Reviews for TCC Rear Bumper?

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Hey all, Just curious if anyone has tried The Cruiser Company (TCC) Rear Bumper listed on long range Americas website? If so, any comments, pros/cons? If I missed the existing thread on here, please course correct me. Thanks!


 
I've not seen anyone with this one. Looks interesting, particularly how high cut it is. Immediate cons/questions it raises for me:
  • It sure looks like it would be a huge PITA to access the hitch if you tow
  • I don't see a 7-pin trailer plug relocation option
  • One photo shows rear camp lights but the wires for that seem to be hanging below the bumper
  • No pics of the mounting methods, especially at the wings. It does appear the frame mounts are gusseted, which is probably good for strength but if you plan to chop your resonator it will hang down.
  • I don't see any info about the weight of this
 
I've not seen anyone with this one. Looks interesting, particularly how high cut it is. Immediate cons/questions it raises for me:
  • It sure looks like it would be a huge PITA to access the hitch if you tow
  • I don't see a 7-pin trailer plug relocation option
  • One photo shows rear camp lights but the wires for that seem to be hanging below the bumper
  • No pics of the mounting methods, especially at the wings. It does appear the frame mounts are gusseted, which is probably good for strength but if you plan to chop your resonator it will hang down.
  • I don't see any info about the weight of this

Hey all, Just curious if anyone has tried The Cruiser Company (TCC) Rear Bumper listed on long range Americas website? If so, any comments, pros/cons? If I missed the existing thread on here, please course correct me. Thanks!


i contacted LRA and Aidan provided the enclosed link to the install instructions showing some of the technical details. i've sent him a link to this string, perhaps he will reply to your questions/post additional pictures--->

https://c86895a35860a1abe36ee1122c9...98607665625702700/200 SERIES INSTRUCTIONS.pdf
The wings have a 1/4 plate that tie into the frame infant of your flare, it mounts to the underside and side of the frame. I can text you more pictures of this. and the hitch is accessed by removing the 4x6 inch stainless plate that covers the hitch when not in use. Regards, Aidan
 
It would be impossible for me to install and remove my locking (keyed) hitch pin given that design without laying on the ground looking upward.

If you don't tow it might be fine. I tow a ton. For me it would need a wider opening in that spot so I could see in. I'm sure they made it small for strength.
 
I think the hitch access is just behind that cover plate on the center of the bumper.

7 pin relocation is a good point. Probably doable but added frustration. I'm curious how that would look with the lra40 gallon aux, which I'm doing currently.

I can deal with fixing the wiring hanging. The turn lights on my arb on the 80 series have been hanging down for years 😆.

Good point on the exhaust hanging. I don't have plans to do that at the moment. Have you done that? Better sound?

I agree, as you point out, that the weight could be considerable. It says 5mm steel which I'm guessing is the bulk of the body, which is thicker than 3/16th's.

I don't tow a ton but I do occasionally with my 80 and a 4x4labs bumper and it's a bit of a pain to get the hitch pin in but I manage. Can understand your hesitance on this if you tow a lot.

I did call long range america and had a good chat with them and got a lot of questions answered. I like the low profile look. It's reminiscent of a labs side profile to me.
 
I think the hitch access is just behind that cover plate on the center of the bumper.

7 pin relocation is a good point. Probably doable but added frustration. I'm curious how that would look with the lra40 gallon aux, which I'm doing currently.

I can deal with fixing the wiring hanging. The turn lights on my arb on the 80 series have been hanging down for years 😆.

Good point on the exhaust hanging. I don't have plans to do that at the moment. Have you done that? Better sound?

I agree, as you point out, that the weight could be considerable. It says 5mm steel which I'm guessing is the bulk of the body, which is thicker than 3/16th's.

I don't tow a ton but I do occasionally with my 80 and a 4x4labs bumper and it's a bit of a pain to get the hitch pin in but I manage. Can understand your hesitance on this if you tow a lot.

I did call long range america and had a good chat with them and got a lot of questions answered. I like the low profile look. It's reminiscent of a labs side profile to me.
i think he said the total weight is about 180 pounds. he can chime in if wrong but he did say the pallet weight for shipping was 220. i might pull the trigger on this bumper but not sure they presently have the one without the rear hoops which i don't like nor need.
 
I think the hitch access is just behind that cover plate on the center of the bumper.

7 pin relocation is a good point. Probably doable but added frustration. I'm curious how that would look with the lra40 gallon aux, which I'm doing currently.

I can deal with fixing the wiring hanging. The turn lights on my arb on the 80 series have been hanging down for years 😆.

Good point on the exhaust hanging. I don't have plans to do that at the moment. Have you done that? Better sound?

I agree, as you point out, that the weight could be considerable. It says 5mm steel which I'm guessing is the bulk of the body, which is thicker than 3/16th's.

I don't tow a ton but I do occasionally with my 80 and a 4x4labs bumper and it's a bit of a pain to get the hitch pin in but I manage. Can understand your hesitance on this if you tow a lot.

I did call long range america and had a good chat with them and got a lot of questions answered. I like the low profile look. It's reminiscent of a labs side profile to me.

Oh yeah I understand where the hitch is hidden, it's accessing the hitch pin that's the challenge. My master lock hitch pin has a keyed lock on the end. It's pretty hard to access even with a cut-out in my bumper. If I had to reach under and do it blind it would be near impossible. YMMV of course, and one that isn't locking would probably help.

I haven't cut off my resonator yet, but I plan to. Mines pretty dented and duck billed at this point. Thanks Utah.

Don't get me wrong, I do like the profile. And if it's really $2800 painted and with the swing outs and lights and what not that's a great deal... I probably spent ~$2300 on my RLC (delivered) and I had to paint it myself separately, figure out the wiring for the lights, etc.

BTW not the best shot of my bumper, but just for reference this is my cut-out. In this shot I have a D-ring which just uses a basic hitch pin and cotter safety pin, but my master lock has a key hold on the end. It's pretty hard to see even in the light when facing the bumper head-on, and I can't imagine how hard it would be if I couldn't see anything. Also note, I have about 3-4" of space between the bumper and frame cross-member and was able to relocate my 7-pin plug into my bumper, but it looks like the TCC bumper is flush with the hitch opening so that likely won't be possible. You definitely have to relocate it somewhere though or else it will be the lowest point under the truck once the spare is moved... the only thing normally protecting it is the location between the spare and the tie down point, and even then I shaved the lower lip off mine
1720475401677.png
 
on cutting the resonator...
Not much if any change in sound... I did it just for clearance..

The hitch opening does look tight, but that's my only Con with this one.. although I did not dig into details since I'm running a CBI (which is NLA)..
My 7-pin is in the stock location and so far it's been fine but I may relocate it and trim the bumper a bit.
 
Well I bought it ha. We'll see how it goes/looks/ functions.
Please update the thread with your install and/or impressions! Had my eye on this one as well and am especially curious if it could work with AHC equipped 200 series.
 
Hey Guys,

Sorry for chiming in late here. Here are a handful of detailed pictures of the rears. They are all satin black, Quarter hoops and have a double Jerry/ Propane&jerry holder and spare carrier.

- 7 pin is not relocated at this stage but I will work with TCC to make a bracket
- Rear camera relocate is not avail at this stage but working on a Jerry mount with them as an add on hopefully.
- All hardware is Grade 8 Zinc and or stainless
- Sensor knockouts are present.
- Billet swing out seats and spindle cover
- Also the powder coat is phenomenal, reminds me of old school ARBlike the old 80 front bars. I have been very impressed with the durability on my 80s armor.

As far as weight. The Bumper itself no swings is around 120-130lbs, the full kit with everything is around 180 -195 lbs.

Please let me know if you have any questions. We will have all bumpers for all cruiser in stock and rolling in as soon as we can get them.

My cell is 208-906-24 one one.

Regards,
Aidan Stott
 
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Overall, really happy with the fitment and function. Some small aspects could be improved and the correspondence with LRA was great. I'll do a follow-up/detailed post once I get the jerrycan holder installed, lights wired and license plate relocated. I think there's plenty of room to drill a hole in the bumper to relocate the 7pin plug, which I may do later on. I think relocating the reverse camera will be fairly easy as well at a later date.
 
you could use the Kaymar Camera Relocation kit, they sell that individually and require no cutting of wires to fit (you do need to drill a hole in the floor behind the drivers side rear load area trim though. It comes with an OEM type grommet.
 

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