Replacing Oil Sender - just thread locker and send it? (1 Viewer)

[TX FJ80]

Looking at FSM, pg EG-183, it appears to me there is no washer, o-ring, gasket, etc. - just some thread locker on the sender.

There's also no spec for how tight it should be (or any guidance - e.g. - turn until it seats, then apply 1/4 turn), which I found kinda strange since the FSM is usually very precise and specific about torque specs, how things must be measured, installed, etc.

I'm happy to just put some blue Loctite on it, cinch 'er down until it's tight, one ugga dugga and send it, but wanted to check with the hive mind because the FSM felt very oddly vague about this.

Thanks in advance!

 

[JoeCova]

Looking at FSM, pg EG-183, it appears to me there is no washer, o-ring, gasket, etc. - just some thread locker on the sender.

There's also no spec for how tight it should be (or any guidance - e.g. - turn until it seats, then apply 1/4 turn), which I found kinda strange since the FSM is usually very precise and specific about torque specs, how things must be measured, installed, etc.

I'm happy to just put some blue Loctite on it, cinch 'er down until it's tight, one ugga dugga and send it, but wanted to check with the hive mind because the FSM felt very oddly vague about this.

Thanks in advance!

What are you referring to? The Oil Pressure Switch? It calls for loctite 242.

 

[reklund5]

It's a tapered pipe thread. Shouldn't need any sealant. Just ~1/2 turn past snug by hand is all it takes. Use the 14mm wrench to snug it down- don't grab the can of the sender with pliers like a hack!

 

[Fj80oregon]

I have always just used a little FIPG and don’t over tighten it it’s a tapered British standard pipe thread.

 

[Malleus]

Looking at FSM, pg EG-183, it appears to me there is no washer, o-ring, gasket, etc. - just some thread locker on the sender.

There's also no spec for how tight it should be (or any guidance - e.g. - turn until it seats, then apply 1/4 turn), which I found kinda strange since the FSM is usually very precise and specific about torque specs, how things must be measured, installed, etc.

I'm happy to just put some blue Loctite on it, cinch 'er down until it's tight, one ugga dugga and send it, but wanted to check with the hive mind because the FSM felt very oddly vague about this.

Thanks in advance!

I was so impressed that someone actually read a manual and took the time to quote it, that I opened my sets(s) to find out what was required, since I have this on my to do list, and haven't looked it up yet. Imagine my surprise when none of the manuals list anything related to the oil sending unit on EG-183. What year do you have and what manual are you using?

FWIW, only the 1993-1995 manuals have "EG" sections. The 1993-1994 EG-183 are emission control, and the 1995 EG-183 is the thermostat installation.

This is what the 1995 manual says about the oil sending unit:

 

[TX FJ80]

I was so impressed that someone actually read a manual and took the time to quote it, that I opened my sets(s) to find out what was required, since I have this on my to do list, and haven't looked it up yet. Imagine my surprise when none of the manuals list anything related to the oil sending unit on EG-183. What year do you have and what manual are you using?

FWIW, only the 1993-1995 manuals have "EG" sections. The 1993-1994 EG-183 are emission control, and the 1995 EG-183 is the thermostat installation.

This is what the 1995 manual says about the oil sending unit:
View attachment 3772332

I have the 1997 L.C. Repair Manual from Specter Off-Road, RM5100.

I see the same info/graphics as you, but mine happens to be on EG-183.

I see in your sig that you have a GX460 - I recently replaced my 4Runner with a 2022 GX460 - love love love it! The V8 and the extra gear make it a much better cruiser, plus all the creature comforts don't hurt.

I'm getting my 40th AE ready for sale - it's that season in life where I need to put the project cars on hold, pair down to our drivers and focus elsewhere.

I figured that if I am going to pair down to one vehicle, a GX460 is the best blend of all the things I loved about both the 4R and the LC

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Don't overdo the sealant, the sender needs to ground to the engine block. I install dry or with just a smear of liquid thread sealant.

 

[TX FJ80]

Don't overdo the sealant, the sender needs to ground to the engine block. I install dry or with just a smear of thread sealant.

+1 @AussieHJCruza - thanks for the pro-tip!

I typically try to avoid gooping things up and take a more judicious path, but this is a great reminder. Without a good ground, there's hardly a point in replacing the sending unit.

Plan on doing this weekend - looking forward to having a less lazy oil pressure gauge in my cluster.

 

[JoeCova]

I was so impressed that someone actually read a manual and took the time to quote it, that I opened my sets(s) to find out what was required, since I have this on my to do list, and haven't looked it up yet. Imagine my surprise when none of the manuals list anything related to the oil sending unit on EG-183. What year do you have and what manual are you using?

FWIW, only the 1993-1995 manuals have "EG" sections. The 1993-1994 EG-183 are emission control, and the 1995 EG-183 is the thermostat installation.

This is what the 1995 manual says about the oil sending unit:
View attachment 3772332

lol ya I was like wtf EG-183 is like the VSV so I had to dig in the back.

 

[TX FJ80]

Easily the best thing I have done for the Cruiser since I've had it!

One job, at most.

I took off the forward heat shield for more light, but the job was easily done from underneath, no heat shield removal necessary.

If you scoot on your back under the passenger side, until your head is about even with the front axle, you are right there.

1. Look up, stick your arm in between the axle and the sway bar, pull off both leads (a center pin and a tab).
2. Next, there is a 14mm nut below the sender can - stick an open ended wrench on there, loosen, then it comes out but hand.
3. Install is the reverse - I put Loctite 242 on three threads in the center of the sender.
4. Tightness - spin it on by hand until it starts to get tight. At this point the electrical connector tab should be clocked about 90-180 degrees from where it started.
5. Use the 14mm to tighten it until the sender was snug and the electrical contacts are clocked in the right position.
6. Crack a , wait 15 minutes for the Loctite to setup, crank her over.

Having the oil pressure gauge rise to 3/4 the way up on a cold start, and then settle down to the middle mark at hot idle is a sight to behold! I know its compensated and only moderately accurate, but seeing it flirting with the red mark at hot idle always gave me a slight sense of unease.

Invest the ~30 minutes and $60 on this - you won't regret it.

Thanks for the help, fellas.