after driving home I re-measured and hand only one inch of lift. I’ll correct this today.

Now that I have the front level with the rear, when I put on the rear lift kit, will it make it higher in the back again?
Is the LC supposed to be level, or racked to the front?
Dean

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Dean: Make sure you get a front end alignment ASAP. As for the rear setup, which springs did you get?

Reading this thread makes me mad. I remember writing you back in detail about these options though somehow you didn't get it. I spaced out and didn't re-write. VERY sorry Dean.

 

[DMX84]

Well I ordered 866 springs because I tow a large pop-up trailer & it made my cruiser sag in the rear, hell even my trials bike on the back made it sag (only 165lb).
But I got 865’s. Should I just use these or go for the heaver ones?
I’ll wait until I hear form you guys before I put them on.
Dean

 

[sleeoffroad]

Dean, the 100 will sit raked just like the 80. I would do the rear and then adjust the front to match (not level, probably about 1" lower). YOu need to make sure you still have down travel on the front when you set it up.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Your PM mail box was full. Here ya go:

John thanks for the info. I think I will plan on using a 33 in tire because I will need to carry the spare in the stock location. IIRC that’s the biggest size I can put underneath.

***Yes, with the hitch on, a 33-is it.

Why don’t I just go for the 863’s and not use the trim pack? Then I can use 33’s or 35’s.

***You could, though 863 W/O trim packs is still taller than a 866 with. You were concerned about rake so I'd stick with the 866.

I’m not sure if Slee has the 863’s.

***Yes. It's simply an 80 rear spring,

Is the 10mm spacer necessary or just to get a little more clearance?
Can these be purchased at any spring shop?

***It will help eliminate rear rubbing at full flex with a 33". With 33" do NOT lower your rear bump stops.

So as the front lift goes, I should determine what stock height was/supposed to be, than add the 2 inches to that number. Never mind what it is now with the heavy bumper.

***I think Slee worded it well on your thread. Finish the rear then trim the front a bit lower. I'd guess the front to be like he said, about an inch lower should do.

The part you mentioned below about going back up 2 inches confused me or something. The front is lower at stock height, and is way low with the bumper. What do you mean by going back up 2 inches because you'll be at stock angles? In my thinking I just need to crank it up 2 inches over stock, no matter what I have on for weight, IE: winch, bumper etc.

***The added weight twists the Tbars so the front end droops. This took your CV-angles opposite of what a lift does. So if you twist (lift) your Tbars back to the stock height, you're simply back to ground zero. No bad effects on CV angles bacause they're back to the same angle as before. NOW, when you twist more (lift above stock) then the lower A-arms angle down and so does the CV. Too much lift equals too low down travel and too steep a CV angle. The diff drops eliminates the CV trouble though nothing can get you back more down-travel. I'm at 2.75" above stock height and that's the max. I have JUST enough down-travel. Since you're going with 33's I'd shoot for 1.75 - 2 inches above stock.

As for trimming the look (rake), yes, you'll need to adjust those T-bars. It costs you nothing to go back up 2-inches because you'll be at stock angles (though that doesn't give you any lift). You'll actually go up more, probably 3.5" for 33's and 4.5" for 35's (or about 1.5" and 2.5" lift respectively).

I'd bet you'll need to pop out the T-bars in order to gain that adjustment

On this subject, I think the t-bars should have been angled slightly to give more adjustment, IE; all that wasted thread sticking up does not do any good. IMO, you just don’t want the adjustment part hanging down to catch on something when wheeling. I don’t know why everyone says to measure this, it really don’t matter, as long it will adjust out to the desired lift.

Ideally your adjuster should be in the center so you have maximum adjustment though it really doesn't matter. You'll have to take the bar out, Set back in 1 or 2 splines and re-adjust (probably). You'll know when the rear is done and you try to raise the front.