Replaced pump diaphragm now no power

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

RufusTheDufus

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 9, 2008
Threads
180
Messages
2,818
Location
Moronville, ME
The pump diaphragm quit on the 3B in my 42. So I swapped it out. First time doing it with an engine in the vehicle. The process was fairly straightforward after reading a few threads here.

Unfortunately I can now barely make it up a moderate hill in 2nd gear at more than 20 MPH.

Is it possible to pinch the diaphragm with the spring so it doesn't open completely?

I did put a vacuum tester on the diaphragm. It's holding vacuum nicely.

I briefly pulled the vacuum signal hose from the pump and the engine RPMs increased rapidly as expected. So it seems like the spring is doing something.

I'm wondering if I have a diaphragm related problem or an EDIC relay rod adjustment issue.



Thoughts?
 
I think it's highly likely to be connected to something you did Rufus.

So if you didn't touch the EDIC rod adjustment then I think it's unlikely to be that..

Does it idle normally?

You didn't leave out the little oil drain plug (or do something else that ups the air pressure pressure on the side of the diaphragm that tends to keep the rack more towards the low-fuel end of its travel)?

Or perhaps you dropped something inside that's jamming the movement?

:beer:
 
It idles great. Rock solid and smooth.

I figured out what I did wrong. There's a "Z" shaped clip in the stack of hardware that connects to the metering rod. I put that in upside down so the long side was on top of the rod. Apparently that clip orientation will prevent the rod from delivering much fuel beyond idle range.

It's much better now. Doesn't seem to get as much fuel though. I can't get my pyro to go beyond 700 post-turbo. I'll have to tinker with the max fuel setting now.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom