Replacing OME shocks......with what?

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dnp

dnp

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I recently purchased a 2000 model 100 with a 2.5 - 3 inch lift on it (ARB 303002 torsion bars, OME 863 rear springs, and N100 / N101 Nitrocharger L shocks). Since I think OME forgot to install a rebound valve in these front shocks (any decent drop in road surface results in an immediate full extension of the front shocks), I'm trying to determine what the best replacement for these front shocks would be. I don't think my type of driving would really warrant the expense of Radflos, Kings, etc., so I'm trying to determine if there's a more "middle-of-the-road" shock that might accomplish my goal (Bilstein has a 5100 series {33-186504} that's close to what I need, but they're slightly too long. The OME front shocks are spec'd at 440mm extended and 290mm closed, so I'm trying to locate a shock that would operate in those parameters.)

I've read a mountain of previous posts, but I'm just not sure I've come up with the solution I need. Any suggestions?
 
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My experience as well- I decided to go with Radflo's in the front, but I will watch your thread to see what other much brighter members suggest. For what it's worth, I have Frankie's Gen II springs and shocks on my 80 series. That is a great ride, and the shocks look like Bilsteins.
 
lrowe_csp said:
My experience as well- I decided to go with Radflo's in the front, but I will watch your thread to see what other much brighter members suggest. For what it's worth, I have Frankie's Gen II springs and shocks on my 80 series. That is a great ride, and the shocks look like Bilsteins.
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Yeah, the Radflos would certainly work; however, based on the type of 'wheeling I do, I'm not sure I can justify their price.......
 
Did you contact OME to see if they would replace them or give you a large discount to buy another set and if they are in fact faulty....refund your money.

I have run OME and never had an issue with them as you describe.....but running Ironman now on my 100.
 
What type of wheeling is that?

Radflo has both remote res and non remote res shocks in both 2.0 and 2.5. Yes they are more expensive. But, they are rebuild-able whereas the other options are a buy and then buy again when needed...... So... in the end Radflo, kings, etc. can be cheaper in the long run.

People either have OME and love em or hate me. There are a few running Billies and I dont recall hearing anything bad about them. I dont know which ones though.

There was also the Profender shock here :https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/517499-may-have-new-shock-option-soon.html
 
sleeoffroad said:
How much is your truck lifted? Are you sure that it is not overlifted and you are hitting the bumpstop on droop?
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The lift kit was represented as being a 3" OME kit (installed by the previous owner - part numbers listed in OP), and just basing on a visual, the T-bars appear to have the proper pre-load (the rear, with 863's and BIOR bumper/rear tire carrier, appears to be in the appropriate stink bug stance).

When I push up and down on the front of the truck, it appears to be unusually mushy, and it continues to move more than expected after the pushing is stopped. The front shocks seem to have no rebound circuit at all, because the front suspension seems to have no resistance as it goes to full bump stop (and the obstacles I'm referring to are not large at ALL). Also, there's a fair amount of feedback in the steering wheel when going over RR tracks, etc., and with other cars I've had, that seems to have been a tell-tale sign of poor shocks.
 
I spoke to a guy at Walker Evans that said he could make shocks for the 100 for $175 each, add $50 if you want a reservoir. All he needs are the lengths, top and bottom sizes and mount types and he would be ready to go. If you want his contact info let me know. I know quite a few guys that run the Walkers on their FJs and love em. If the time was right I would be the guinea pig on this one.
 
Gottagetone said:
I spoke to a guy at Walker Evans that said he could make shocks for the 100 for $175 each, add $50 if you want a reservoir. All he needs are the lengths, top and bottom sizes and mount types and he would be ready to go. If you want his contact info let me know. I know quite a few guys that run the Walkers on their FJs and love em. If the time was right I would be the guinea pig on this one.
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Sure, contact info would be great!
 
I have the same lift kit and when it was first installed they over tightened the torsion bars. It gave me the same exact symptoms. Lowering the front a bit by easing the torsion bars solved the problem.
 
saillaw said:
I have the same lift kit and when it was first installed they over tightened the torsion bars. It gave me the same exact symptoms. Lowering the front a bit by easing the torsion bars solved the problem.
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Sorry can't edit this from my phone the mushy part and bounce after was not a symptom I had.
 
Gottagetone said:
I spoke to a guy at Walker Evans that said he could make shocks for the 100 for $175 each, add $50 if you want a reservoir. All he needs are the lengths, top and bottom sizes and mount types and he would be ready to go. If you want his contact info let me know. I know quite a few guys that run the Walkers on their FJs and love em. If the time was right I would be the guinea pig on this one.
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I know a couple with FJC that have them and loved them at first but now hate them as they wore out in two years....and required a rebuild. They are made to rebuild but lasted almost no time before needing it... You would think for that type of money they would last longer than cheap Walmart shocks even if offroaded which is what they are built for.

Just a thought...
 
Do you have a front bumper/winch? If not, I'm a fan of shucking out $50 for the pair of OEM's, re-installing and cranking the OEM torsion bars and calling it good... Travel is the same(-ish) unless you've changed your control arms. But I'm cheap and don't have any extra weight (except for the T3, which isn't much) up front.

:meh:
 
dnp said:
The lift kit was represented as being a 3" OME kit (installed by the previous owner - part numbers listed in OP), and just basing on a visual, the T-bars appear to have the proper pre-load (the rear, with 863's and BIOR bumper/rear tire carrier, appears to be in the appropriate stink bug stance).
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What is your center of hub to fender lip measurement?

Also, N100's was the first shocks OME put out for the 100. It was on the soft side and we also had seen failures on those. Any oil on the outside of them?

Probably N133's or the new Sport shocks would be better, unless you are hitting bumpstops. It is not uncommon for people to try and match OME863's in the rear and set it up way to high in the front.
 
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