Replacing Factory Torsion Bars - Options

[YardPig]

What Options do we have for replacing the stock saggy bars? I am concerned 'upgrading' to an aftermarket bar will throw my ride quality out the window without some 'weight' on the front.
Have 860's, OEM shocks ready with a crank to retain some cushion for the wife. Stock besides 285/75/16. Always sat low on the LF.
Do we have measurements on diameter for SAW, OME, OEM Torsions?

OME, Sway-A-Way, Factory, Who Else??? EPC shows offensive factory pricing.

 

[jemsec]

Most go with Old Man Emu. Of course the ride will be a little more stiff. But isn't that what you want? If you want the factory cushion ride crank them to the proper height and go.

Torsion bars are pretty cut and dry here and suggest not making it a science.

Soft ride - Original equipment.
Stiffer and more reliable - OME for me.

 

[stinkyfj60]

I went with TJM, they were quite a bit beefier than OEM... OME and Ironman will be too...

 

[YardPig]

Thanks, not trying to make this scientific, just looking for info on diameters of bar as this effects the stiffness. No I don't want it to ride like a gravel truck which is the consensus on OME bars from a Mud search. Curious how the ride quality is with other bar manufacturers and if anyone has the diameters of those bars so I can compare to OEM diameter spec. Thanks.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

.. If you want the factory cushion ride crank them to the proper height and go..

Indeed. Most likely it's not necessary to replace them. Just crank'em back up to where they originally were.

 

[stinkyfj60]

Thanks, not trying to make this scientific, just looking for info on diameters of bar as this effects the stiffness. No I don't want it to ride like a gravel truck which is the consensus on OME bars from a Mud search. Curious how the ride quality is with other bar manufacturers and if anyone has the diameters of those bars so I can compare to OEM diameter spec. Thanks.

I don't think the bigger torsion bars will make it ride like a gravel truck. Mine rides very very well on the TJMs. Ride is more than just torsion bars or spring rates; it's that and shock tuning, tires, etc.

From what I can gather, the shocks are the culprit in the OMEs ride reputation (and the fact that people need to harden up )

I don't have a measurement for you, but here is a visual comparison: OEM on the left and the pair of TJMs on the right.

 

[hoser]

From previous notes. Accuracy not guaranteed

T-bar diameters (not diesel):
Ironman 32mm
TJM 32mm
Sway Away 31mm
OME is 30.5mm
OE standard, non-AHC 28.87mm
AHC 25.5mm

 

[YardPig]

Thanks for pics and info. Very helpful!

 

[Cruisera100]

Are the stock AHC tb's the same on each side ? what I mean is -is there left and a right TB ? Bought some new ones used ,but am unsure if there is a right and left side. Thanks

 

[agaisin]

Are the stock AHC tb's the same on each side ? what I mean is -is there left and a right TB ?

There is a different right and left part number for the tb's, here are the ahc tb part numbers:
48161-60040 (RH)
48162-60040 (LH)

Cruisera100 - was gonna reference that other thread where someone took pictures and realized you started it and got your answer already...

 

[AimCOtaco]

Just a WAG but the factory T-bars have an epoxy or similar fill between two splines so the indexing is automatic. That could be the only reason for the difference side to side in OEM's. When you re-index you chip that stuff out and at that point they may be identical from side to side. Again, not a fact just a guess. I think the aftermarket Ironman bars I'm running were not marked for L vs. R.

As stated above, if you like the factory ride and you're not heavily built then just crank the adjustment on what you have if you need a little more ride height.

 

[Rover4]

As previously mentioned, it’s not only the torsion bar’s diameter that accounts for its spring rate, but also the type of steel used and how it was treated.

Note - stiffer torsion bars installed with minimal preload will have an initial softer ride than stock torsion bars with A LOT of preload. Cranking a ton of preload into the stock bars to get that 2.5” lift will offer a miserable ride.

After asking a bunch of people, I ended up installing Ironman 4x4 torsion bars and rear springs. I paired these up with a set of Fox 2.0 shocks. I set the torsion bar preload so that I had between 2.25” and 2.5” of suspension droop. The front end felt nice on-road. Had a little more “control” than stock. But loaded up with gear and on the trail, the front end was pretty squishy and would bottom out. I ended up replacing the Fox 2.0 shocks with Icon 2.5” shocks. What a world of difference. Off road, the front end feels perfect. On road, it’s borderline too stiff, but I don’t have an aftermarket front bumper yet (nor a winch), and I’m sure that extra weight will balance things out.

Bottom line - you can still have a nice on-road ride with stiffer aftermarket torsion bars. And shocks (or the shock valving really) make all the difference.