Replaced my PHH...but then broke the knock sensor (cheap fix?) (1 Viewer)

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DocuDude

Took me 10 years to find this space
Joined
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Took off the PHH, boy are my arms bruised, and somehow I was careful of the knock sensor until the last little minute.
The joy of putting on the new PHH was ruined by seeing the messes up knock sensor.

My knock sensor looks like this, with the pin still sticking out the block.



And with the connector looking like this


And I found these two plastic pieces underneath my rig, so I'm guessing one or both are part of it too.

-
The plastic connector fits right onto the pin.
So is there any way to fix this with epoxy, jb weld, or something?
Reattach the connector to the pin, using adhesive to keep it on for 50k miles.

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What does the knock sensor connect to other than to the block?
All I see is the KS harness, then it is bundled in wires.

Where is the other end connected to?
 
not a cheap fix. both of mine broke when i did the engine. about $150 each :(
 
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*IF* the center pin/tab is still electrically functional, then yes, you can JB epoxy the 'top' plastic part to the base and have it all working again.

Next time, remove the knock sensor before working on the PHH... You are *NOT* the first person to break it while doing the PHH replacement...

That other plastic stuff on the ground is not from the knock sensor.

cheers,
george.
 
^x2. Ive broken several sensors and used a super glue first then JB plastic weld but you have to have metal tabs sticking up that will go back through the plastic male piece. The JB plastic weld alone will become soft from engine heat.
 
I did the same thing and super glued it. It has been on for a couple of years of abuse and it is still fine. Just make sure that you don't get grease or oil on the surfaces to be glued.
 
welcomes to the club....

crusierparts.net - got me a "slightly used" one at 1/2 the cost....
indeed looked like hell a rusty and gnarly - but worked just fine...

Bf
 
So I got the 27mm socket, and with a breaker bar I took of the knock sensor.----But the piece of the K/s that broke off, I can't remove it from the harness. I am pushing in the tabs on the side (at this point the tabs look permanently pushed in, I think?), but little crumbles of the broken plastic piece keep breaking off when I pull with the needle nose pliers. ---- Any tips on how to remove the plastic from the harness?
.
 
Forgot to add some details about the super glue/JB fix:
Do not put JB into the "cup" the tabs fit back into. The insert portion on the harness side will not slide down enough for the "catch" tab to click onto the sensor. The depth of the "cup" is exact to the insert.
Let all repair epoxy/glue fully cure before installation. Give it maybe 2 days despite what the instructions say. You don't want to rush this or you'll be doing it again. Took me 3x before I learned a little patience.
If you have any work to do near this sensor, do it now while you have the sensor out. If you break it again, you'll be doing it again (maybe 3x)
 
So I got the 27mm socket, and with a breaker bar I took of the knock sensor.----But the piece of the K/s that broke off, I can't remove it from the harness. I am pushing in the tabs on the side (at this point the tabs look permanently pushed in, I think?), but little crumbles of the broken plastic piece keep breaking off when I pull with the needle nose pliers. ---- Any tips on how to remove the plastic from the harness?
.
Use an awl/leather punch, something very small and sharp to reach through the small window around the tabs to push it out. Be very patient and work it slowly, not like high school.
 
Indeed. Patience. Surgical precision. You don't want to jack up the male connector on the wire.

At this point treat the female part from the knock sensor like cancer.

If it is not separating using picks or eyeglass screwdriver the surgically just
Begin to cut away the part - nippers razor blade scapel. Piece by piece if you have to.
Again the knock sensor female part is already toast.

Bf
 
Wait, now I'm confused. Should I be pushing on the tabs from the outside, or do stick an awl between the connected male & female pieces and pry it out?
 
I'd just bite the bullet and replace it. It would suck to have it in the back of your mind as you drive the vehicle. A piece of mind is well worth $150 IMHO.
 
Don't foul up the harness no matter what unless you want to repair it in place under the intake. Doesn't sound like fun. PM me if you break the harness connector
 
Welcome to the club! I just bit the bullet and purchased a new one as well.
 
You'll need to figure out what the release is on that connector (I can't remember). Some toyota connectors require you to push the tabs, some require you to pull on them to release.

Anyhow, a quick search for a 'replacement' finds options such as:

NEW 1993-1997 Lexus LX450 Toyota Land Cruiser Engine Knock sensor New 8961530050

cheers,
george

careful on aftermarket sensors. a lot of people have had bad luck with them. but if it works, it's an awesome deal. i just went oem so i could be done with it. after 20 years it seemed fair to just get new.
 
@NLXTACY Hah. The phh was easy, :flipoff2: it's the knock sensor breaking and being stuck in the harness...that's what that kept me up last night.

This is the point where I type, "I'm at my wits end ..." and you magically appear with the answer ("just use this tool on this part of the tabs, dummy")

*builds a time machine and pays your Filipino mechanic to do it*:rainbow:
 
careful on aftermarket sensors. a lot of people have had bad luck with them. but if it works, it's an awesome deal. i just went oem so i could be done with it. after 20 years it seemed fair to just get new.

Knock sensors are just 'microphones/piezo electric' - they listen for the knock sound. Rather a simple device, so I'd feel safe risking $30 on one.

cheers,
george
 

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