Requesting Suggestions for Major Tune-up Items

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Threads
73
Messages
928
Location
Tucson, AZ
I've been doing my research here, and checked my mx records at the shop yesterday. The last tune-up was four years and 24K miles ago. I can find no evidence that the dist cap, rotor and plug wires have ever been replaced (and I don't remember it).

The vehicle (FJ62 w/187K) runs pretty well, just typically sluggish accelleration, and sluggish on hills.

Here is the checklist that I'm planning to have my guy do.

Replace the following:
Plugs
Air Filter
Fuel Filter
PCV
Dist. Cap
Dist. Rotor
Plug wires
Check/set Timiing
" " Idle
Adjust valves

Any other suggestions from the gallery would be appreciated? Thanks
 
That's a good list, covers pretty much everything. Maybe run some Seafoam in the fuel system as well.

HTH-
 
Thanks, gents, for the input. I was not sure what to do, if anything, about vacuum hoses. How are hoses stocked/sold? As specific pieces or in bulk per diameter? If using bulk, I wouldn't think that would be too expensive.

I just had the BG de-carbonization/fuel system treatment done, and it did help. Is Seafoam somewhat like BG?
 
Thanks, gents, for the input. I was not sure what to do, if anything, about vacuum hoses. How are hoses stocked/sold? As specific pieces or in bulk per diameter? If using bulk, I wouldn't think that would be too expensive.

I just had the BG de-carbonization/fuel system treatment done, and it did help. Is Seafoam somewhat like BG?
i bought mine by the roll at advance. but that is exspensive
 
Thanks, gents, for the input. I was not sure what to do, if anything, about vacuum hoses. How are hoses stocked/sold?

Search Mcmaster Carr for part #'s 5041K52 or 5041K54, these should get you in the right direction. When I did mine I ordered 35 ft. of the 3mm ID hose, and 10 ft. of the 6mm ID. This was for a 2f though, not sure the amount for a 62.

I just had the BG de-carbonization/fuel system treatment done, and it did help. Is Seafoam somewhat like BG?

Yeah, pretty much... I think the BG 44k might be a bit better.
 
Last edited:
You sure you want to pay someone to do this? Everything you list is simple stuff that you should do yourself. The valve adjustment in particular will be expensive, but it's stupid easy-do it yourself.

If you really want that truck in top condition,
I would do a front axle service as well.
Also check to see that the distributor vac advance is actually working.
Change all the fluids in the truck.
Bleed/flush the brakes with fresh fluid (good time to bleed the clutch hydraulics as well).

You can get OEM vacuum hose-I used that. It comes in 1 foot lengths for about $1 or 3 foot lengths for about $10. Makes sense to use as much of the short stuff as you can.
 
Thanks again, guys.

Andrew, you make a valid point. I'm sure many of the things I could do myself with the right research, facitlities, tools, and time. Often the reason we are a bit intimidated to do something is just because it is difficult to do it that first time. For instance, I bet the distributor rotor and cap are really easy to replace, but having never seen inside or doing is the obstacle. I always have the concern that this, like many processes, are not just procedural, but have nuance to them that is essential to achieving synergy. That comes with experience.

Maybe you have motivated me and I should invest in a service manual.

I'm going to use the search to research, but was is "distributor vac advance"?

I suspect I will have to get the service manual and do my homework if I am to adjust the valves. What's involved in that? I'll look and see if it is in the FAQs. If not there, do you have a link to more info?

You can get OEM vacuum hose-I used that. It comes in 1 foot lengths for about $1 or 3 foot lengths for about $10. Makes sense to use as much of the short stuff as you can.
Great tip. Thank you.
 
Dist. cap and rotor you can't really screw up. Just a couple screws holding the cap on, and it's indexed so that you can't put it on wrong. The rotor just pulls off, the new one will just push on, and again, is also indexed so that it only goes on one way. The only thing technical there is making sure you put the plug wires back on the correct towers, as to not mix up the firing order. Just swap the caps, leaving the wires on the old one, and then do the wires one at a time. Spark plugs just unscrew, then screw the new ones in. Very little tools needed, and they are very accessible.
 
You probably can do ALL of the stuff that you listed yourself and save enough money to get some Mod for your rig. You will get to know more about your 60 and be better prepared to diagnose problems in the future if that happens. Plugs, air filter, distributor cap and rotor...even me and Forest Gump can do them. If you have trouble, post the problem and people will help you.
 
I recommend you get the factory service manual (FSM) and all the parts you need from CruiserDan at American Toyota in New Mexico. I've done tons of work on my Cruiser, including a complete engine rebuild, and CDan definately has the best prices on OEM parts. Also, the FSM is well written with lots of diagrams and is easy to follow.

If this is not your daily driver and you can afford to have it down for a few days you should do the work yourself. If you can screw in a light bulb, you can replace spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, etc. With a timing light you can check and adjust timing, with a feeler guage, screwdriver and wrench you can adjust the valves. Tracing and replacing old vacuum lines is no big deal. Changing the various fluids isn' complicated, though it can get messy. Sometimes I will just take it to a shop to avoid having to deal with the mess and disposal.

And I think for the most part the time and care you put into it will more than make up for the lack of experience. Then when you're done you'll have the pleasure of knowing your vehicle is properly maintained and will have built the confidence to tackle more advanced jobs like swapping out those worn out shocks or brake shoes.

If you get stuck or have questions, more than likely the answer will already be posted somewhere on the Mud site.

Good luck with this. Let us know how it goes.

Matt
 
Change as many vac hoses as you can stand:).

Just change them all... it is the one you don't that will come back to haunt you. The hose is cheap compared to the problem of diagnosing and finding a problem if one develops.
 
I noticed that the factory plug wires are all conveniently numbered. It is an easy task to make a quick reference drawing to document where each goes on the dist. cap. Or even a quick digital photo printed out and labled would do nicely.

Just change them all... it is the one you don't that will come back to haunt you. The hose is cheap compared to the problem of diagnosing and finding a problem if one develops.
After inspecting all the hoses yesterday, I had myself talked into not doing this. I was surprised that they seemed quite supple. The only problems I saw were a couple of hoses between the air cleaner and canister that were either loose fitting our starting to show just a little crack at the lip. It is not expensive to replace them, and they are easy to find and get to.

I have to call CruiserDan this morning to get an FSM and all the easy-to-do parts...I'll talk to him about how much vac hose of what sizes.

Speaking of FSM, is it also wise to get the emissons manual?

...the answer will already be posted somewhere on the Mud site.
It's quite amazing what you find. Yesterday in the FAQ I found a post on the cause and fix for the loose/rattling auto tranny shifter. Terrific site with a likeable personality.
 
Well, it's a done deal. I was in a bit of a hurry, so I was not able to do the work myself, but I think that next time, I might be game for a bunch of it.

What a difference it has made. It's not a hot rod, but by golly there is a big improvement to acceleration and hill climbing. Valves didn't need adjusting.

Unfortunately, next up is the front axle inner seals job.

Thanks to all who contributed.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom