residual valve

[mancinator]

i have a feeling this topic has been covered, and if so i apologize...i cant seem to pull up anythign recent in the search and nothign in the tech links....so here is my quick question.
i have a basic understanding of how the residual valve works on the brake system....i have a cruiser with a swapped in front axle with disks, and regular drum rears....now with the pressure that the residual valve puts out, it is causing my front disks to drag after a bit of driving after they heat up...if i toss the residual valve, will that loosen up the pressure on the front end? i have a feeling if i do that thouhg, that it will screw with the rear drums...right?
i am planning on swappign the rears to discs and upgrading the brake system as it is, but i have to get by with what i got for now...i dont want the system to fail on me...cause that woudl suck! do i even have to worry about it failign on me?
is there anything i can do to reach a happy medium between my front and rear brakes so that i dont have to worry about premature failure for at least the next two months or so?

 

[woody]

what year master are you running? single or dual circuit?

The residual valve must be removed for all disc circuits. See the tech links for pics and a writeup. It should remain in place in a drum circuit.

 

[mancinator]

i beleive it is the stock 67 master....its a tiny tiny little cylinder with a tiny little resevoir....almsot scary when you consider how much wieght that little pump has to stop. it has the single resevoir
ok, so if it has to be removed on a disc circuit, but in place in a drum...what do i do if i have both types? i am lookin for a dual resevoir master which i have seen (what are they....74 fjs and up??)....if i snag one of those i can keep the residual for the rears and pop it out for the front...right? is that the easiest, afest way to go?

 

[bad_religion_au]

that's the way to do it, is with a dual circuit master, but i don't know if they bolt up or not (someone else will)

 

[Poser]

mancinator-

You are aware that the master cylinder for a Land Cruiser that would have two circuts is used with a booster, and that the bolt pattern is different between the older master and the newer booster/master cylinder unit? Also, there is little room to clear a booster on the earlier bulkheads as the clutch master is closer to the brake master on earlier trucks, and that there is a reinforcing strip that would need to be negotiated too.

Has been done on many trucks. Wardens used to make an adapter so that a booster could be mounted to an earlier firewall without having to modify the firewall, but they closed up shop a year ago, and do not have any plans on making these any more. It would not be too tough to make, or there are other options, try the tech links, as there are write ups there as to what others have done that were in your situation...

Good luck!

-Steve


http://www.ih8mud.com/ih8mud-tech.html

 

[mancinator]

i think ill just go 4 way disc...ill eventually end up with them anyways...might as well do it right the first time.
thanx fellas

 

[beanz2]

You can buy in line residual valves from Summit Racing, Jegs, etc. Install a high pressure one for the line going to the rear and low pressure for the one to the front.

If you run no residual valves at all and have drums in the rear, your brakes will take 2-3 pumps to work.

Dave

 

[mancinator]

If you run no residual valves at all and have drums in the rear, your brakes will take 2-3 pumps to work

interesting....so if i run disc front and rear do i still need residual valves or can i eleminate them from the lines completely...??

 

[beanz2]

No. If you have 4wdb no residual valves are really needed though manufacturers do put in a lower pressure valve in line.

Dave